Tired Of The Heat? Turn To The Old World For Help

The dog days of summer have officially arrived. Independence Day is long in the rearview mirror, and it has been friggin’ hot outside ever since. Fortunately when we want to avoid crowds at the beach, the kiddie pool and the sprinkler have come in quite handy. The afternoon popsicle or Boston Cream Donut Klondike Bar hasn’t been too shabby of an option either. As for a glass of wine? Put those heavy, high-alcohol reds and rich, oaky whites away and join me on the side of Old World refreshment.

A non-alcoholic requirement for you this summer.

These sweltering days call out for some good old-fashioned acidity, a critical component of wine but it is also the aspect of lemonade or unsweetened iced tea that livens up your palate and gets your mouth watering (also a good thing in the heat so you get something to eat to keep your energy up).

We also need something unoaked, so all of the fruitiness and acidity stands out. Wines aged in oak are round, textured, and pleasant to enjoy most times, but they will tire out your palate real fast since the acidity tends to be muted or in some cases non-existent.

Low alcohol also helps here, too. We don’t want a high-abv wine (basically, anything 14.0% and up) to dehydrate us. Additionally, higher alcohol wines, in general, tend to be lower in acidity. Old World wines from Europe skew in the direction we are looking for. The growing season is typically shorter than New World regions with many cooling influences to preserve acidity and keep potential alcohol levels lower, but the Old World gives you plenty of vibrant flavors and aromas to keep your senses interested while being boiled in the dead of summer..

The following flight is Tony-tested, Tony-approved. If you don’t see any of the producers, look for wines from these regions or made from these grape varieties as acceptable substitutes. Of course, you can also get in touch with specific questions. My office is always open. So get a good chill on these and go to town!

Les Vignerons de Florensac Picpoul de Pinet ($13): Picpoul is the grape you never knew you needed until you try it. Despite over 300 sunny days per year in Southern France, this white grape not only thrives, but it displays an incredible amount of zest with a full citrus bowl of fruit and hint of fresh herbs on the nose. On the palate, there is a minerally quality to it and a long, lemony finish. It’s a terrific alternative to both Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon Blanc that also pairs well with delicate white fish.

Argiolas Vermentino di Sardegna Costamolino Vendemmia 30 ($16): Even on the warm island of Sardinia, the white grape Vermentino has adapted to the harsh climate beautifully. Vermentino has great texture, but it is balanced by a streak of natural acidity that comes from Mediterranean island viticulture. This wine has a great combination of lemon, peach, and tropical fruits with a saline character on the finish. This is the 30th vintage of the Costamolino, and Argiolas keeps knocking it out of the park with this wine. Perfect partner with shellfish and makes for an interesting alternate to unoaked Chardonnay.

90+ Cellars Cotes de Provence Rosé ($12): A classic blend of southern French red grapes Grenache and Cinsault, both of which give fruity wines with plenty of acidity and a delicate color since neither grape has particularly thick skins. When these red grapes are used to make a rosé, there is a fun crossover of white wine flavors (grapefruit, nectarine) and red wine flavors (strawberry, watermelon). Throw in a slightly herbaceous nose and salty palate, and you have a steal on your hands while getting a good foundation of what Provence Rosé is all about..

127 Days of Food and Beverage, In Pictures

For the past 127 life-altering days, the main goal around here has simply been to keep everyone’s physical and mental health as strong as it can be. As any of you can attest to daily it isn’t easy to deal with, but hopefully we can all find some pockets of time to be able to sit back and appreciate what we have. During these times of quarantine/lockdown/social distancing, I have always been able to count on Friday Pizza & Movie Night, takeout dinners to support a local restaurant once per week, and the Sunday Cocktail & Appetizers right here at home. Of course, there is the occasional Thursday Happy Hour on our deck with oversized chess, checkers, and “four-in-a-row,” or even the Tuesday night where I decide, “screw it…I’m getting a beer.”

Seeing as I haven’t shared anything with you all in a while, I figured now is as good a time as any to do so. I have taken some of my favorite moments of food and beverage experiences over the last 3+ months to help you get caught up. Think of it as a “Best Of” mini-guide to help you the next time you are looking to cook something up or pick up something new at your local liquor mart.

Drink from the fire hose, and feel free to share what you have tried since March…I’d love to hear about it! In the meantime, hang in there and be good to one another.

Local Oysters with Bacon Butter

I normally go for raw oysters, but the technique of using a bed of hot rock salt was amazing.

