The Greatest Wine In The World

Everyone has something that is "the best" in their lives:

"Oh, she is my best friend."

Did you see that movie? Isn't it the best?"

"I went to this restaurant the other day, and the soup was the best!"

We do this with everyday life and when it comes to our favorite beverages it is no different. Everyone has a go-to wine, beer or spirit they would reach for every day. We also have favorites for the "what would you have with you if you were stranded on a desert island" drink. When you ask someone what his or her favorite wine is, you might get an answer that involves status, rarity or an iconic brand.

Sancerre is the best, People! The best!

However, did you know that a wine called Sancerre is indeed The Greatest Wine In The World? This is what I was told when I met The Greatest Wife In The World several years ago. Back then, I knew nothing about wine other than the fact I enjoyed knocking back magnums of reds that had pictures of critters on the bottles. The only other white wine I knew was Italian Pinot Grigio. I had no idea what to expect when I was about to taste Sancerre, a Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley of France, considered by many to be the top expression of this grape variety anywhere on the globe.

Tasting this wine with her on that day was a major personal moment. Not only did someone share her own favorite wine with me, but it opened my eyes to what serious Old World white wine tasted like. Sauvignon Blanc is a grape variety that is high in pyrazines, a chemical compound that gives many "green" flavors: bell peppers and grass are two common ones. In just the right amounts, pyrazines can add to the apple, pear, and citrus flavors inherent to Sauvignon Blanc. Coming from the village of Sancerre, Sauvignon Blanc shows a saline tang and slight smokiness (more noticeable in the neighboring town of Pouilly in their Pouilly-Fumé wines). Perhaps you might notice a wet stone character, too (if you want to go outside and lick rocks after a rainstorm be my guest, but trust me...it's not necessary). If you are into goat cheese, it is a spiritual match with Sancerre. With all of its lively acidity, and pungent aromatics, Sancerre will also taste great with seafood like sea scallops or raw oysters.

I sing the praises of Sancerre since it is The Greatest Wife In The World's birthday today. Chances are after youth baseball games and busy work day, a bottle is being opened to celebrate. If you don't want to agree with us that Sancerre is The Greatest Wine In The World...too bad! It is going to be today.

If you want to join us, I have a few to share with you below.

90+ Cellars Sancerre Lot 126 ($17): One of the easiest ways to get yourself introduced to a region you are not familiar with and/or are sticking to a budget, try examples from 90+ Cellars. This particular wine shows grapefruit, soft herbs, and lime zest flavors with just a touch of stoniness.

Domaine Durand Sancerre Réserve ($19): A small producer, Durand's old vine expressions of Sauvignon Blanc show a whole lot of character. Green apples and grapefruit combine with a minerally/rocky/chalky flavor. There's much going on in this fresh and lively wine. To experience it for under $20 is a great value to you.

Domaine de la Perrière Sancerre ($25): This producer allows the fermented wine to age three months on the spent yeast cells post-fermentation, imparting a creamy texture that balances the natural aggressiveness of Sauvignon Blanc. White peaches flavors are noticeable with lemon zest, stones and sea salt on the finish.

Have a personal favorite? Share it with me! I would love to know all about it.

Classic Cocktails: No Alterations Necessary

Let me share something with you. You know me to be a wine guy, or someone who likes to drink whiskey neat. I really enjoy those things, but we have a tradition that was built over the last few years at Castello d'Ambrosini: the Sunday four o'clock cocktail. After a beatdown of a workweek, baseball games and afterschool activities, we reward ourselves with a good pre-dinner drink and snacks. Get some music on and we are off and running. 

If you are a cocktail-lover and want to know about the classics, you better tell me why you don't have this book on your shelf.

The Best Wife In The World and I keep an eye out for interesting mixed drinks, check our favorite references, and solicit some ideas from friends. But you know what? We have a staple that we can always fall back on when we have too many options to choose from, or if we are not finding anything that jumps out at us.

"Hey, how about a Sidecar?"

According to Vintage Cocktails: Authentic Recipes and Illustrations from 1920-1960 (authored by Susan Waggoner and Robert Markel), the Sidecar came to be when a World War I officer was dropped off at his favorite drinking establishment in Paris after riding in the sidecar of a motorcycle. Feeling cold, he asked the bartender for something to warm him up, and just like that the Sidecar was born.

This is not the time to splurge for the rare Cognac. Keep it simple...and flavorful. Image credit: Liquor.com

All you need are three ingredients: your favorite brandy, Cointreau, and lemon juice. These are three items that should always be in your home bar; they are always in stock here. We use a VS-level Cognac most times; Remy Martin VSOP adds a little depth and richness. That being said, rather than use this drink to warm us up, we like it all year round. It's a lively and mouthwatering drink; right after the first sip, we are immediately looking to eat something.

If you have triple sec on hand, that's fine, but Cointreau has the magic combo of bitterness, sweetness, and smooth orangey flavor that adds a great dimension to many cocktails, including a Sidecar.

What's beautiful about the Sidecar is its straightforward simplicity. Yet there are recipes out there claiming to be Sidecars that use lime juice or sour mix in place of the lemon juice. Rum is sometimes added to the equation. Proportions are messed with that take the drink out of balance (too much lemon juice makes it overly tart, too much booze makes it overly, uh...boozy). If you want make a variant, be my guest. If you want the authentic recipe, just shake up the following ingredients into a cocktail shaker full of ice, and strain into a cocktail glass. As with all cocktails, use the best ingredients you can, but no alterations are necessary.

1.5 oz Cognac (Remy Martin or Hennessy VS work very well)

0.75 oz Cointreau

0.75 oz fresh lemon juice

Wine In The Land Of Shakespeare

From the 1936 MGM Film Romeo and Juliet

"Come, come, good wine is a good familiar creature if it be well used; exclaim no more against it."
-William Shakespeare, English poet and writer, (1564-1616) in Othello

Good wine has become good and familiar to me. I have spent the better part of the past seven years learning and tasting as much as I can so I can share it with all of you. While the quote above does not originate from a play in Shakespeare's most recognizable setting of Verona, I do feel compelled to talk to you about this romantic part of Italy. It's extra romantic to me as back when my wife and I traveled from Milan to Venice, we had no idea these vineyards existed...we just zipped right by the area.

This past Thursday night, we welcomed Iris DiCicco, Brand Ambassador for the wines of Gerardo Cesari (CHEZZ-uh-ree), to our store. Armed with great information, a delicious range of wines (priced anywhere from $10-$80 per bottle), and a giant plate of meats and cheeses from Eataly of Boston, the crowd was in for an awesome night. 

Iris DiCicco getting us familiar with the lay of the land for the vineyards that lead to some unbelievably good wines.

The city of Verona acts as a good home base for the wines of the demarcated region called Valpolicella, whose vineyards fan out to the north. Here, the red grape Corvina rules the vineyards. Its cherry flavors, high acidity, and low tannin in its simplest form makes it versatile with a range of pasta dishes and a good red for sturdy, oily fish like salmon. On the hillsides, Corvina becomes fuller, deeply colored, and more structured, which is good for meatier dishes. Corvina is joined by other local grapes like Rondinella (neutral and easy to grow) and Molinara (acidic, not required or easy to grow) to make the typical recipe for Valpolicella.

Then you have the long-lived cellar-worthy variant of Valpolicella known as Amarone della Valpolicella. To make this wine, Corvina and Rondinella are traditionally dried on straw mats for months to turn into raisins. This leads to highly-structured, rich, concentrated wines. Cesari uses a technique in silicon crates that are easy to clean, preventing potential mold growth and off-flavors to future grapes. Amarone takes its name from "amaro" meaning "bitter," likely a reference to the high level of tannin that results in the process of making this wine. All you need is a strong piece of hard cheese with a wine like this for maximum enjoyment.

One more variant of Valpolicella is Ripasso della Valpolicella. This is an old-school practice of taking the pressed grape skins left over from Amarone production and refermenting them with basic Valpolicella to add body, richness, and structure to the wine. Consider this to be a "baby Amarone" that is reasonably-priced bridge to Amarone. Ripassos are a good match with pork roasts or game birds.

While we did not taste a basic Valpolicella, we did sample a Ripasso and two Amarones, one of which came from a single vineyard. On its own, this three-wine flight would be an absolute treat. However, I have a single vineyard Corvina-only wine (designated a "Rosso Veronese") that we sampled that needs to be mentioned in this flight, so let's bring it to four wines. Get your hands on these and give them as a gift to someone you love, including yourself!

Note to my fellow wine nerds: no, I did not forget about nearby regions of Soave and Bardolino...those are wines for another day.

Cesari Ripasso della Valpolicella Superiore "Mara" ($20): "Mara" is the vineyard name, and to be named "Superiore" means the wine has to have at least a half-degree of alcohol higher than basic Valpolicella. Cherries and a rosemary/thyme scent complements a full-bodied, leathery texture.

Cesari Rosso Veronese "Jèma" ($40): This is 100% Corvina grapes, so since it is not a blend with other grapes typical of Valpolicella, this wine has a "Rosso Veronese" designation. Jèma is the vineyard name, translating to "gem," and this wine certainly is one. After 18 months in new French oak casks and six more months of bottle age before release, this wine has a perfumed violet nose with fresh black cherry, berry, and espresso flavors. Despite the initial richness and flavor intensity, it finishes light and refreshing at the end.

