Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Blaufränkisch

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The fruity and complex Blaufränkisch, a.k.a. "Lemberger" above. Not the stinky cheese below.

The fruity and complex Blaufränkisch, a.k.a. "Lemberger" above. Not the stinky cheese below.

The latest installment of Fun To Say, Fun To Drink gives you something I have been missing since I started: a red wine! Even better, we get to make a deeper dive into Austria; the last time we drank this country up was back in April when we talked about how awesome Grüner Veltliner is. The goal with this segment is, as always, to get you to step outside of your comfort zone with something that is delicious, but maybe you were hesitant to plunk down the cash for it. Besides, when isn't it fun to check out a grape with umlauts in its name?

Let's talk about Blaufränkisch (blau-FRANK-ish). It is a red wine grape that was originally discovered in Germany back in the 1700s in the village of Limberg. This means the original name of this grape was Limberger, and is still sometimes referred to as "Lemberger" when grown in the United States. My guess is that the marketing departments of the wine world were thrilled to be able to call this grape Blaufränkisch, rather than have it associated with the stinky soft cheese (even though the wine actually predates the cheese).

Blaufränkisch (translating to "blue grape from France" from German) performs better in the warmer, more southerly region of Burgenland when compared to the northern regions like Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal that tend to be cooler and better suited for Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Blaufränkisch has deep color and substantial (but not overpowering) tannin. There is also a solid backbone of acidity to balance the tannins, and Blaufränkisch has a raspberry and cherry fruit flavor with a touch of peppery spice. The red fruit can creep into black fruit when the vines are planted on prime sites.

Not too many other countries are working with this grape variety, but Steele Wines' Shooting Star "Blue Franc" from Washington is one try for about $16. This wine shows itself with blueberry, fresh blackberry, and violets with a vanilla/baking spice finish.

It's difficult to try and map the flavor profile to a more familiar grape. I would say it can express itself similarly to an Old World Pinot Noir, but the color of Blaufränkisch is deeper. It has the acid and tannin of Syrah, but Syrah's flavors are almost exclusively "black" fruit (blackberry, black cherry). 

Really what you need to do is just get your hands on one of the three wines below (or the Shooting Star above) and go to town. 

Heinrich Burgenland Blaufränkisch ($19): Plenty of cherry fruit on the nose and palate. A little herbaceous and plenty of spiciness (think ground red pepper) on the finish. This would be a fun one to try with baby back ribs. 

Walter Glatzer Carnuntum Blaufränkisch ($19): Rosemary and black pepper complement the red and black fruit combination. Some oak aging in this one, so a little toastiness on the finish.

Prieler Blaufränkisch Johanneshohe ($25): Blackberry on the nose, but a raspberry fruit flavor on the palate. Spicy with noticeable tannins that are mellowed with some maturation in large neutral oak barrels, giving the wine a plush texture on your palate.

 

Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Albariño

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Time to get to know another grape, people! I realize I have been sticking to white wines in this lately, but it's what I have been tasting lately and the wines have been delicious. You just need to know about them.

I don't know if the sentiment has been as heavy as it has a few years ago, but there is a faction of wine drinkers who are in the ABC Club...Anything But Chardonnay. As always, I will be honest with you...I couldn't stand Chardonnay in my early wine-drinking days. My first encounter was an inexpensive California Chardonnay that was full-bodied, low in acid, and so over-oaked it was like sucking on a Werther's Original Hard Candy. No thanks...I became an ABC drinker.

Al Barino, used car salesman. 

Al Barino, used car salesman. 

Of course, over time I learned to get over this and I have styles of Chardonnay I enjoy, but there are still plenty of ABC drinkers out there. One alternative that has often been recommended for this crowd of Chardonnay-haters is Albariño (ahl-bah-REE-nyoh...not "Al Barino", who sounds like a dude trying to sell you a clunky used car). What is it about this grape that makes writers sing its praises to ABC drinkers, and why do ABC drinkers seem to enjoy it?

Albariño: the tasty Spanish white grape. Not a used car salesman.

Albariño: the tasty Spanish white grape. Not a used car salesman.

Albariño is a variety native to the Iberian Peninsula, though Spain's Galicia region is responsible for the majority of worldwide production. This is known as "Green Spain," where rainfall is higher here than any other Spanish wine zone. Albariño evolved to have thick skins to resist the potential for rotting grapes, so resulting wines can have some texture and body to it along the lines of Chardonnay. Its aromas are also more assertive than Chardonnay's, showcasing a citrus and floral component along with peaches and apricots that are more reminiscent of a dry Riesling. In fact, there is a theory that Albariño is indeed a clone of Riesling, whose name is taken from Alba (white) and Riño (from the Rhine, a major German river).

Your subzones of Rías Baixas. Image credit: Rías Baixas Wines.

Your subzones of Rías Baixas. Image credit: Rías Baixas Wines.

When Albariño was awarded DO status (a protected demonination of origin), Spanish law says you can't name a DO after a grape variety, so you find Albariño made under the name "Rías Baixas," a specific zone within the Galicia region. Within Rías Baixas, distinct "terroirs" emerged, where Albariño shows itself differently in these micro-regions within Rías Baixas. For instance, Val do Salnés is cool and wet, so a mineral and herbaceous flavor may result. Condado do Tea gets hot during the growing season, leading to fuller, softer, tropical fruit-flavored wines.