Garlic Scape Pizza with Proscuitto

You need to try a garlic scape.

Misty Cove Sauvignon Blanc

It’s like drinking passionfruit lemonade. No other wine I ever had went down easier.

Bodegas Garzon Cabernet Franc Reserva

Ever try a wine from Uruguay? This is a great place to start. Loaded with berries and spices.

Pulled Pork Sandwiches

One of my favorite pastimes is taking a carcass and cooking it over wood and charcoal for several hours.

Chicken Shawarma

A new adventure for me, using marinated boneless skinless chicken thighs held together with red onions and metal skewers led to a tasty meal in a pita.

Strawberry Beer Coolers

Not a bad little beer cocktail!

Cabernet Franc Vine

These are doing much better than our Gruner Veltliner vines. More than anything, I’m just thrilled they are alive

Wines of Dry Creek Vineyard

Had a fun virtual tasting, learning the winery’s story and philosophy. I contend their Chenin Blanc is one of the best values on the market for any wine.

Pink French 75

Gin, sparkling rosé, simple syrup, and a squeeze of lemon

Grilled Vegetable Bounty

Pick up as many veggies as your arms can carry and grill the lot of them.

Brisket pizza

Because that’s what you make out of the leftovers from…

Smoked Beef Brisket

Not bad for an Italian boy from Brooklyn.

Oven-Fried Eggplant Pizza

Crispy, salty goodness.

Maple Bacon Donuts

Greatest Wife In The World calls, I haul.

Michel Schlumberger Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

Did a virtual tasting for an old friend, featuring this wine. A really well-made Pinot Noir that deserves your attention.

French and Italian Rosé

Campuget is from southern France, while the Planeta is from Sicily. Priced about the same and they may look similar, but the flavors are totally different. This is why you taste wine side-by-side.

Sancerre

This is the Greatest Wine In The World, didn’t you know?

"Wine Diamonds"

Sometimes in an unfiltered white wine, you may see these harmless calcium deposits at the bottom of the glass. Especially in a wine like…

Domaine a Deux Touraine Sauvignon

A zesty, yet full-bodied Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley that has incredible creamy-citrusy finish.

Château Charrier Bordeaux

Everyday red Bordeaux wines have been so good lately. 2018 is shaping up to be a really good vintage.

Burgundian Grape Varieties

Did a virtual tasting where we discussed the ins and outs of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Pacific Pinot is a fantastic way to get to know the grape for less than $20, while the Louis Jadot wines are a great way to get introduced to individual villages and communes within Burgundy.

Celery Gimlet

I dare you to find a better way to awaken the appetite. Muddled celery, lime, and simple syrup shaken with good quality gin.

I Love It When A Wine Dinner Comes Together

This past Friday, I had the pleasure working with the fine folks at Flanders Fish Market on their 18th Annual Oyster & Wine Dinner. Now, I have had experience with wine dinners, but never on this level of scale; 76 hungry people were ready for not only an outstanding meal, but also a high-quality presentation about wine and aquaculture. In the 2+ years I have been writing on Flight School, it came to my attention that I never discussed just how a wine dinner gets done, so here is your chance to know what goes on behind the scenes. So here we go!

The amount of planning that goes into these dinners is astounding. In order for an event like this to be successful, planning is essential. Many questions are going to be asked internally. From the perspective of Flanders, can they justify using the large room at the restaurant? How many staff members will they have? How will they configure the tables? What will the menu be and which order will the dishes be presented? That is just a few right off the top. Then comes availability of guest speakers. Flanders has someone speak about aquaculture in general and oysters in particular. Typically, The Boss at Divine Wine has done this event, but he had a scheduling conflict, which led to me being the next man up.

With the foundation set, now comes promotion…we have to have guests! Flanders did a bunch on their end in regard to the marketing of the Oyster Dinner. It’s not just about some blanket approach to securing attendees. They are calling customers who have come to past events, but it is also great to have new faces. Email, Facebook, and simple old-school word-of-mouth all do the job fine here. Plus, the event typically takes place at the same time every year, so there’s consistency and an expectation. That’s how you get to do this eighteen years running.

Now while Flanders is running the show with food, The Boss and I are coming up with what will work for wines. A new wine comes into our inventory? Let’s see if we can sensibly have it work. What else do we already have on our shelves? What do we need to order? These are just questions that come up to just get a wine in. We also had to make some assumptions based on ingredients in the dishes and without tasting the courses ahead of time, but we did meet with both the Head Chef and General Manager to taste and discuss how the food and wine will come together.