Cesari Amarone della Valpolicella Classico ($50): "Classico" simply means the wine is made from vineyards in the traditional heartland of production. I encourage you to pour this into the glass at least an hour before drinking to let it open up and show its true colors. The wine ages in large neutral oak casks, then 20% of it spends time in new, small barrels. Cherry and pomegrante fruit has that rosemary/thyme scent as in the "Mara" above, but a rich, chocolatey texture, which balances the high acid and tannin level. Amarone's production costs and uniqueness tend to make the wines expensive, but for $50 this is an easy way to get introduced to this style of wine.

Cesari Amarone della Valpolicella Classico "Il Bosco" ($80): This is a single vineyard Amarone expression that has many of the flavors of the wine above, but now add leather, stones, blackberry, and plum flavors. The flavors persist on the palate, and you taste and smell something different each time you go back to it. Let this one open up in the glass, too!

Wine: This Time, It's Personal

Replace all of the equations on the board with things like "Frank Brickowski wore #40 for the Milwaukee Bucks," "I was at a party with coworkers when the Packers won Super Bowl XXXI." and "Rondinella is one of the grapes that makes Amarone wines." That's basically who I am.

I am not one to brag (and this is probably less brag-worthy and more embarrassing), but I can visualize and remember what I have drank over the years. You show me a label, 99% of the time I can tell you whether I have tasted it or not. I don't need an app to do this. I just have my little brain and a few years of backed up pictures on my phone to remind of things I have sampled.

I have done this with other things, too. I can remember where I was for every NFL title game since Super Bowl XX. As a kid, I could store license plate numbers into my brain and connect them to people in my neighborhood. I could remember uniform numbers of basketball, football, and baseball players. This is probably some sort of illness I should have had checked out by a doctor a long time ago, but this is how my mental filing cabinet operates; this way of thinking likely helped me succeed in wine and spirits school.

My wine-drinking experiences are not wretched like the final installment of the Jaws series, but they are personal. Yours should be, too.

What this all comes down to is making connections to life experiences. I am hoping that most of your drinking adventures are positive. Maybe you drank a macrobrew for the first time with high school or college friends, so it holds a special place in your soul. Perhaps you ordered a bottle of wine on a first date with someone you went on to marry, and you will always remember that evening and the wine you drank with your meal. Or you went on vacation and had a killer margarita and you are spending your life trying to recreate it since it was so good!

Let's also be honest on the other side of the coin. Maybe you had a bad experience with vodka and can't touch the stuff again. Or you tasted a wine from a part of the world that just wasn't your thing and you avoid it at all costs. Unfortunately, negativity can rear its ugly head as you explore booze of the world.

Being an optimist and a professional, I build off of my good experiences and try to correct the bad ones. I have had the pleasure of drinking red wine out of jelly jars at a picnic table in a back alley outside of a restaurant in Venice. I didn't know what was in the glass, and I didn't care. I also did a tour at Castello Banfi in Tuscany and took part in a five-course wine lunch before walking through vineyards. This was as equally rewarding as drinking mystery juice up north. As for the rough experiences, well...I got over a Captain Morgan incident and learned to appreciate a wide range of rums from all over the world. The Dark and Stormy is now a summertime staple of a cocktail at Castello d'Ambrosini. Still, there is something about wine that makes me feel good. I find it to be the best combination of socialization and relaxation of all the adult beverages. Your opinion might differ and that's fine, but I have never seen anyone unhappy with a glass of wine in his or her hand. 

This Saturday will mark eleven years that I have been married to The Most Awesome Woman In The World. We have shared many great journeys involving gastronomy and delicious adult beverages together. While a beer, a cocktail, or a sip of Cognac has been something we could do independently, there is nothing like sharing a bottle of wine with one another. Today, I give you six bottles that have had a great personal impact on us; we will gladly reach for these wines when we see them again. Whether it is a general style or a specific wine, these have made lasting impressions based on our personal experiences. I hope they become a part of your positive drinking experiences, too, while you make your own personal connections.

King Estate Oregon Pinot Gris ($17): For a longtime, one of my Twitter people had championed this wine as being consistently delicious and versatile with a lot of different foods. When I bought this for the first time and brought it home, we were a very happy couple. Loaded with limes, necatarines, and tropical fruits and a zesty finish., this will always be welcome in the wine fridge. 

Sokol Blosser Evolution Oregon White Blend ($18): When we went to Disney World and I went down to the bar at the Pacific Northwest-themed Wilderness Lodge after a long day in the parks, I brought two glasses of this back to our room. A very interesting "wine stew" of nine different grape varieties with intense aromatics, lush texture, and whirlwind of flavor. You taste something different with each sip.

Pascal Jolivet Sancerre ($18): I never tasted Sancerre before meeting my wife. Sancerre is a village located in the eastern Loire Valley of France, known for steely, mouth-watering Sauvignon Blanc. The example from Jolivet shows grapefruit, fresh cut grass, and wet stone flavors. Our preferred point of origin for Sauvignon Blanc more than anywhere else in the world, and my first "wow" white wine.

Château d'Esclans Whispering Angel Côtes de Provence Rosé ($24): We honeymooned in the south of France and Provence was one of those locations. Sipping rosé with fresh fish caught that morning at a restaurant on the beach was unbelievable. The watermelon, thyme, and saline flavors of the Whispering Angel take me back to those days we spent in Provence.

E. Guigal Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($45): When we were in France, we took a day trip to Avignon. At that time, I didn't realize how close we were to the great vineyards of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, because wine was not my specialty at the time! At least I know I can bring Avignon home in some capacity with Guigal's example. Red and black berries, lush texture, and hints of lavender exemplify what Châteauneuf-du-Pape is all about.

Le Gode Brunello di Montalcino (2006 vintage, $60): We were married in 2006, and Brunello will always be special to us (my first "wow" red wine. It's the long-lived wine of Tuscany, which we experienced plenty of in our Italy trip. Sour cherries, earth, and leather are pronounced in this wine. Despite being over 10 years old, the wine is still very lively and fresh. This could keep developing in the bottle for another five years easily, and at this price it's a bargain! 

Tall Tales Of Boozery: Summer Is The Only Time For Rosé

A lot of myths are floating around out there, many of which are just trivial common misconceptions. They don't necessarily matter, but still these things are just untrue beliefs: bulls hate the color red (nope, they're color blind) and Napoleon is short (5'7" was above average height in France). Others can impact health: don't wake up a sleepwalker (no, don't let them unknowingly hurt themselves) and alcohol will "warm you up" (alcohol actually drops your core temperature). Even "Fake News" has somehow become a thing (and a rabbit hole that I am not going down here).

Then we have the inexplicable myths, and one in the adult beverage business in particular that gets to me: rosé wine is a "summer" wine. You might be saying, "Hey...aren't you the guy who just gave me whiskies to drink when the seasons change?" or "Didn't you just tell us Grüner Veltliner is a good wine for springtime?" Why dispel a myth about seasonal drinking?

Yes and yes, and I did just shamelessly redirect you to two of my other pages to remind you that I did refer to some of these items. You know what? I'm guilty as charged. I tend to fall into this seasonal pattern of drinking, but to be fair I never said it was the right way or the only way to drink.

By the way, I do understand the allure of these pink wines when it's warm outside! Rosé plays well with a lot of different foods. Rosé's fruitiness is enhanced when chilled and has a thirst-quenching quality (even if we should be hydrating with water). You can turn cheap versions into pitchers of sangria.

However, rosé wines can be seductive at Valentine's Day. They can pull the Thanksgiving table together. They can work at a cocktail party on a random Saturday in October or as a killer sparkling wine with tapas at a restaurant on a night out in January. They work with the tricky rich and salty combination of foods like baked ham or "green" foods.

I believe that this "rosé is for summer" myth sprouted once rosé from the Provence region of France became very popular. Provençal rosé is light, dry, delicate, and delicious with light appetizers, salads, and seafood...things we tend to eat more of on warm days. The Provence style is an easy crowd-pleaser as you can satisfy a range of palates for a gathering. But what if you eat light year-round? What if you are a ravenous carnivore, whether you are outside grilling or pan-searing indoors? How about those winter holiday parties? If you are anything like my family in December, you would think we have 75 people coming over. There is more than light and delicate rosé out there.

Quick educational tangent: most times rosé wine is white winemaking with red grape varieties. Gently crush grapes, let the white juice run out into a tank, allow a short period of skin contact (to achieve desired color), and drain pink juice to a stainless steel tank ready for fermentation.

So maybe it's time I re-evaluate my own wine buying and drinking choices. Who says you can't have rosé at any time of year? Now is the perfect time to get tasting all the styles of rosé wine. Your retailer is getting them in on their shelves. You can ask for something you don't see and a good shop will be able to turn your request around in a day or two (assuming the distributor has the wine in stock or available to sell in your state of residence).

Let's stop making "rosé in summer" like "don't wear white after Labor Day." Here is a recommendation for several of styles of rosé out there, including a little bubbly. Just make sure you and I keep the momentum going together through September and beyond.

Mont Marçal Cava Rosado ($18)

This is a sparkling wine made from Trepat, a red Catalan grape variety that is well-suited for rosé winemaking thanks to its berry-scented fruitiness. This example has a strawberry jam on toast flavor that would make a great counterpoint to salty-umami appetizers featuring anchovies or capers.