Additionally, note that Albariño is also called Alvarinho in Portugal, most notably in the wines of Vinho Verde, just over the Minho River (pictured above on the map). The Portuguese version is definitely a wine to try, and can sometimes be found for a few dollars less than the Spanish expression. Albariño's best food partners are seafood: shrimp, scallops, crab, and lobster all come to mind.

No matter which section of Iberia you choose to explore, Albariño is worth seeking out, whether you are part of the ABC crowd or not. Here's a flight of three to taste and compare if you are feeling daring!

Orowines Kentia Albariño ($14): Lemon, melons, and tropical fruits. Very fruity and balanced and a great way to introduce yourself to Albariño.

Legado del Conde Albariño ($16): Very intense grapefuit and fresh green herbs on the nose, yet fuller-bodied than the Kentia.

Aveleda Vinho Verde Alvarinho ($13): Orange and lemon zest with floral notes. Citrusy on the palate with just a touch of stone fruits and mango.

Skip The Tie. Buy Him Booze!

This Sunday marks one of the highlights of the calendar. National Turkey Lover's Day? National Go Fishing Day? Well, if you love turkey and like or want to go fishing, then yeah...you will be on Cloud Nine. No, I am referring to Father's Day. Additionally, do you know what today is? Apparently, it is National Bourbon Day. What a great time to be a whiskey-loving father!

Yawn. Can I drink this?

Yawn. Can I drink this?

You may be looking for a gift for dear old Dad this week or anyone you know who is a father. Sure, you could go with the cliché gifts, but why?

A toolbox? Guess what...I haven't a handy bone in my body.

A tie? I don't use one in the wine and spirits biz. Things tend to be casual around here.

How about a service, like mowing the lawn or washing the car? Cute, but the grass and the car will be in worse shape that it was before.

Nah. Assuming dad likes a good adult beverage, skip all that stuff and buy him booze! You are in luck, good Father's Day gift shopper. You have more options at your disposal than ever before. I something interesting today when tasting products with Berkshire Mountain Distillers: they received the 50th distillery permit in the country back in 2007. Today, there are over 1,300 permits. Craft spirit fans rejoice!

What about wine? There's a style for everyone. White, pink, or red? Sparkling? New World or Old World? Perhaps Dad is also a cigar-lover and would enjoy some Port, Sherry, or Madeira along with a stogie. I also know if I see my father, I can walk in with a bottle of red wine and everyone will be happy. In fact...red wine is required prior to entry of my parents' house, or I get sent away.

Of course, you have beers, too. There are over 5,300 breweries in the U.S. alone. Europe has about as many, too. So many choices available to you!

This isn't a comprehensive buying guide, but here are some brews, wines, and spirits that I enjoy personally or have brought as gifts before. Any of the following would make a fine choice for the old man, with some emphasis on Bourbon for spirits. To all the dads out there, have a great day this Sunday and keep kicking ass in the parenting department! Your family will (hopefully) reward your efforts with something below.

Two Roads Brewing Rye 95 Tripel Blonde Ale ($10/4-pack): Fruity, hoppy, spicy, complex, and rich. It may not be an ideal drink for the summer, but it does taste fantastic. At 9.5% abv, it's a beast, but after a long day for Pops it can be very satisfying.

Goose Island Sofie Saison ($12/4-pack): This Belgian-Style Ale takes 20% of the beer and ages it in wine barrels with citrus peels. Golden in color, peppery, citrusy, and lively. It's a great way to treat Dad.

Ventisquero Grey Glacier Single Block Red Blend ($25): I remember how good the Single Block series is when Ventisquero's wines were presented in the classroom. This is a red blend of Garnacha (Grenache), Cariñena (Carignan), and Mataro (Mourvèdre) that is big and bold, full-bodied, and fruity. This has a surprising acidity on the finish that doesn't make this wine feel to heavy on the palate, and it is a steal at this price.

Schloss Johannisberg Riesling Grünlack (Green Seal) Spätlese ($55): If Dad is out there fishing and catching some trout, enjoying lobsters, or even sausages on Sunday, this is a killer pairing with any of those dinner options. Schloss Johannisberg is a single vineyard estate in the Rheingau region of Germany that has been making exquisite wines for 500 years. Pineapple, peach, green herbs, and a beautiful balance of acidity and sweetness make this an awesome wine to either enjoy now or let dad stick in the cellar to evolve further.

Knob Creek Single Barrel Reserve 120 Proof ($48): I really enjoy Knob Creek's flagship 100 Proof expression, but let Dad taste what their whiskey is like almost straight from the barrel. Bottled at this high proof, the Bourbon has a ton of character and fire, with toasted nuts, vanilla, caramel, and a little bit of smokiness on the finish. Get the fire pit going and grab a dram of this whiskey!