Notes on pairing some wines with the killer menu…which I left at home, but no matter. The show still went on.

We have to take into consideration how spicy or bitter some foods will be; a wine’s sweetness or acidity can balance these factors, while tannins can amplify them and ruin the experience. With this being an oyster dinner, we also have to account for the preparation of the oyster itself; raw oysters are delicate, but still have some texture. There are also six different types of raw oysters, all of which have different flavors, so we need something to pull it all together. German Riesling with just a touch of sweetness ought to do the trick. Grilled oysters have some weight, especially with butter, so we went with a white Bordeaux blend. A rich pasta like Pappardelle and fried oysters have even more body, so we leaned New World with a Chenin Blanc from Dry Creek Vineyard.

A smoked oyster with green vegetables and pickling is a very complex grouping of flavors, so we went out of the box with a Vermentino from Corsica; Vermentino has some herbaceous flavors and aromas, but also an oily texture and can act like Sauvignon Blanc in leaner examples or Chardonnay in fuller-bodied styles. Braciole is definitely going to have a richness to it, but prosciutto and oysters liven the dish up and we have a bitter green in broccoli rabe. We are trying something a little different with Cabernet Franc, even though the obvious answer could be a Sangiovese-based Tuscan red. Cabernet Franc from Uruguay (an emerging wine region) is ripe but not too heavy on the palate. We’re giving this a try as it will make for fun discussion. Bombolonis are upscale donut holes and yuzu is a Japanese fruit that tastes like oranges and peaches had a baby together. A dessert wine from Southwest France made primarily of the honey-like Semillon ought to be outstanding with this dessert.

So…got all that? Good. Now let’s gather eight cases of wine, tasting and order sheets, and wine accessories like corkscrews and drip-stoppers and get set up for a hungry crowd of 76.

With any wine dinner I have ever done, I love starting with a sparkling aperitif wine. If you ever want to guarantee getting things off to a good start, give a crowd some bubbles, because I have never seen an unhappy face with a glass of sparkling wine. Plus, it is a great way to allow the back of the room to finish coordinating the timing of courses as well as getting that first plate ready, which was this beauty right here:

There better be a plate of raw oysters at an oyster dinner, right? Now…this was not my area of expertise, but fortunately Flanders Fish brought in a guest speaker to talk aquaculture. You can tell he is passionate about the topic, because this is the least amount of blur I could get in a picture of him schooling us all in the sustainable farming of oysters.

Atlantic oysters tend to be smaller in size, briny and taste like the sea, while Pacific oysters have a sweeter, meatier profile; I learned something new while sipping the 50 Degrees Riesling. It was also pretty awesome to discover that with each sip of the wine with a taste of each oyster, a different flavor was left behind on my palate (something the crowd confirmed as well). One pairing left a grapefruit flavor, another apricot jam-like sweetness, another amplified the saline qualities, while yet another left a minerally/stony sensation.

Now, while we are hamming it up during presentation of one plate, another is being worked on in the kitchen. It takes considerable coordination to get 76 plates out in a timely fashion. Meanwhile, my job is to keep the conversation flowing; talking wine, answering questions, and generally “filling air time” during transitions from cleanup to the next dish where possible. Also from a service standpoint at these wine dinners, I am typically served first so I can taste components of the dish with the wine. This way, I can prepare for feedback, because going through my head are these kinds of thoughts:

“…people are going to notice the rosemary with the grilled oyster right away with the wine…”

“…what happens if I taste the pasta with the Chenin Blanc on its own vs. with the fried oyster? Will we lose anything in the overall effect?”

“…the smokiness of the oyster in the salad is really enhanced by this Corsican wine. People will either love that or hate it. But it seems like the wine pairs beautifully with the salad without the oyster…made the wine taste fruity and the tarragon in the dressing popped…”

“…the Cabernet Franc fades behind the braciole…I forgot to account for the pine nuts and raisins in the stuffing…maybe Southern Italy would have worked best here with a Primitivo from Puglia…”

“…we nailed the dessert pairing…can’t wait to talk about this…”

By the way, I spoke these thoughts out loud once our attendees provided their opinions and commentary on the pairings. As the one doing the most interaction with the room, not only do I have to be prepared to speak about the wines themselves, but I have to react quickly and intelligently, make my notes, and most of all be transparent about the food and wine experience for each dish. I have to anticipate questions. I have to be prepared for which sensations will be off-putting to some that could be amazing for someone else. 76 unique palates, all picking up something different across six courses…that’s a lot of impressions being made!