Domaine Houchart Côtes de Provence ($15)

A classic, moderately-priced rosé that we have consistent success with at the store. This is a traditional blend of Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, and Mourvèdre that balances fresh red berry fruit with acidity. The ruby red grapefruit note in this wine is enhanced with a green salad with a basic vinaigrette. 

Adelsheim Willamette Valley Rosé of Pinot Noir ($17)

Now we start moving into wines with more body and texture. Adelsheim makes exquisite red wines from Pinot Noir, but their rosé bursts with strawberries and nectarines. The balance of body and acidity leads to food versatility and is a great match with more substantial dishes like poached chicken, baked ham or even a roast turkey.

Domaine Bousquet Mendoza Malbec-Cabernet Rosado ($12)

Bousquet's wines come from vineyards situated at absurd altitudes (over 4,000 feet above sea level), leading to grapes with high acid and deep color. The Malbec gives soft ripe berry fruit while the Cabernet contributes lively cherry fruit. I like this with a sturdy fish, such as tuna or swordfish with soft green herbs, or roast pork.

Peter Zemmer Alto Adige Lagrein ($19)

Lagrein is a variety that thrives in the northeast of Italy, giving wines with intense violet aromatics and dark berry fruit. When made as a rosé in this example from Peter Zemmer, the flavors are more cherry and raspberry-scented with rose petals and wild herbs. There is even a slight tannic bitterness that adds to the overall flavor. Our salesperson described this as a "steak wine" and I can't say I disagree! This is a perfect rosé to enjoy with red meat.

Whisk(e)y: A Seasonal Transition Of Flavors

For the whisk(e)y drinker, we have hit a point on the calendar where you may be looking for a change. Spring is great for that; after all, the season represents rebirth and youthful exuberance. You have to see how our small shore town in southeastern Connecticut has suddenly come alive with people out walking or running much more. The raw gray days are slowly being replaced by sunny skies and gentle warmth.

Of course in other parts of the country, you guys are rocketing toward summer and might already be in a different mindset. With today's goal being to show you a way to transition from deeper, heavier winter whiskies to livelier but still flavorful versions, I may encounter a bit of a challenge in presenting something unifying. As it is, Easter Sunday will be an 80-degree outlier that is followed up by a need for a sweater in the coming days.

Additionally as we have learned here before, whisk(e)y has a wide spectrum of styles to choose from, so again seeking common ground isn't easy. However, there are a few of good rules to follow if you have an open mind and tend to be a seasonal drinker:

1. Go for younger whiskies

With Single Malt Scotch or Irish, 12 years or less is preferred, but some examples could be stretched to 15 years. Younger whiskies tend to have those fresher more vibrant flavors, like grass, flowers, heather, and fresh fruit. Peated whiskies are very pronounced, fiery, and intense on the nose. With demand continuing to skyrocket for premium aged whiskies, look for some No Age Statement single malts (many will be a combo of ages from three to ten years) or some blended whiskies (which will have lighter cereal grains or unmalted barley). 

To me, this is one reason why Bourbon is popular; Bourbon tastes really good in its youth thanks to new American oak barrels that impart a ton of flavor very quickly. The base grain of corn leads to soft whiskey with a sweet finish that makes it easy to enjoy young. The combination of these two aspects makes Bourbon taste like Bourbon!

2. Keep an eye out for rye

For American or New World whiskies, seek out Bourbon whiskey with rye heavily involved in the blend (anything upwards of 20% as a little goes a long way) or try a straight rye (where rye makes up at least 51% of the blend), such as Bulleit Rye (a steal at $28). If you have tasted rye bread before, you notice how pungent and distinct it is, but also how flavorful it is without being too dense. That's how rye whiskey presents itself, too.

Good quality Canadian whisky often has a significant proportion of rye, so if you encounter an artisanal product coming from north of the border, give it a shot!

3. Head to Asia

Japan produces whisky along the same rules as a peated Scotch whisky, but rather than a spirit that is rich and malty, flavors are clean and transparent with lots of fresh orchard fruit (apple, peach, and plum come to mind) and a floral character on the nose. Some producers use Japanese oak that increases the floral/perfume character and imparts a little peppery spice. Japan experiments with many grains in blended whiskies, leading to leaner and lighter-bodied spirits. These are all techniques that will provide you with a lively finished product.

Another place to look? Taiwan!

So whether you are a seasonal drinker, or are just looking to change up your stash in the home bar, I have a few ways you can go.

If you want Scotch...

Glenkinchie 12 Year Old ($55-ish): One of the few Lowland distilleries in operation, Glenkinchie's flagship product gives you light citrus, fresh flowers, and a touch of vanilla cream. With a drying, herbal finish this is great with light salty snacks. 

Other good choices include Monkey Shoulder Blended Scotch ($30), and Glenmorangie Original ($35, a staple which I give to people who claim they don't like Scotch)

If you want Bourbon...

Buffalo Trace Bourbon Whiskey ($28): during a time where Bourbon's popularity is at an all-time high, it's good to see Buffalo Trace hasn't gotten too out-of-control on price. There is noticeable rye on the finish in this otherwise balanced example, but the rye is what we are looking for in the warmer weather. With flavors of vanilla, brown sugar, and fresh oranges, this is a crowd-pleaser.

Other good options include Woodford Reserve ($40, my go-to for the Kentucky Derby) and Basil Hayden's ($45) for their higher rye proportions; Basil Hayden's might be close to one-third rye.

If you want something off the beaten path...

Hibiki Harmony ($66): For the whisky nerds out there, the Harmony has a broad spectrum of gentle flavors and aromas. Delicate and light-bodied, this has tropical and exotic fruit flavors, backed by wild herbs, roses, and a pleasant woodiness. There is an incense-like note on the end that is a signature of the use of Japanese oak. If you can find it, try it! 

Ask Tony: What's The Deal With Asparagus And Wine?

In my best Jerry Seinfeld voice, "What's the deal with asparagus?"

Welcome to my newest segment: Ask Tony! You have questions, I (maybe) have answers.

Spring's arrival means the first bounty of green vegetables. While these don't make it to the forefront of a meal for some, certainly this is an important time for the vegetarian and vegan diners out there. Still...you should be having greens on the side with your meat dishes! Listen to your parents for once!

Asparagus: rough stuff if it comes in contact with the wrong wine. Proceed with caution!

So among the leafy harvest of kale, Swiss chard, collards, and salad greens also comes the distinct, stalky vegetable called asparagus. It's chemical composition is unique; there are things called "asparagusic acid," "asparagosides," "asparagine," and "asparenyol" involved. These are group of building blocks that make asparagus so asparagus-y. To boot, 60-80% of the asparagus-consuming American population notices quite the "aroma" that emerges when you need to use the potty. All of these asparagus-y chemical components become the bane of many a wine pairing enthusiast. One has to be careful when marrying wines to these spears of green goodness. The wrong choice leads to overly tart, metallic, and astringent flavors on your palate. It's a beyond unpleasant chemical reaction for your senses.

I know...it doesn't sound like there is a lot of upside to getting wine into the equation when asparagus is being served. However, there is always a way. It's not impossible to enjoy both. A really simple guideline is to go for fresh, fruity, unoaked white wines. New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc and Finger Lakes or Alsace Riesling immediately come to mind. You can even go with a Grüner Veltliner, which has always been an equalizer when it comes to greens.

A Grenache-based rosé wine, such as those coming from Navarra (Spain) or from the Côtes du Rhône in France will give you fruitiness if you are not a fan of white wine. If you must have a red, it can be a tougher pairing; any tannins will create chaos. Mild, unoaked, low-tannin reds such as the Gamay-based wines of Beaujolais would be useful in this spot, but go simple. If you spend for the "cru" wines, some (such as those from Morgon, Moulin-à-Vent, Côte de Brouilly, and Brouilly) have tannin in there; you might want to search for cru regions like Fleurie, which are lighter and gentler.

If all else fails, wrap a piece of prosciutto around a bundle of asparagus or cover asparagus with cheese. That will make life easy and you can just drink whatever you want!

Here are a few specific options for you. Try them for yourself and let me know what you think!

If you have questions you want answered, get in touch with me and maybe I will feature your question in another segment!

Silver Thread Finger Lakes Dry Riesling ($18)

Vibrant and peachy, this dry example from New York finishes clean and should help tame the green monster.

Dog Point Vineyard Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc ($20)

Bursting with passionfruit, herbs and a hint of stony earthiness, the ripeness will work wonders with asparagus.

Vega Sindoa Navarra Garnacha Rosado ($11)

Not having any part of white wine? This simple pink wine gives you lots of strawberry and spiced flavors at a terrific bargain.

Chateau de Pizay Beaujolais ($15)

A producer who has been a longtime favorite at the store, this is straightforward raspberry and baking spice that will satisfy the red wine fan.

Ham vs. Lamb: The Great Easter Battle

Up here in New England, we got our first real taste of springtime over the weekend and I know those south of here are actually going to experience something more summer-like to start the week. With the warmth, barrage of blooming vegetation and subsequent allergies comes Easter Sunday, a very important holiday for the Christian/Catholic community.