Berkshire Mountain Distillers Smoke and Peat Bourbon ($60): Out of western Massachusetts, Berkshire Mountain distills and ages all of their product on-site. This expression takes Berkshire's flagship Bourbon that was already aged four years, then ages it another six months in casks that previously held Laphroaig 10-Year Scotch Whisky. Plenty of smoke and medicinal notes from the peat, but does not overwhelm the corn-based sweetness of the Bourbon. Great for those who aren't sure if they should buy Bourbon or Scotch...this brings the best of both worlds!

 

Anything Goes: Recapping Gin Class

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You know it wasn't that long ago that I gave you an overview of what to look for with gin. I also shamelessly plugged a class that I led this past Friday, where we had a great night of education and fun. As we tasted through our lineup of gin, there seemed to be a common theme on display:

Anything goes.

That's right. Gin can show itself in a near-infinite number of ways. Sure, the foundation botanicals such as juniper will be present, but anything that grows in the ground can go into a gin. Aside botanical choices, there is an increasing number of barrel-aged gins that are on the market. Barrel choices (new, used, ones that held Sherry/Bourbon/wine, etc) further impact the flavor of your gin.

The funny thing about all of these permutations of gin is that they are generally categorized in two styles.

 

  • London Dry Gin: All flavorings must be added through redistillation of a neutral grain spirit. If this process is followed in another part of the world outside of London, it will be noted as [insert location here] Dry Gin. Examples: Tanqueray London Dry Gin, Bluecoat American Dry Gin, Bruichladdich The Botanist Scottish Dry Gin.

 

  • Distilled Gin: Flavorings may be added after the redistillation process. Examples include Hendrick's and Brockman's.

Let me share with you what we tasted on Friday. I have several here for you that are definitely worth seeking out. Sometimes the best way to get to know gin is to give them a shot. I have given you an idea of what to expect in each one.

Aviation Gin ($29): This Oregon brand works with a local spice company to source its botanical recipe. Aviation contains juniper, coriander, anise, sweet orange peel, lavender, and cardamom. With the price of Hendrick's Gin creeping up to $45, Aviation can step right in as a less expensive alternative. Even though the flavors are different from the cucumber and rose petal notes of Hendrick's, Aviation has the same softness on the palate and muted juniper flavor.

Edinburgh Seaside Gin ($39): A Scottish Dry Gin, the Seaside used to be a seasonal/specialty product. It became so popular that it ended up landing as a year-round offering in the core range of products. Aside from juniper, coriander, and cardamom, local vegetation found on the Scottish coastline is included. Scurvy grass (loaded with Vitamin C to prevent scurvy back in ye olden days), ground ivy, and bladderwrack (a seaweed that has a name that's just fun to say) are all in this gin, along with Grains of Paradise (an aromatic floral-peppercorn berry native to West Africa). Sea salt and grassiness are noticeable. Citric notes come through thanks to the scurvy grass and the coriander; Indian and Eastern European coriander can have varying levels of citrus aromas and flavors.

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Berkshire Mountain Distillers Ethereal Gin Batch 13 ($35): I always like to include a local or regional spirit in my lineups. This gin comes from western Massachusetts; the Ethereal is a varying recipe, changing with each batch's release. Throwing something like this is always fun to do as it really tests your senses. Sage, rosemary, and citrus came through in this one for me. Others noted some black licorice. A great conversation starter that would be great to break out at a party full of gin geeks like us!

St. George Spirits Botanivore ($35): For those who are fans of the pungent Tanqueray or Bombay Sapphire, this is a fantastic American take on their products. Not only does St. George capture the strong juniper nose, but the earthy angelica roots and the anise comes through cleanly, too. In addition to these botanicals, there are another sixteen in the recipe, including bay leaf, cilantro, caraway, dill, and ginger just to name a few. St. George also has two other gins: The Terroir (with lavender and herbs, very approachable) and The Dry Rye (made from a spirit based on rye instead of wheat). All three are available in a gift pack that your friendly local retailer might be able to order for you!

St. George Spirits Dry Rye Reposado ($42): Our barrel-aged example for the night. Take the Dry Rye described above, where the botanicals are simple, but assertive (juniper, citrus peels, caraway, black peppercorns). Then age in French and American oak barrels that previously held Grenache and Syrah wines. The result is a complex array of flavor; the barrel imparts just a touch of apricot and strawberry jelly to go with the botanicals, the aromatic citrusy quality of the rye, and a noticeable (but not overwhelming) woodiness. This is a great entry point for you to try a barrel-aged gin.

In Praise Of White Zinfandel

This past Saturday, I was working at the Divine Wine Emporium, leading an afternoon tasting out on the deck. After a week loaded with cool, gray, rainy days that made me want to reach for some Scotch, it was great to have a breezy, sunny day. Even better, it was great to have a gathering outside and get exploring some wines that are ideal for summer.

A decidedly American creation. Image credit: Sutter Home Winery

A decidedly American creation. Image credit: Sutter Home Winery

While we sampled a killer rosé from Chile and another from Oregon, and discussing how they compare to the pink wines of Provence, I overheard a common side conversation referring to drinking in days of yore that would go something like this:

"Remember when we used to drink White Zinfandel??"