Easter (along with Passover) signal a bit of a change in our eating habits. We finally find some quality seasonal produce from our grocers and markets. Along comes the desire for lighter, fresher meals with vibrant flavors that are a contrast from the heavy stews and roasts (though not totally eliminated). Perhaps if you are not a year-round grilling person, you might be firing up the Weber in the coming days. Our (OK...my) drinking preferences change, too. the big, tannic red wines and rich white wines are exchanged for lighter reds, leaner whites, and perhaps a little rosé (by the way, you will notice a theme of "transition" being hammered home in this week's posts). A change of pace is good for all of us; it keeps us on our toes.

If you are celebrating Easter with a big feast, chances are a baked ham or a cut of lamb will be your dinner table's centerpiece. Based on what direction you go in, you have subcategories of each. Is your ham smoked, or honey-glazed? Are you have leg of lamb, rack of lamb, or grilled lamb chops? With these decisions come wine choices. Different styles and grape varieties are going to impact your palate based on your meat selection.

Generally speaking, ham has a rich texture with a sweet/salty flavor profile. When you add seasonings or glazes, it adds another layer of complexity, making pairing challenging. Lamb is deep, earthy, and strongly flavored. You might find lamb seasoned simply with salt and pepper or prepared with a mint jelly that is also going to add a wrinkle to pairing wines.

So what to do? Well, I have a group of six recommendations for you below, because we are covering quite the range of styles for both main course dinner and for the accompanying wines. Prices are, as always, an approximation. If none of these play well with that side dish of asparagus on Sunday, fear not...I'll have an explanation for you next time. Until then, what are you having on Sunday: Ham or lamb?

Brooks Amycas White Blend ($18)

I have to say, Brooks Winery, located in Amity, Oregon, is one of my favorite producers as they consistently offer high-quality juice. This interesting blend (vintage 2016) of 44% Riesling, 21% Pinot Blanc, 15% Muscat, 10% Gewurztraminer, and 10% Pinot Gris is a New World take on the classic "Gentil" blend of noble aromatic varieties of Alsace, France. All of the tropical and exotic fruits are strong in this one (pineapple, papaya, lychee) and fruity on the palate. Great with a straightforward unglazed baked ham. If you want to go the Old World route, legendary Alsatian producer Hugel has its Gentil ($14) based on the same varieties as Brooks, but with a grape called "Sylvaner" in place of the Pinot Blanc

La Croix des Loges Anjou Chenin Blanc ($16)

Chenin Blanc is an underappreciated variety. Its high natural acidity screams out for food and this barrel-aged example has flavors and aromas of peaches, nectarines, honeysuckle with a honeyed texture that finishes clean with a touch of sweetness. This is the wine you want for the honey-glazed ham.

Alexander Valley Vineyards Rosé of Sangiovese ($16)

This is a powerfully fruity pink wine that taste like a glass of herbed strawberries. This is a very good crossover wine if you have both of our featured meats; the peach notes are great with spices on a ham, the minty herbaceousness great with a roast lamb

Undurraga Terroir Hunter Pinot Noir ($24)

Pinot Noir has become a popular choice for hams, New World styles in particular thanks to its fruity/jammy red berry flavors and softness on the palate. The example from Undurraga has lush fruit and body; it's slight smokiness is a fine partner if you have a smoked ham.

Condado de Haza Ribera del Duero ($25)

Made of 100% Tempranillo from the outstanding producer Alejandro Fernandez, this wine is packed with dark berry fruit, tobacco and leather. If you are going with the roasted leg of lamb, this is what I'm going with.

Thorn Clarke "Shotfire" Shiraz ($23)

If you are taking the lamb to the grill, this Aussie Shiraz has plenty of bold jammy berry fruit, and peppery character to stand up to the char and the lamb's distinct flavor profile. If you are adding mint to the equation, detour from Shiraz to Wynn's Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon ($20-ish). It has the same dark fruit and boldness, but eucalyptus, basil and fresh mint enter the picture and that will complement the mint sauce on your lamb.

The Wine of Spring That Will Make You Sing

When it comes to exploring wines of the world there are hundreds, perhaps thousands, of grape varieties that need a good home. If you really want to get to know your own personal tastes and preferences, it pays to step outside of your comfort zone. It may feel uneasy to do so on your own in the beginning, and that's OK...that's why you have me to lean on!

A quick story that bears importance to today's topic: Many years ago when I worked at Passion Vines in South Jersey, I attended an Austrian wine session. Going into it, I knew zero things about Austrian wine. Fortunately, the tasting was run by an awesome lady who works at Monika Caha Selections, an exclusively-Austrian import company who spends a lot of time over there. I was instantly introduced to grape varieties that had its share of umlauts in their names: Grüner Veltliner (GROO-ner VELT-linn-er), Blaufränkisch (Blau-FRANK-ish) are two that immediately came to mind. Everything I tasted that night (along with Riesling and a red grape called Zweigelt {ZVY-gelt}) was outstanding, and I received a great foundation of Austria's geography. From there, I was hooked.

Drinking Grüner Veltliner might turn you into Julie Andrews on a mountaintop, so consume with caution.

So let's take Grüner Veltliner and dive it to it some more. Grüner Veltliner, Austria's native, signature variety, is by far the most widely planted white grape. Planted in vineyards in just about every winemaking region in the country, it has emerged as a cult favorite dry white wine here in the United States thanks to its refreshing acidity and affinity for "green" foods (coincidentally, "Grüner" does indeed translate to "green"), a rare characteristic for wine grapes. Stone fruit flavor and peppery spice can often be found in these wines, while textures can range from light and lean (great with raw salad greens) to lush, yet balanced (great with a pork roast or the fried deliciousness that is Wienerschnitzel). There are even vines that are well over 100 years old offering incredible ageworthy examples (The producer Forstreiter makes one from the ancient Tabor vineyard, which I had the pleasure of tasting way back when)!

Additionally, while Grüner Veltliner wines typically come from Austria, keep an eye out for any New World examples, particularly from Oregon (I don't have much access to Northwestern U.S. examples here, but I'm sure we will in due time). If you taste anything from there, please tell me about it!

So as we gravitate to light and fresh spring cuisine, this is a great opportunity for you to welcome Grüner Veltliner with open arms. I have three for you to seek out, none of which will break the bank and stay below the $20 threshold.

Dutch is comtemplating what he might do if he finds out you aren't giving Grüner Veltliner a chance.

Additionally, should you want to know more about Austrian wine, the Austrian Wine Marketing Board is LOADED with great information, packaged very neatly for your convenience.

GROO-ner Grüner Veltliner (about $10): This is an easy entry point for you. GROO-ner can be found in many locations, giving you peachy refreshment with a peppery kick, along with soft green herbs (like fresh thyme) on the nose. Stop paying over $20 for branded bland Pinot Grigio and try this...it will be an eye-opener!

Steinfeld Grüner Veltliner ($13): This is light in body with citrus and apricot fruit flavors, white pepper, and a clean and zesty finish that will pair well with anything from delicate white fish to salads and even gazpacho. This couldn't be an easier way to get to know Grüner Veltliner!

Weingut Stadt Krems Kremstal Grüner Veltliner ($16): Flavors and aromas of grapefruit zest, white peach, and a touch of green herbs, all backed by a creamy texture and long, minerally finish. This is one to try with something more substantial, such as poached chicken, lobster, or Wienerschnitzel!

Classic Cocktails: The Masters and The Arnold Palmer

There has always been a signal for me when spring truly arrives, especially up here in gray, rainy Southeastern Connecticut. Actually, it's a confluence of events that gets me feeling like enjoying the great outdoors, and they all have to do with sports: Major League Baseball Opening Day, the NCAA Basketball Final Four, and the advertisements for professional golf's first major tournament, The Master's.

Coming up this Thursday morning, Augusta National Golf Club hosts the 84th installment of The Masters, and when the ceremonial tee shot takes place there will be a noticeable absence. Back in September of 2016, one of golf's legends and American mainstream icons, Arnold Palmer, passed away at the age of 87. He had not attended the event for a couple of years, but his presence was always felt. Palmer is largely responsible for helping pro golfers get paid the way that they do today, and he did a lot for the community in his hometown of Latrobe, Pennsylvania.

However, Palmer has a lasting legacy in another form...the cocktail (Ha...you thought I was going to say Pennzoil commericals). A non-alcoholic one, in fact, that can be enjoyed by anyone with functioning taste buds. The Arnold Palmer cocktail came to be after coming home and asking his wife if she could make a pitcher of (unsweetened) iced tea, but to add a quarter to a third of the volume as lemonade. As it turned out, it was incredibly refreshing and hit the spot so much that Palmer took a thermos of the drink with him on tour.

When Palmer requested this drink in Palm Springs on a 115-degree day while on tour, others overheard him order this drink and asked for what he was having, therefore associating the drink with the seven-time major tournament winner. The rest, as they say, is history.

If you want to check out the ESPN 30 for 30 short film produced that discusses how the Arnold Palmer came to be, check it out here. It is an entertaining nine minutes as Will Arnett (known to your kids as Lego Batman) is prominently involved.

So you can go ahead and have that drink as 2/3 unsweetened iced tea with 1/3 lemonade. After all, our livers need a break from booze periodically. But what if you want to add some spirit to make it more interesting? As always I have options for you. Just add 1.5 oz of any spirit below to make the Arnold Palmer a grown-up beverage.

Note that while the Arizona Beverage "Arnold Palmer" has become a staple at grocery and convenience stores, it is sweeter tasting and probably closer to a "half and half." Adjust the recommendations below according to your personal taste preference if you choose to go the already canned/bottled route.

Whether you are a golf fan, or don't really give a damn about the sport, I ask you to give one of these a shot (oh, the puns this week) when you make your Arnold Palmer.

If You Are A Vodka Person:

Vodka is clean and transparent with subtle flavors, so no flavor will ever really get in the way of a mixed drink, but some of those nuances can be the difference between a "good" and a "great" cocktail. A rye-based vodka like Belvedere complements the unsweetened tartness of the tea and lemonade. If you want to offset that sensation, go with a pot-distilled wheat vodka like Ketel One or Tito's. The richness and body of either of those will work wonderfully as a counter to the tea and lemonade.

If You Are A (Bourbon/Rye) Whiskey Person:

Maker's Mark is a wheated Bourbon that is soft and gentle and counter's the unsweetened tea very well. Jefferson's Small Batch is a fine choice for mixing, giving you the classic Bourbon vanilla sweetness. If you want something more aromatic and aggressive to get the juices flowing, try High West Distilling's Double Rye or Russell's 6 Year Rye. Any of these run you no more than $40 per bottle.

Note that Scotch whisky's malted barley base would clash with the flavors of the tea and lemonade; it's best to save that bottle of Johnnie Walker or Glenlivet for something else.

If You Are Italian Or Really Like Liqueurs:

Try some Limoncello in this! There are some great homemade recipes that you can find online if you want to undertake that yourself (which is currently in the works here at Castello d'Ambrosini). However, if you want to be able to grab something off of your local beverage mart's shelves, Distilleria Caffo makes a tremendous Limoncello that is not sticky sweet and, well...tastes lemony! Best of all, you can find this for roughly $20...you and I both know that you have burned $20 on something without thinking of it before. Why not spend that on an artisanally-crafted liqueur?

Don't Pass Over the Kosher Wine

Yeah, I went for the obvious pun in the title of this post. I couldn't resist being that guy for a moment...

Now, let's get serious. Passover is coming next week and for my Jewish friends, this is a significant springtime feast holiday. If you didn't know, Passover celebrates the emancipation of the Israelites from decades of Egyptian slavery. The main traditional meal, the Seder, features, lamb or brisket, bitter herbs, and matzah (the flat unleavened bread, which according to this web site's explanation, never had time to rise before the Israelites fled Egypt). Growing up in New Jersey, I had more than a handful of Jewish friends and recognized what a big holiday this was for them.

Additionally at the Seder, there are four cups of wine served. Wine was considered the drink of royalty in ancient times, and with newly found freedom the Israelites were able to partake in wine consumption. There are many reasons given as to why four cups are used, and you can read about them here. 

Chances are you will see one of these symbols on a Kosher bottle of wine. If you see one of these symbols with a "P" next to it, the wine is Kosher for Passover. Image credit: Lindsay du Vin

If you are participating in a Seder and you are bringing wine, it needs to be labeled "Kosher for Passover," meaning the wine must be produced with a rabbi's observance with no juice or equipment having touched yeast that made contact with grain, bread, or dough. Please note that it does not need to be Manischewitz, the wine made from concord grapes that is so acidic it is significantly sweetened to balance the harsh tartness. Chances are, this wine will be used in one of the four cups and will likely already be at the Seder host's home. The unique taste of Manischewitz leads some to think all kosher wines taste sticky sweet, but this couldn't be farther from the truth.

Back in February, I was asked by a friend to do a Kosher wine presentation and tasting for a group at a synagogue. I am not Jewish. I am not a theology expert by any stretch (by the way, feel free to correct any factual errors in this post and let me have it). However, I am a wine nerd and what better way to expand on my wine nerdery by helping people make good choices for the holiday table? I had never done one of these types of tastings before, but it was a great opportunity to learn more. Without hesitation, I was in.

We had a lineup of wines originating from all over the world. That's right...Kosher wines can be made anywhere. While there is a religious connection to Kosher production, honestly you can just think of Kosher production as an adherence to a standard, no different than following rules to make a wine that is labeled "Sustainable," or "Organic," or "Biodynamic." The biggest discovery made that night was this: Kosher wines taste better than they ever have. Back in the day, Kosher wines were literally boiled to pasteurize the wine, leading to flat, tired-tasting wines with little fruit on the palate. Today, flash pasteurization techniques are used to adhere to Kosher standards; some inexpensive Ruby Ports are made this way and those taste fine. 

So there wasn't a bad wine in the bunch. Some folks may have preferred one style over another, but we could all agree that the quality of the wines were very good. Below are some of the favorites of that night that you can proudly bring to a Passover Seder, all of which will cost you somewhere in the $18-$25 range. If you are not celebrating Passover and you encounter one of these wines on your local wine shop's shelf, I encourage you to experience them for yourself.

Baron Herzog Selection Vouvray: This is 100% Chenin Blanc, featuring peachy fruit flavors. Chenin is a grape with a high level of natural acidity and is balanced by just a touch of sweetness. This wine can be tremendous with matzoh ball soup, or simply as an aperitif to welcome your guests. If you are looking for a Manischewitz alternative, consider this Vouvray.

Recanati Chardonnay: This Israeli winery was founded by Lenny Recanati, who traces his family's roots to Italy. His Chardonnay from Upper Galilee has defined pineapple and passion fruit flavors, clean and unoaked. Not only a great choice for the Seder, this is going to be a fine spring/summertime Chardonnay to enjoy as well.

Ramon Cardova Rioja: 100% Tempranillo, this is a lighter Rioja with bright, fresh red berry flavors and a touch of oak and spice. A straightforward and versatile wine, this is a natural partner with lamb.

Psagot Sinai Red Blend: 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Shiraz. This bold and spicy red blend from the Judean Hills region of Israel shows a great combination of New World fruit-forwardness with Old World earthy tones. The richness and peppery kick on the finish will be outstanding with a brisket.

The Skurnik Files: How Back Labels Can Make You A Smarter Shopper

Last week, I wrote of my experience at the Grand Portfolio Tasting presented by Skurnik Wines & Spirits. That event spurred a ton of thoughts on how I can help you, my fellow beverage consumer and today I guide you in a direction that I think most shoppers take for granted.

Skurnik, along with other suppliers, distributors, and importers, sell their products to your favorite wine shops and beverage depots across the country. Depending on the retailer you give your hard-earned money to, you could be speaking to salespeople at a specialty shop to help guide you or you are left to your own devices at a big box store, based on the level of knowledge and experience of the employees. No matter the type of store you frequent, there is always one way to help yourself get an idea of what you might like.

Take a look at the back label of that bottle

The front label of a wine bottle or whiskey bottle is always the sexy, magnetic way of drawing you into the product. It is what is displayed on the shelves, and a lot of times there are some great pieces of information to help you get an idea of what is inside those bottles. There are names of grape varieties, a wine region shown, vineyard names, village names (often in French wines), whiskey age statements, and flavors of a vodka just to name a few examples.

However, on the back is where we find the names of the suppliers. A lot of times, the web sites are listed so you can see their whole portfolio. A supplier may be heavy in Old World/European wines (like Skurnik), almost exclusively Italian (Dark Star Imports), or into South American wine, lesser-known California wines and sake (Vine Connections). Click on any of those links, and you will get stories on individual producers and their products available. You can read about the company's philosophy. Maybe you share the love of organic wines that a supplier is focused on. Or perhaps you see a supplier focused on aged rums (which you might be able to add to your personal collection of aged rums). While each product may not be available in each state, you can oftentimes approach your retailer to see if they can order you anything of interest...and your order typically arrives in 1-2 days if the supplier has the products in stock.

So if, for example, it turns out you really like Skurnik's La Colombina Brunello di Montalcino, you may end up liking Skurnik's Brunello from the producer Mocali. Even if the style is different, it should still taste good. You liked the Mocali? Try their Rosso di Montalcino or the Brunello Riserva. This is how you can develop a personal flavor profile. A high-quality supplier is carefully screening what will do well in the U.S. market or individual states, and when a wine makes it into the portfolio, it will almost always be worth trying if the wine is a style that intrigues you. I like those odds.

You might also see a wine region you never saw before. Google "Salice Salentino". You will discover that Negroamaro is a grape used in this Italian region's red wines. Check out Negroamaro and you'll find descriptions that might mirror Cabernet Sauvignon. If you are a Cabernet Sauvignon fan, chances are you might like wines of Salice Salentino.

Three wines from Central Italy, all from different producers, subregions, and importers. Lots of good data to help you, including web sites for further research.

William Grant & Sons is a supplier of the best-selling single malt Scotch whisky, Glenfiddich. If you are a fan of Glenfiddich 12 Year, perhaps you want to try the 12 Year example from Balvenie distillery, which is also in the William Grant portfolio.

Provide your feedback to your retailer. The wine manager is going to meet with representatives of these suppliers, so your favorable reviews or harsh criticisms help make future decisions on what you will encounter on the shelves. A little research and dialogue go a long way in helping you figure out smart ways to branch out, all while sticking with a style that your prefer.

So flip that bottle around every now and then. You never know what kick-ass bottle you will discover next.

The Obligatory St. Patrick's Day Beer and Whiskey Post

Today marks a day of great pride. On this day one year ago, my third son was born and many years ago my father was, too. Six years ago tomorrow, my second son was born. Additionally, we have some Irish ancestry in our immediate family, so March 17th carries a lot of importance to us around these parts.