"Oh my goodness, we used to get huge bottles of that stuff."

"You mean the sweet pink wine that comes in a box? I remember drinking that, too!"

Well, how about you? Do you remember/currently know White Zinfandel? Yes, it is a pink wine (often referred to as a "blush" rather than a rosé) with some residual sugar left behind. When White Zinfandel was produced for the first time, it was a style created by accident. Bob Trinchero of the Sutter Home Winery wanted to make his red Zinfandel (Zinfandel is indeed a red grape variety) wines stronger and more intense; Zinfandel was a grape variety in danger of being ripped out for something more commercially viable if he couldn't make the wines work. Trinchero drained some of the juice away from the skins the fermenting tank, leading to a higher ratio of skins to juice. With more of the juice touching the skins, more color, flavor, and tannin could be extracted and achieve Trinchero's desired result. The drained juice had a pink color from brief skin contact, and since Trinchero was a fan of dry French rosé, he figured this would be his interpretation of what he enjoyed so much.

Then one day in 1975, Trinchero's fermentation was "stuck," meaning the yeasts never finished converting all of the grape sugars in the juice to alcohol. So...he bottled the wine anyway, complete with residual sugar left behind and he labeled it "White Zinfandel."

Next thing you know, Sutter Home's White Zinfandel took off. Americans had a major sweet tooth back then, and this fruity-sweet wine was just what the consumer was looking for. Sales skyrocketed from 25,000 cases in 1981 to 4.5 million in 1987. Over time, the American consumer was given greater access to more styles of wines. The trend has gone toward drier, more food-friendly wines, but that hasn't prevented Sutter Home from continuing to ship north of four million cases of White Zinfandel annually.

Would you like to know a little secret? Sutter Home White Zinfandel is the first wine I ever drank. I will also bet that it was one of your first tastes of wine, too. Inexpensive and easy to knock back in your youth, it was a change of pace from cheap beer or cheap rum/vodka/whiskey/spirit of choice...for when we wanted to appear sophisticated! Pack it with a picnic lunch and you were ready to go.

Gnarled old Zinfandel vines. Image credit: Lodi Winegrape Commission

Gnarled old Zinfandel vines. Image credit: Lodi Winegrape Commission

A by-product of White Zinfandel's success was the rescuing of decades-old Zinfandel vines from being replaced. These vines don't produce a lot of fruit, but the grapes that show up are concentrated, intense, and loaded with character. In fact, consumers became curious about what a red wine made from Zinfandel tasted like. Red Zinfandel's plush texture and "fruit bomb" nature makes it a great partner for your barbecued meats.

Additionally, there are now some California wineries making dry rosé wines from Zinfandel grapes but labeling it as "White Zinfandel." The wineries are savvy...they know the name "White Zinfandel" has become a recognizable brand, but some effort has to go into conveying that the current style is one that is not sweetened by residual sugar. It's all part of making sure you are well-informed and know what to expect when you open your bottle.

White Zinfandel is a style that was the gateway wine for many a newbie and the bane of many a connoisseur. With the long Memorial Day weekend heading to the rearview mirror, it only makes sense to raise a glass to this uniquely American creation. There are not a lot of wineries making a "White Zinfandel," and those that do actually don't keep it on their shelves for long...the wines are in demand! So I have just two for you to compare side-by-side, and yes wine geeks...I am writing a tasting note for the Sutter Home wine!

Sutter Home White Zinfandel (less than $10): Depending on your market and local beverage depot's buying power, you might find this for as low as $7.99. Watermelon Jolly Ranchers, strawberry Starbursts, and cantaloupe flavors meant to be a casual picnic wine or as a match for spicy pan-Asian cuisine. Terrific choice for making a homemade Sangria.

Image credit: Broc Cellars

Image credit: Broc Cellars

Broc Cellars Sonoma County White Zinfandel ($25): Made in small quantities, this is a peppery wine with fresh strawberry and watermelon flavors. According to Broc's web site, it sells out very quickly. If you can get your hands on it, it is a great way to get acquainted with the new take on White Zinfandel.

Sangria: "The Only Acceptable Use Of Spanish Wine"

Whoa, whoa, whoa...what are you doing, Mr. Wine Expert?? Haven't you been telling us all along to explore and have an open mind about wines and spirits of the world?

Sangria: a refreshing "patio pounder" of a drink that you need this summer. Image credit: Food Network

Sangria: a refreshing "patio pounder" of a drink that you need this summer. Image credit: Food Network

Yes, I know the title of this post looks like some scorching hot take on wine, but please take note of something very important. These are not my words. This is a proclamation I have heard from some people who might be close to me say on more than one occasion. It's a pretty strong statement that reflects how some of us feel about certain types of wine that might not be our favorites. Some may not like the floral notes of Riesling. Others might be in the "ABC" (Anything But Chardonnay) crowd. Perhaps Australian Shiraz is too high in alcohol for one, while Beaujolais Nouveau is too light and candy-like for another.

Is it a fair stance to take on a wine? To those in agreement, yes. To those who love wines despised by others, of course not. But that's the beauty of the seemingly infinite styles of wine available to us today; the United States has more choices of sophisticated wines than ever. You are going to have wines that agree with your tastes and preferences, and some that you just don't care for. It applies to food, music, movies, art...whatever ignites a great sensation for you falls flat for someone else.

All of this is OK, by the way. We can go into more depth about this topic, but that's for another day. Instead, let's revisit the original statement above. What is it about some of the wines from Spain that can offend someone who would otherwise enjoy them in Sangria?

See this map? It is impossible to lump Spain into a uniform style of wine. All of the nooks and crannies throughout the country lead to a wide array of styles. Image credit: Foods & Wines From Spain

See this map? It is impossible to lump Spain into a uniform style of wine. All of the nooks and crannies throughout the country lead to a wide array of styles. Image credit: Foods & Wines From Spain

First, let's start with "Spanish wine". I have spent a lot of time helping people delineate Spain into regions rather than lump them all into a uniform style. Rioja is the wine that comes to mind for many in the U.S. as it is easily the top-selling Spanish region, with Tempranillo and Garnacha being the two main grape varieties used to make the red wines. Tempranillo can be berry-scented with some tobacco notes in its youth; with age, the tobacco gets amplified along with evolving into more leathery, meaty flavors. Garnacha (a.k.a. Grenache) is full-bodied, high in alcohol, low in acid and very fruity. When handled haphazardly in the winery or not cared for in the vineyards, wines made from Garnacha can oxidize easily, turning into flavors caramel and road tar.

So yeah...if your first experience with Spain is a poorly-made Rioja, I can see why someone might be turned off. However, those qualities that Tempranillo and Garnacha show in their youth in a soundly-produced inexpensive wine, perhaps even coming from a region outside of Rioja, are ideal for a Sangria.

Now for what Sangria is...traditionally, it's going to be a red wine with brandy and fruit added to it to make a sort of "wine punch." Easy to knock back while sitting outside on a warm summer day, the brandy and fresh fruit (strawberries, peaches, plums, oranges, and more) provide some liveliness and refreshment. White sangria can be made, too (perhaps with apples, white peaches, and a vanilla bean) using a white wine from the Rueda region of Spain; Rueda's wines are made from Verdejo, though Sauvignon Blanc is gaining more credibility here, too. There are many permutations of recipes for Sangria out there; some might include lemon juice or other fruit liqueurs. If you like bubbles, use Cava as the base wine, or use some club soda to add fizz. The possibilities are seemingly endless. Beyond that, you can also buy ready-made Sangria, but as I professed in previous cocktail posts, you will find mixing your own to be more rewarding.

So when life gives you "Spanish wine", make Sangria...even if you don't necessarily care for it. Its youthful fruitiness is a perfect base for the refreshing qualities of a good Sangria. There is no need to spend a lot of money; anything more expensive will have its subtle nuances blended away. Here are some great choices...both for drinking on their own for a casual weeknight, or for turning into Sangria.

Bodegas Breca Garnacha de Fuego ($9): Hailing from the Aragon region of Spain, this is full-bodied and packed with straightforward cherry and plum flavors. With a touch of baking spice, this is easy base material for your Sangria. If you are grilling a some red meat, this is a fine accompaniment on its own.

Bodegas Atalaya "Laya" Red Blend ($10): A blend of Garnacha and Monastrell (an intense, high-alcohol, fruity/smoky grape variety), this wine comes from the Almansa region in southeastern Spain. This has dark cherry and blackberry flavor that adds a different dimension to your Sangria. Also a good partner with smoked red meat or grilled game meat.

Bodegas Menade "Creta" Rueda Old Vines ($12): Looking for a white wine? This Verdejo-dominant wine gives you citrus and peach fruit flavor that is perfect for Sangria.

Need a way to make Sangria without a recipe? Here is a great guide for you to assemble your own. Experiment as much as possible...whether you are making Sangria, or enjoying a glass of Spanish wine on its own! If you want to explore what Spain has to offer, Wines From Spain is a great starting point.

Ask Tony: Why Is Champagne So Expensive?

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Looks like Daffy hit the jackpot. Time to go buy some Champagne!

Looks like Daffy hit the jackpot. Time to go buy some Champagne!

It's time for another installment of Ask Tony: You have questions, I (maybe) have answers.

Today's question is one that has popped up somewhat regularly dating back to my days working the sales floor in New Jersey: Why does Champagne cost so much money to buy? It's a discussion that has several layers and doesn't contain a one-word answer, but it is a fair one and deserves my time and yours.

Let's start with what Champagne is. It is a sparkling wine made according to a set of rules and standards from the Champagne region of France. Chardonnay (valued for acidity and creaminess), Pinot Noir (valued for its structure and aromatics), and Pinot Meunier (a fruity, early-ripening red wine grape suitable for the cool climate of Champagne) are the most popular choices to make Champagne, though other grape varieties are permitted. Champagne invokes an image of luxury and elegance. It is the go-to for celebrations, gifts, holidays, and more. These reasons among many others is why the folks at the Champagne Bureau are fiercely protective of the name "Champagne" and have been doing so since the onset of World War II. There is nothing like it produced anywhere in the world.