I know that across the country and particularly in the swath of the I-95 corridor stretching from Boston down to Philadelphia, there are many folks taking pride in their Irish roots by participating or attending parades, heading out to a favorite beverage establishment, or enjoying the day humbly and quietly at home. While the outward celebration in the streets is what we are typically used to seeing, the latter method of observance would not be surprising at all. After all, St. Patrick himself was a humble figure in history.

Quick history lesson as I did in my St. Valentine's post: As a teenager, he was captured by pirates in Roman Brittania in the 5th century and enslaved for six years in Ireland, herding and tending to sheep. During his time in captivity, he turned to Catholicism and had a vision that he was to leave Ireland and return home, eventually escaping and finding sailors at the coast who he convinced to bring him back to Brittania. While home, Patrick joined the priesthood, working his way to a bishop. At this time, another vision had him going back to the very place in which he was enslaved to spread Catholicism, so he ventured to Ireland. Here, Patrick began converting the people to Catholicism and built numerous churches across the country, giving all of himself to the cause right up to his death in the middle of the 5th century.

On this day of observance, I know that plenty of Guinness and Jameson will be consumed. Heck, Jameson Irish Whiskey is popular in the U.S. all year long as it makes up 78% of all Irish whiskey sales. Guinness Stout's consumption in the U.S. somewhere near a BILLION liters per year! While these are delicious beverages, it also pays to explore a little. Consider this my attempt to get you to branch out (not convert you). Now, I am no beer authority, but it sure seems like there is a craft movement happening in Ireland. And if you can find any of the beers listed here (even if the post is two years old), I say dive in.

As for whiskey, well...I have you covered. If you need to, feel free to reference my Whisky vs. Whiskey post for general production information

West Cork Distillers Blended Irish Whiskey Bourbon Cask ($20-ish): This is a blend of grain and malted barley to make a light-bodied whiskey with a lot of vanilla flavor. A solid alternative option from Jameson.

The Tyrconnell Single Malt Irish Whiskey (about $40): Kilbeggan Distilling created a creamy and full-bodied example of Irish whiskey made completely from malted barley with a long, fruity finish.

Green Spot Château Leoville-Barton Cask Finish ($90-ish): This is a fantastic way to treat yourself. This single pot still Irish whiskey first ages in a combination of Bourbon and Oloroso Sherry casks, then finishes in casks that held legendary classed growth Bordeaux wine for 12-24 months. The spectrum of flavor is wide and deep, showing everything from peach and plum fruit to sweet baking spices to more savory salt and pepper spices.

Why You Should Attend A Gigantic Tasting Event

In this business, I spend the majority of my time promoting events for the Divine Wine Emporium. I love doing it, because we do some great things at the shop with classroom "Wine 101" courses, guest speakers, and wine and music events. Combining education with enjoyment is important to me; getting customers to share my excitement for these events gives me great personal satisfaction.

Of course, it is also fun to attend an industry event outside of the store, which for me takes a little planning and coordination to make happen. So for a full day, I was able to dump all parenting responsibilities to my loving wife and get out for one such event with Skurnik Wines & Spirits.

Image credit: Skurnik Wines & Spirits

A quick summary/tangent about the way alcohol is sold in the U.S. (skip this paragraph if you already know or just don't care): The United States is set up in a three-tiered model of selling alcoholic beverages, meaning the beverage producer (or producer's importer if coming from abroad) sells their product to a wholesaler or distributor. The wholesaler then sells to retailers. Retailers sell to you, either from their stores or their restaurants and bars. There are some ways to go directly from producer to consumer (through wine clubs, for example), but each individual state has its own rules for shipping, taxation, and other aspects of sale. I'll stop here, because we can easily go down a rabbit hole with this topic.

Yes...this is a Barbie doll in a prosciutto dress. Image credit: Skurnik Wines & Spirits

Skurnik Wines & Spirits is a tremendous importer and distributor of fine wines and distilled beverages with headquarters in New York City. Not only does the company sell its products to retail stores (like the Divine Wine Emporium) and restaurants throughout New York, New Jersey, and Connecticut, but they are a nationwide importer of wines and spirits. Additionally, Skurnik will be opening up distribution in California beginning May 1st. On March 7th, the company celebrated its 30th anniversary with a Grand Portfolio Tasting, showcasing over 1,000 products on 140 tables at the Metropolitan Pavilion. There were dozens of winemakers to talk to and learn from, a bartender mixing cocktails with the spirits on-hand, and prosciutto-clad Barbie dolls.

Now, this particular event was set up strictly for retailers, but there are other opportunities for consumers to go to these large-scale events. I could give you plenty of advice in this regard, but I have to say that my friend the Passionate Foodie has a detailed list on how to attack these types of tastings. There are hundreds of alcoholic beverages on display and you want to get through it without overwhelming yourself or needing to be stuffed into a wheelbarrow and rolled out the door.

So why should you do this? I have three reasons.

You will taste something you would never think to try otherwise on your own.

See this? Can't understand it? Who cares! It's delicious, especially if you like rosé wine.

And this is a great thing. The statement above, after all, is my job! So if I can't be your guide, take what amounts to a self-guided tour of the world. Having the house Chardonnay or California red blend on-hand in your cellar/wine fridge at all times is good...you need that. But at these events, it's an opportunity to get to know a new grape like Verdicchio or Marselan. Explore Austria or some lesser-known corner of Washington state. I promise that you will discover something you never knew you would like.

It will get you out of a rut.

This applies to both the consumer and the trade. For the consumer, it will snap you out of being too comfortable in tasting the same things over and over again. You like Chardonnay? Try a Soave Classico. Like Pinot Noir? Venture into Gamay. Love Scotch? Try a Bourbon. You get the idea.

For the retailers, it can be too easy to purchase the same thing repeatedly. Yes, it's good for business if you are making money selling high volumes of the same product, but customers also want variety and turnover. Spice up the wine list with a Sherry or Port. Get a Chinon Rosé on your shelf.

You may have to step up your self-education and research skills, but so what? It will be a refreshing experience for all involved. 

You meet awesome people in the industry.

Eric de Saint-Victor, owner of Château de Pibarnon and terrific human being! Image credit: Skurnik Wines & Spirits

A lot of folks who work in the wine and spirits business are a lot of fun to talk to. Winemakers and Master Distiller types are often scattered among the tables. As a consumer and a tradesperson, you can learn about the philosophies for creating their desired styles of beverages. They are extremely passionate about what they do and love to pour you samples. If you are in the trade, you get to talk to others who are wine directors and buyers; get to know what's working for them in their part of the country and maybe you can apply it to where you are, too. Sure, everyone is going to theoretically be a competitor, but if LeBron James and Carmelo Anthony can hang out and practice together, you can hang with a fellow wine buyer. 

There is much more to speak of as a result of this event. I tasted some outstanding wines and spirits and YOU need to know about them. Be on the lookout for more posts inspired by the Skurnik tasting!

Drinking Among the Chaos

You haven't heard from me in over a week. Life has dealt me plenty of projects, runny noses, and baby sleep transitions so I have just been trying to sort through all of the chaos. This also means there hasn't been much time for drinking. While that's great for my liver, it's not so great for my ability to share new beverages, but such is life.

Notice how I said "much" time. After all, I'm still a professional with a job to do. You need to know what to enjoy when you are going through the same thing. You work your tails off all week long, and sometimes at the end of the night you just want to grab a glass of wine to enjoy without really thinking much about it. I know when I get into this kind of a mood, my only requirement is that it simply tastes good. I don't need some long, complex finish that I need to analyze to death. I'm not looking for subtlety and nuance. Just give me a good, straightforward wine.

So for these moments when we haven't had time to connect due to all of our commitments (and my brain has temporarily turned to mush), let's do a flight of three wines that are satisfying at any time...and they won't cost you an arm and a leg.

I'll be back soon, ready to chat like a grown-up again soon enough after my upcoming trip to the Michael Skurnik Wines Grand Portfolio Tasting in NYC. Enjoy!

Parolvini Barone Nero Veneto Red Blend ($11): The Barone Nero is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec (rare to find in Italy), and Refosco (a popular violet-scented northern Italian grape). This unusual combo yields a wine with lots of dark fruit and gentle tannins. Great with a sausage and pepper sandwich.

Claar Cellars Cabernet-Merlot White Bluff ($16): 60% Cabernet, 40% Merlot, 100% from Columbia Valley, Washington. Bright and ripe cherry, berry, and black plum fruit with a touch of cocoa. Full body, soft tannins, and the right amount of acidity to balance the wine. Delicious and easy-drinking.

St. Hallett "Faith" Barossa Shiraz ($15): Australia deserves a little love. After the "critter" wines infiltrated the U.S. market, we wrongfully stopped taking the wines seriously. What better way to get reacquainted with Aussie Shiraz with the St. Hallett...it has the blackberry jam, prune, and peppery spice that is widely associated with the Shiraz grape. Grab a bacon cheeseburger and get drinking! 

Stop Making Excuses: Open That Bottle!