Short rant: This includes products that are labeled "California Champagne," which are not anything close to the real thing, but the name has been grandfathered by a loophole that permits the United States to use this misleading label terminology. I would like to see what would happen if a "French Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon" made it onto our shelves and see how well that goes over around here.

So why is it that when we go searching for authentic Champagne, we see price tags that start in the $30-$40 range and climb seemingly exponentially from there?

It is highly stressful being a grapegrower in Champagne.

Late spring frosts can kill buds on the vines, delaying or eliminating the ability for grapes to grow. Early fall frosts can freeze grapes on the vines, changing the composition of the grapes before they are harvested. These vineyard threats, along with a generally short growing season, makes it challenging to have optimal grapes for winemaking. A lot of hands-on care and monitoring of the vineyards is important. Additionally, if a grapegrower is selling grapes or wine to a larger Champagne brand, the pressure is on to perform, even though you can't control nature. It all costs money.

The method of making Champagne is labor intensive.

After base wine is fermented, a second fermentation takes place inside individual bottles with yeast and sugar added prior to being capped; this is what gets the bubbles inside Champagne. After this second fermentation takes place, the wine ages on the spent yeast cells (the lees) for a minimum of 18 months (many producers will go well above the minimum requirements). After that there is riddling, a technique involving a slow maneuvering of individual bottles to get the spent yeasts cells into each bottle's neck before being ejected from the bottles (called disgorgement). Most Champagne houses still employ manual labor to handle these tasks, though there are mechanized options such as a gyropalette that can handle the riddling. After disgorgement, the dosage (the sugar/wine combo that determines a Champagne's sweetness/dryness) is added before being bottled under pressure, ready to be labeled. This multistep process adds cost to the wine.

Blending is both science and art. Image credit: Marc Chauvet

Blending is both science and art. Image credit: Marc Chauvet

Larger Champagne producers often have stocks of reserve wine on hand that are blended with the most recent harvest to create a "house style" for a non-vintage Champagne. The effort of establishing how the wine of an individual vintage tastes, then seeking out the proper proportions of reserve wine to blend in is what allows your Veuve Clicquot Yellow Label or Moët & Chandon Imperial to taste the same year after year. In a way, this is how blended Scotch whisky is made; no age statement in many cases means stocks of reserve whisky of varying ages need to be on hand with newer whisky to create what Johnnie Walker Black Label tastes like you after year. If the non-vintage Champagne or the blended Scotch does not taste typical of the house style, it damages the credibility of the brand. Champagne houses will pay for the ability to keep the flagship product consistent to help develop brand loyalty.

Want a Champagne from a specific vintage? Be prepared to pay even more money. A vintage Champagne will showcase the character of an individual harvest, but that also takes away juice that could be used for the higher-volume (and more revenue-generating) non-vintage flagship product, leading the Champagne blender to have to find another source for the non-vintage expression. Additionally, vintage Champagnes are required to age on the spent yeast cells for three years, so there is greater inventory management and monitoring that takes place.

Let's also address marketing, advertising and cultural impact.

You will see pages of luxury magazines (real estate, cigars, wine and spirits, cars, etc.) devoted to landing clientele with plenty of disposable income. Cristal, Moët, Dom Perignon, and Ace of Spades have all made their way into hip-hop lyrics (go do a Google search on that for complete NSFW results). This only drives demand further and prices go up.

So what if you want to enjoy Champagne on occasion, but you don't make money hand-over-fist? Seek out some Grower Champagnes. These are individual farmers that don't sell their grapes or wine to the larger brands and produce their own Champagne from start to finish. There are limited funds for farmers to run advertising, so they rely heavily on importers and distributors to promote their products to retailers so you can have access to their Champagnes. The entry-level wines may not be markedly cheaper, but the highest-end products never get out of control (and by that, I mean you shouldn't have to reach triple digits to buy a bottle of killer bubbly).

I'll be honest...I have never been a huge Champagne consumer in my wine-drinking lifetime. All of the steps to producing Champagne made me think it was for high-maintenance, needy types with too much money and a quest to achieve status. But you know what? I eventually discovered there are just as many painstaking steps to create Scotch whisky. And Port. And Sherry. And Madeira. These are all things I enjoy. It would be hypocritical of me to bang on Champagne's meticulous nature.

When you really see what it takes to produce a bottle of Champagne, you gain perspective and appreciation for it. That's the sole purpose of this blog...to get you to open your eyes and your mind to all adult beverages. With that, raise a glass of this distinct, authentic sparkling wine sometime "just because" instead of waiting for a special occasion. The Grower Champagne link above takes care of the recommendations on what to seek out in that category, but if you want to get started with a few of the well-known brands and understand their styles, here's what to look for.

Nicolas Feuillatte Brut ($33)

A cooperative Champagne producer, Feuillatte's entry-level example is floral on the nose with a white peach and apple flavor and fresh baked bread on the finish. This makes an excellent starting point in your Champagne adventures. 

Taittinger Brut La Française ($50)

Creamy and golden with peaches, vanilla, and brioche bread flavors, the texture is enhanced by at least three years of aging on the lees. Very lively and enjoyable.

Bollinger Brut Special Cuvée ($50)

Smoky, rich, and deeply flavored, Bollinger's flagship product has baked pears, apples and roasted walnuts, with a toasty, savory finish. This has plenty of character to stand up to smoked seafood.

Gin: You Win

As a consumer of alcoholic beverages, notably in the spirits category, you are in a great position. So many of the classics are being revived thanks to the craft spirit industry combined with a new appreciation for cocktails. Rye whiskey is certainly one of them as the style was on life support as recently as twenty years ago. Tequila has re-emerged thanks to the popularity of margaritas. But perhaps no spirit has seen the benefit of the craft spirits industry and cocktails more than gin.

Gin: not just a card game played by Bugs Bunny and Yosemite Sam

Gin: not just a card game played by Bugs Bunny and Yosemite Sam

Gin started out, like the majority of spirits, as a way to cure various ailments of post-Renaissance era Europe. The juniper berry, the main (and most distinct) flavor and aroma of gin, was thought to help with stomach issues and also help fend off the pestilence known as Black Death. Juniper-based tonics were thought to originate in Holland, but when William of Orange took the throne of England in 1689 its popularity spread throughout the country. Since his first point of order was to declare war on France, brandy was no longer available. To find a new source of revenue, William encouraged distillation, production, and sale of gin. By the way...William allowed anyone on the street to do this.

The guy responsible for the Gin Craze in England, for better or worse.

The guy responsible for the Gin Craze in England, for better or worse.

As a result, 12 million liters of product was being distilled in London alone, a city with a population of 600,000 people. Think about that for a minute. There was half a liter of gin for every man, woman, and child (yes, child) to consume each week! Gin took over London in a negative way, with criminal activity, lack of economic growth (since everyone was hammered on gin and not working at their jobs), and overall chaos consuming the city. Gin production was lacking so much in oversight, you had recipes that included alum, sulfuric acid, turpentine! Add a sweetener to disguise the chemicals, and you were in business!

It took a good forty years to get under control, but in 1761 government regulations made it so that the major distillers were the only ones permitted to produce gin. A dry style, the type we are familiar with today, was developed by the early 1800s. Juniper berries remained a major part of production, but other botanical elements like coriander, angelica, and orris roots became the "big four" ingredients in a wheat-based distillate in the modern style of gin. While those four ingredients formed the base of gin, today's distillers have taken some interesting alternative approaches to creating a wide range of examples that have clean flavors and intense aromatics not necessarily dominated by juniper. Citrus peels, berries, cucumbers, rose petals, cinnamon sticks, cardamom...anything from the spice rack could conceivably end up in your gin, much better than discovering turpentine in there!

For the longest time, I was not a fan of gin. Maybe I was too young the first time I tried it and I wasn't ready for the onslaught of aromatic power. Today, I couldn't be a bigger advocate of gin. Tanqueray, one of the most juniper-forward gins out there and my first sample of the spirit way back when, can be polarizing with its sharpness and piney aromatics. Some of you love it. Others can't stand it, but that leads to a thought that all gin is made in that style. Fortunately for you, the resurgence of this spirit once considered to be the scourge of London has led to some innovation where you can find a level of juniper that agrees with you. Its transparency of flavor is fantastic for cocktails. The martini is a classic (remember...if your martinis have vodka in it, those are "vodka martinis"). Gin and tonic with a lemon or lime is a simple way to enjoy it. You can go big with a French 75, where Champagne is involved in the recipe. The huge range of styles of gin as your base material combined with other mixers leads to countless permutations of cocktails. Gin is light and refreshing...perfect for the warm days we have coming up here in the northeast. Hell, if you like your gins neat, you can now find barrel-aged examples, which is a whole other animal to deal with.

Is this a comprehensive guide to gin I just presented you? No, not at all. If I get all the cocktails out there in this post, that's admittedly cutting into our future discussions. Additionally, I will be going into more details on production when I run my Gin 101 course at the Divine Wine Emporium on June 2nd, 7:00pm (how's that for a shameless plug!). I can't give away all my secrets.

What I can give you today are some gins to get started. You claim you do not like gin, but that just means you haven't found the right one yet. I am here to introduce you to some gin that will help you gain an appreciation for this flavor-packed white spirit. Gin won me over in the end, and one of these will win you over, too.

Bluecoat American Dry Gin ($27): This is an American take on the styles created by Bombay Sapphire, Tanqueray, and the like. Bluecoat, made by Philadelphia Distilling, uses juniper, coriander, angelica, and citrus peels to create a balanced, yet lively gin. This is our house gin as the price is completely reasonable when compared to the larger brands.

Hendrick's Gin ($36): This Scottish gin is infused with cucumber and rose petals after the distillation process is complete. Aside from the typical ingredients, elderflower and chamomile are part of the recipe. As a result, Hendrick's is floral with the juniper tempered on the nose. The palate is soft and gentle. This is always the gin I recommend to those who claim they don't like gin.