In the quest to have voices heard and agendas to promote, you may have noticed there is a "day" for just about everything. Just this month alone has things like National Cream Cheese Brownie Day (groan), National Love Your Pet Day (that's right...eff you on the the other 364.25 days of the year, Fido), and National Cook A Sweet Potato Day (because everyone loves to eat these raw). Hell, it was just National Drink Wine Day on the 18th! I didn't even realize this because I don't need a day to remind me to drink wine.

February 25th is a day that I think we can all get behind as it relates to adult beverages. Yes, tomorrow is Open That Bottle Day (Night). Created by the Wall Street Journal's Dorothy J. Gaiter and John Brecher, this is a day that encourages wine drinkers to uncork that bottle they have been seeking an excuse or the perfect opportunity to open. It could be sentimental, expensive, whatever...you just open it up on the fourth Saturday in February. I would even extend this to the spirits realm, too. Did you pick up a 25-year old Scotch a few years ago? Open it up...it's not getting any better just sitting there!

I have my own decision to make for tomorrow. I have some high-quality options: past birthday gifts, old purchases that can develop in the bottle, and other assorted kick-ass wines. However, I have something that will ultimately be my choice based on an outstanding experience I had in Sonoma wine country.

This is what I look like when I crawl out from under my rock and act like a grown-up, roughly a half-dozen times per year.

It was just three years ago that I returned from London with a Diploma of Wine & Spirits in hand, along with a work-study opportunity sponsored by the Atlanta-based Republic National Distributing Company (RNDC). I still remember the excitement of being able to visit a couple of wineries in Napa and Sonoma counties, because despite all of my hard work learning about booze I somehow had never made it to any vineyards in California. So in April of 2014, after spending two days in Atlanta learning the ins and outs of how alcohol distribution works, I headed out to Cuvaison Winery in Napa.

Hard work. Good thing I am a trained professional.

The vineyards at Cuvaison. From L-R: Jennifer Fernandez, Central U.S. Regional Manager; Steve Richards, National Sales Manager, Steven Rogstad, Winemaker

Steven Rogstad is a one-man wrecking crew of grapegrowing and winemaking at Cuvaison. He not only manages the certified sustainable vineyards on property, but he is also the lead winemaker. It was a blitz of information he shared with me that day, showing me all the nerdy technical information that I crave, but also guided me on a tasting of individual clones of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes. These clones all bring different aspects to a finished wine. One might be high in acid, another higher in potential alcohol. One Chardonnay clone may have citrusy flavors, while another has more tropical fruit. The winemaker chooses the proportion of clones to blend together to make the final wine, based on a desired style of expression. So for me, this was an unbelievable opportunity.

My amazing tour guides. Chris Benziger, National Sales Manager, and Jeff Landolt, Viticulture Operations Coordinator at the deCoelo Vineyard, Sonoma Coast.

After staying overnight in Napa, I drove to Sonoma bright and early the next morning to spend the entire day at Benziger Family Estate to get a serious crash course in viticulture, with emphasis on organic and biodynamic practices in the vineyard. We drove from site to site, studying nuanced variations among each location that make a huge impact on the finished wine, with particular emphasis on that finicky grape known as Pinot Noir. Without boring you with more technical details, let's just say that my brain was on overload thanks to the amazing knowledge of Viticulure Operations Coordinator, Jeff Landolt. Jeff is younger than I am, yet likely forgot more about grapegrowing and vineyard management than I will ever know. Again, the opportunity to taste individual clones, as well as finished wines, presented itself. Of course, I gladly participated.

My choice for Open That Bottle Night!

So this connection I had to such a memorable experience leads me to my own selection for Saturday night. I was sent home from Benziger with the Quintus Pinot Noir ($75), a wine made from fruit that comes from their high-performing deCoelo vineyard, located a mere six miles from the Pacific Ocean on the Sonoma Coast. I can't wait to get reconnected to my time in Sonoma and share it with The Best Wife in the World.

Let me know what you are popping open tomorrow night! I would love to know what you are drinking.

This Week in Tony's Cellar...

Last week was loaded with afterschool activities, rehearsals, concerts, and caring for ill children. It's not easy to find time to get some adult beveraging in with all of that going on, but by golly I found a way to make it happen! After all, part of my service to you is to share what I am drinking, which I realize I have not done nearly enough since starting this blog. You need to know what tastes good, brings you value, what might make a nice gift, and so on.

Fortunately, among the chaos of the week I tasted some terrific wines (sorry...no time for spirits or beer). The Old World triumvirate of France, Italy, and Spain dominated my liver and brought moments of happiness. I have some good things to share with you as all of these are worth seeking out and trying for yourself.

Mionetto Prosecco Brut ($16): Mionetto has been making Prosecco for 130 years, with styles ranging from casual to prestige-level. This flagship product is fresh and lightly fruity; we added some peach nectar for a simple Valentine's Day cocktail.

Bodega Otazu Navarra Premium Cuvée Red Blend ($13): Rioja's neighbor Navarra is red and rosé-dominant. Aside from traditional varieties like Tempranillo and Garnacha, Navarra also plays with international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. This particular blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Tempranillo, and 20% Merlot is loaded with dark cherry, blackberry and tobacco flavors. An easy weeknight red to enjoy with a juicy burger.

Château Saint-Cosme Little James' Basket Press Red ($14): Saint-Cosme is best known for its wines produced in the Gigondas region of the Rhône Valley (a neighbor of the higher-profile Châteauneuf-du-Pape region). This multi-vintage 100% Grenache is aged in concrete tanks, leading to a very fresh, yet dark and deep wine. Awesome with a medium-rare roast beef.

Maison Louis Latour Marsannay ($23): Louis Latour's wines are a consistently great way to get introduced to the individual villages of Burgundy. Red wines from Marsannay are 100% Pinot Noir, and this expression shows a mix of red and black fruit. Fragrant yet powerful on the palate, its savory finish begs for some roast duck, but a charcuterie platter or flavorful cheese (like Munster) would do just fine here, too. We had this as a reward for surviving the busy week!

As for the week coming up...

February 21st: We are tasting a range of wines from Steele of Lake County, California at the Divine Wine Emporium. Bill Bishop, National Sales Manager at Steele, joins us in the classroom. He is a fantastic storyteller and with vineyard holdings throughout California, you can get a very good feel for which styles you prefer over others. Steele's wines are a longtime favorite of the store as they consistently deliver for the price.

February 25th: I am delivering a tasting of kosher wines for a group that is preparing for Passover. The time to taste wines for the holiday table is now, and I will be showcasing an array of wines from Bordeaux, Spain, and Israel, all produced in accordance with kosher guidelines. It's a fun topic to revisit for myself, but it is also great to promote the fact that kosher wines are quite tasty!

Hope your week is off to a great start!

The Obligatory Valentine's Day Wine And Chocolate Post

Tuesday is Valentine's Day, a date on your calendar that can be met with a mix of emotions. Some people love it and go all out with the stereotypical package of flowers, candy, and dinner out at a nice restaurant. Others loathe it believing it is some made-up "Hallmark Holiday" or perhaps do not have someone to share the day with, and therefore it becomes a depressing day. Some will do their best to just make a Tuesday night extra special for a loved one.

The mix of emotions is understandable. After all St. Valentine, who the holiday is named for, is quite the complex character in history. He performed Catholic marriages against the wishes of the Roman Emperor Claudius II, so Valentine was subsequently beaten, stoned, and beheaded for his actions in the year 269. Oh, what fun! Also, over time St. Valentine became the patron saint of love, but also the patron saint of beekeeping, epilepsy, and plague. My goodness...love is in the air!

And whether you view Valentine's Day as a time for love or the plague, chocolate will always be associated with this day. If you are a wine lover (which I assume you are, because you are here reading this post), then you will inevitably see the articles about "Best Wine & Chocolate Pairings This Valentine's Day" or something of that ilk smattered about the Interwebs. So let's get this out there immediately:

Unless you like sweet wines, stop pairing wine with chocolate.

This is not some hot take. It's fact. Chocolate has a complexity unlike any other food out there. Chocolate comes in flavors that are salty, milky, caramelized, bitter, fruit-filled, but the actual chocolate itself is a combination of sweet, savory and umami. This bold array of flavor needs wine with just as much character and has to be sweeter than the chocolate. The only wines that come to mind are Vintage, Late Bottled Vintage or aged Tawny Port wines. Other sweet wines like Late Harvest Riesling and Ice Wine are too delicate. Sauternes and Tokaj can be dominated by chocolate's character, despite bringing the requisite sweetness and richness levels.

Now, I am sure there is a group of you who might be saying something like, "Hey, Jerky Mr. Know-It-All...I have chocolate-covered strawberries and cherries for dessert. What do you say to that?"

Glad you asked! I have two suggestions, each of which will cost you around $20.

Look for Banfi's Rosa Regale, an Italian lightly sparkling low-alcohol wine bursting with cranberry, strawberry, and raspberry flavors. This is a home run with chocolate-covered strawberries. 

Gerard Bertrand's Banyuls (a Port-like wine made in southern France from Grenache grapes) has a deep, dark black berry jam and cherry fruit character. This is what you want with your chocolate-covered cherries. 

Now with such a challenge posed to the range of sweet wines, why are the dry wines going to be even more difficult? The popular and romantic association has been the ubiquitous Cabernet Sauvignon and dark chocolate pairing, but here's what happens: Cabernet's flavors go hollow when chocolate is introduced. All you are left with is a mouthful of acid, tannin, and alcohol. It's not a pleasing experience, and you want satisfaction on Valentine's Day. Pinot Noir also has a misguided presence here, too. Yes, it is fruity and silky-smooth when done well, but it is delicate and low in tannin; chocolate overwhelms any affordable Pinot Noir. 

My suggestion to you this Valentine's Day is to drink those dry red wines with your kick-ass dinner, or maybe enjoy the wine as an "intermezzo" after dinner and before dessert. Your senses will thank you.

A Salute To My Other Side

With a last name like Ambrosini, it is obvious that Italy makes up my family background. Italian culture didn't necessarily rule my house as a kid, but it certainly made an impact on me. Wine was not a huge part of my upbringing, but it was present here and there, mostly on special occasions. Food, on the other hand...that was an Olympic sport at Casa delle Ambrosini, as well as at the homes of my extended family (that will get a post on its own someday, because it is a well-deserved epic tale of eatery).

Photo credit: Rick Steves

But today, I focus on the other part of my own cultural makeup. That is correct, I am not 100% Italian. My family history also traces back to one of Europe's most popular battlegrounds, Belgium. Yes, Belgium. Outside of my own family, I know of no one else in my social circle who is Belgian, and I love it. The reason for a post about Belgium today is that my one surviving grandparent (my father's mother) just celebrated her 92nd birthday this week. A Belgian native, she came to the U.S. in rather dramatic fashion, being whisked away as a teenager from the perils of World War II by my grandfather. They fell in love, started a family in pre-gentrified Brooklyn, New York, and the rest is history.

This story compelled me to learn more about this "Low Country," both as a kid and as an adult. I did research projects for grade school on World War II (where my grandmother was an unbelievable resource). I went to Belgian cafes and restaurants; Monk's Cafe in Philadelphia is one that immediately comes to mind as a great place for beers and Belgian cuisine.

Here at Flight School wine is a big part of what we discuss, but wine is not made in any real quantity in Belgium. It is, however, consumed at a rate of about 30L per capita (or three times that of the United States). Perhaps this explains my affinity for adult grape juice, but let's not forget about those delightful Belgian beers.

Trying to describe and pinpoint one style of Belgian beer is nearly impossible, sort of like blanketing "Italian wine," because you have a ton to choose from in the Belgian category. You could find any of the following: Trappist-style and Abbey-style; Blonde, Pale, Strong Pale and Strong Dark; Dubbel, Tripel and Quadrupel; Saison, Lambic, Flemish Sour Brown and Flemish Red...the list goes on. Now I am no authority on such subject matter, but if you need a resource I highly encourage you to visit the Beer Advocate style page. You will get to know all of the differences in styles and see examples from a wide range of producers.

As for spirits, Gin and fruit liqueurs are what you will typically find here in the United States. Prior to gin, Belgium was producing the predecessor to gin known as Jenever, which a distilled malt wine that has a richer, earthier flavor than gin's refreshing aromatic character. Within the last year, I encountered Belgian gin for the first time...and I couldn't have been happier to have done so.

From a food standpoint, mussels cooked in beer are one of my favorites. Sausages, pommes frites, and countless other seafood are delicious, too. You also can't forget about a huge array of chocolate and pastries for dessert.

So I raise a glass to my grandmother today with some tasty choices for you to try.

Saison Dupont ($10, 750 mL): Golden, citrusy, yeasty, and light-bodied with a touch of hops. An easy one to knock down, and the first Belgian beer I ever tasted.

Chimay Cinq Cents ($11, 750 mL): Peachy, malty, and loaded with green herbs and spices. While on the richer side, it is well-balanced with zestiness and refreshment.

Ommegang Dubbel Abbey Ale ($10, 750 mL): This is a sort of New World take on an Abbey-style ale, brewed with licorice, coriander, and orange peel. Very refreshing despite 8.5% abv and a fine way to usher yourself out of the winter.

Domaine des Quatres Routes Muscadet ($14): I had to throw a wine in somewhere, and this light-yet-creamy Loire Valley white wine makes a great partner with steamed mussels (mentioned above as a Belgian food staple) or clams.

Belgin Speciale Dry Gin & Dry Hop Gin (about $25 each): I would put the Speciale up against any of the larger brands. 17 different botanicals are used, but I definitely notice the cloves, thyme, and cardamom in this. Very clean and fragrant. The Dry Hop Gin adds a substantial amount of Belgian hops to the recipe, resulting in a fuller-bodied gin with a pleasant bitterness. The Dry Hop can be consumed either in a cocktail or on its own. 

Enduring The Big Game and Joe Buck: How To Drink On Super Bowl Sunday

(Warning: Contains some football and other sports content)

Long before I became interested in alcoholic beverages, I was a severe sports nerd. I still follow sports, but it doesn't consume my life as it once did. The days of watching a hockey game go into five overtimes on a Wednesday in February are over; I value sleep far more than my desire to stay up for a game. That being said, I have still been hooked on one sport and that is professional football.

Yeah, I know. The sport isn't perfect these days, and truthfully none of them are. Football game flow is choppier now and off-field transgressions are always in the spotlight. Basketball games come to a screeching halt with two minutes left in a half. Baseball can take forever since there is no clock. Major college sports is driven by the quest for the dollar. I get it, trust me. But with its ease of television viewing, ability to wager (where legal) and play fantasy games, I can't resist the call of the National Football League. 

So this little sporting event viewed by gazillions of people is being played on Sunday evening that I shouldn't really mention by name or some NFL executive's minion will beat down my door and give me a scolding, a fine, and perhaps take one of my children away as a penalty (Hint: it rhymes with "Duper Hole"). But this Sunday's championship largely isn't watched for the game itself (unless you live in Atlanta or a state north of Connecticut). Instead, we have large gatherings of friends, family, coworkers, and maybe even a few enemies. We watch the funny commercials and movie trailers. We have "square pools" and friendly wagers. We have tons of food and drink at the ready, because if you are getting started when the pregame shows are on, this is a 12-hour event for you.

This man hates your team. Image credit: Twitter @DrunkJoeBuck

Ah, drink you say? Indeed I do, because for roughly five hours, you have to hear Joe Buck, Fox Sports Lead Announcer, slight your team on Sunday (C'mon...you believe he hates your team with his commentary, no matter which team you root for). You can go in any direction you want: beer, wine or spirit. The key here is to get something you don't have to think about too much. Remember, you are likely at a casual party or focused intently on the game, eating many different things. Your party foods might be along the lines of nachos, pizza, wings, burgers, or pulled pork/barbecue just to name a few favorites.

I tend to favor low-alcohol beers, anything less than 6.0% abv and fruity and/or acidic wines low in tannin. Want a few recommendations? I have them for you below. Whether your team is in the game or you don't care about football, enjoy yourself this Sunday and as always...drink responsibly. 

If you are a beer person, rooting for New England: 

• Berkshire Brewing Co. (Massachusetts) Steel Rail Extra Pale Ale ($6, 22 oz. bottle). This is the brewery's flagship product; it is malty and rich, but not crazy-high in alcohol at 5.2%. A good match with a simple burger.

If you are a beer person, rooting for Atlanta:

• Pontoon Brewing Co. (Georgia) No Pants Pilsner ($9/six-pack). If you prefer a Lager style, this pine-scented Southern Pilsner is very refreshing, smooth, and easy-drinking, great with a plate of wings.

If you are a beer person who doesn't care about the game at all:

• Ommegang (New York) Game of Thrones: Iron Throne ($10, 25.4 oz bottle). Sit back and watch the chaos and squirming from afar while you sip on this Belgian-style Pale Ale from Cooperstown, NY. That's right...I recommended a beer from the Baseball Hall of Fame location for a football game.

If you are a wine person, here's what we are tasting at the store this afternoon from 2:00-5:00pm:

• Andrew Murray Vineyards Santa Maria Valley Viognier, (about $20). This white grape traditionally grown in the Rhone Valley of France has a second home in Santa Barbara County, California. Andrew Murray's expression is citrusy, floral, and has a honey-drizzled peach flavor. Great for Buffalo or "Hot & Honey" style wings.
• Monti Guidi Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Riserva ($15). When the Montepulciano grape shows its best, it is a fruity, dry red wine. Flavors of sour cherries and blackberry jam with a touch of black licorice. Two years in barrel increased the wine's body and softens the tannins. Perfect for a sausage and pepper sandwich or just a slice of cheese pizza.
• Bodegas Ateca "Atteca" Garnacha ($16). This Garnacha from Aragon, Spain is very full-bodied with soft caramelized red fruit peppery spice. I like this with a plate of loaded nachos.
• The Federalist Mendocino County Zinfandel, Bourbon-Barrel Aged ($21). Zinfandel when made as a serious red wine is plush, soft, and very fruity/jammy. After the wine is fermented and aged as normal, it is transferred to used Bourbon barrels for six months to impart extra cherry and vanilla flavor. Even though the abv registers a whopping 15.5%, you don't even feel the fire from the alcohol. Great with pulled pork or brisket BBQ.

If your team is victorious:

• Oban 14 Year Old Single Malt Scotch ($80): Treat yourself to what I feel is the most balanced flagship product of any distillery. It has just the right amount of fruitiness, malt, spice, and smoke. Congratulations to you! 

 If your team failed:

• Water (Free, from the tap): Rehydrate and go to bed. No need to wake up the next morning both hung over and a loser.