Brockman's Gin ($35): Another Scottish gin, Brockman's infuses blueberries, blackberries, and almonds. This is very different from the two listed above, but this fruit-forward style can be a fantastic ingredient in a cocktail like a Negroni. The strong berry notes are a nice foil to the bitterness of Campari and a great way to start a cocktail party.

Caledonia Spirits Barr Hill "Tom Cat" Barrel-Aged Gin ($50-ish)

Want to try a barrel-aged gin? This is the way to go. Caledonia uses a corn-based spirit instead of the traditional wheat for gin. The second distillation includes honey since this Vermont distiller is also a beekeeper. After just three months in barrel, the gin shows a richness on the palate that is not typical of gin thanks to the corn base and honey combination. The juniper still comes through; any more time in barrel would kill the aromas. This is a real treat...seek this one out if you are into aged spirits!

Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Gewürztraminer

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The Battle of Turckheim, Alsace, 1675. Only the beginning of the fighting in this revered territory that produces some of the most exquisite wines in the world. Image credit: Wikipedia

The Battle of Turckheim, Alsace, 1675. Only the beginning of the fighting in this revered territory that produces some of the most exquisite wines in the world. Image credit: Wikipedia

Sometimes, you need an excuse to step outside of your comfort zone. Internally, you might recognize that you need to branch out and be more adventurous in your drinking. However, it can be difficult to choose a direction, particularly if you are not familiar with some of the grape varieties available to you.

So today, I unveil the "Fun To Say, Fun To Drink" feature for you. Need a run-down of a wine grape that you might have seen on a shelf, but you were hesitant to spend the money on it? I have you covered, and the debut involves the distinct and unusual grape called Gewürztraminer.

Umm...how do you say that, and what is it?

Gewürztraminer (guh-VERTZ-trah-meen-er) is an aromatic white grape variety which, despite having a German name, has its roots in Alsace, France. If you read your history books, you will remember that this eastern section of France was fought over for many centuries, changing hands from French to German rule a number of times until the end of World War II. It's cool, yet sunny climate lets Gewürztraminer and other aromatic varieties thrive. Despite being considered a white grape, Gewürztraminer has a pink/red color to its skins. Because of that, the wines end up having a coppery hue to them.

Gewürztraminer ripening in a German vineyard. This bunch is packed with wild aromas and rich flavors.

Gewürztraminer ripening in a German vineyard. This bunch is packed with wild aromas and rich flavors.

So what does Gewürztraminer smell and taste like?

Gewürztraminer is loaded with tropical and exotic fruit, perfume, flowers, and spices; these wild flavors and aromas make sense when we find out that "Gewürztraminer" translates to "spiced traminer", where "traminer" is an ancient family of aromatic varieties that made its home in northeastern Italy's Tyrol region (near the Austrian border). When I went to school at the International Wine Center and studied the Alsace region, our instructor for the session claimed Gewürztraminer to be a "banker" grape; it's aromas are so distinct that if I encountered it on an exam, I could easily identify it and "take it to the bank" that I would be right. Guess what? So can you.

Is all Gewürztraminer the same?

Not at all. Gewürztraminer has the tendency to get high in alcohol and low in acidity, so it can have a flabby, oily texture if the grapes ripen too quickly. Underripe Gewürztraminer can be very light in flavor; I would describe that sensation of drinking rosewater or green tea. There is a wide range of expressions in between those extremes, and vineyard site selection is critical in getting the most out of this grape. Aside from Alsace, you can find Gewürztraminer from northeastern Italy, Germany, Oregon, Washington State's Columbia Valley, the Finger Lakes of New York, and even South Africa. Examples can also finish fruity (with a pleasant bitter edge), dry, or sweet (in the case of "Late Harvest" examples that turn to raisins on the vine).

So what do you have for me and what am I eating with them?

I am glad you asked! By the way, due to Gewürztraminer's fussiness and difficulty to deal with in the vineyards and winery, it is not a cheap wine. That being said, I have some reasonably-priced examples that you should be able to find at your local wine shop or beverage depot.

Montinore Estate Willamette Valley Gewürztraminer ($18)

Floral, citrusy, and gingery, this zesty example from Oregon's Montinore Estate will work great with a range of Thai or Indian dishes. A great way to get yourself familiar with Gewürztraminer for under $20.

Abbazia di Novacella Alto Adige Gewürztraminer ($25)

Fermented in stainless steel tanks, this Italian example is very lively and aromatic, but lush on the palate. It's full-bodied texture makes this great with a plate of sausages or a pasta with ground sausage, cream, and basil. The honeyed mango flavors would make this work with duck, too.

Pierre Sparr Alsace Gewürztraminer ($25)

Pierre Sparr traces its history back to the year 1680. Anise, apricots, and dried peaches show in this wine, along with a touch of residual sweetness. If you are familiar with the lychee fruit, you might detect that here, too. I would go with bacon-wrapped scallop with this one.

Pierre Sparr Alsace Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Mambourg ($40)

Pierre Sparr's Mambourg vineyard is dominated by Gewürztraminer vines, which have an average age of 40 years, leading to intense, concentrated wines. This wine is rich and full-bodied with a spectrum of dried tropical fruits, honey, and spice. If you are living it up this would be a great match with foie gras.