Here’s another thing that I didn’t account for…acoustics of the room! I initially did not realize the folks in the back were having a hard time hearing me, so I started to move around the center of the room rather than stand up front, especially after going around the tables to see how everyone was doing; I wanted to get feedback on the fly so I could make adjustments to my presentation as necessary.

After what felt like continuous talking for three-and-a-half hours, it all came to a close and we sent 76 people home happy and feeling like they got their money’s-worth for the evening. And once everyone heads out, it’s time to clean up, gather up any leftover wine, clear away any other utensils and service items, and arrange the tables and chairs in the room back to the way it was for regular service in the restaurant.

It’s an awesome experience to present the potential of different food and wine combinations, and Friday night reminded me just how much work goes into making a wine dinner successful. I hope I was able to give you a glimpse into the preparations that go into having it all come together. Get in touch if you have any questions!

*Big thanks to Chef Liv, GM Jennaya, Mr. Paul Formica, Will (who represented Fishers Island) and the entire staff at Flanders Fish Market who busted their tails from start to finish to make the 18th Annual Oyster Dinner a memorable one.

Have No Fear...I'm Still Here

The time between Thanksgiving and New Year’s tends be a little hectic, and things have finally slowed down to a more manageable pace. Despite not having posted about booze in a while, trust me…I have been sampling plenty of good stuff and you deserve to know about it.

So today I am keeping it very simple: here’s a three-bottle flight of French wines I have tasted since Thanksgiving that is worth your time, money, and effort to find in your local beverage depot. Three different styles from three different regions of France. Ready…go!

Domaine du Petit Clocher Anjou Blanc ($14): Chenin Blanc continues to be an underrated grape variety, and you get 100% of it here. Lemon curd flavors and a fleshy texture are countered by a zing of acidity to balance things out. A solid way to introduce yourself to the Loire Valley’s style of Chenin Blanc.

Pascal Aufranc Chénas Vignes de 1939 ($16): The “Cru” level wines of Beaujolais have always been some of my favorite light reds as they have more substance than village-level Baeujolais and definitely more depth than the candy-like Nouveau. This wine is made from 80 year old vines, featuring violet aromas, vibrant strawberry fruit, and a stony/earthy character with gentle tannins.

Chateau d’Arcins Haut-Medoc ($25): A 50-50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot., this wine shows textbook blackberry and cedarwood flavors and aromas with noticeable tannin and acid that are synonymous with Bordeaux from the Left Bank. The wine I had was from the 2014 vintage, which is a damn fine year for Bordeaux, but you may need to let the wine air out a bit to soften (pour this into a decanter and let it sit for a couple of hours before drinking). With time, the texture becomes more plush, the blackberry fruit seems riper and more powerful, and a dark chocolatey note seems to come out on the finish.

What Are You Bringing To The Table?

It’s good to be back writing again after a lengthy layoff, and what better time to jump back in than to do it with Thanksgiving coming up. Last year, I put together a nice little Thanksgiving guide for you, but I can’t just mail in my first post in two months.

So I pose the question to you…what are you bringing to the table? Whether you are hosting or traveling, you are doing something to contribute this Thanksgiving, right? Of course you are, and perhaps you don’t know what to go for or you find yourself needing a change from the usual.

I will be honest…you can bring just about any beverage of your choosing and it will be fine. Seriously! The beauty of the Thanksgiving feast is that you have a lot of different things to choose from. Turkey itself is fairly mild and many wines will work fine. Sometimes the challenge can be strong flavors; maybe you have a lot of herbs and greens as your sides. Cranberry sauce is sweet and sour. What if you are frying or charcoal-smoking your turkey? Here are some guidelines to help you find the right wine for your holiday table.

Skip the “big” wines”

Cabernet Sauvignon and Nebbiolo have a lot of tannins, acids, and power. They overwhelm just about anything on your table. Additionally, oaky Chardonnay (particularly from the New World) will create bitter flavors on your palate. Save these wines for after dinner if you really like them.

Skip the acidic wines

Sauvignon Blanc can be aggressively acidic and feel thin and tart on your palate with all the rich foods, however acidic wines with some texture can be a very good match. Instead, lean on a white Bordeaux, which typically has Sauvignon Blanc, with some Sémillon blended in. Sémillon has a soft, honeyed texture that tamps down the piercing acids Sauvignon Blanc. Chateau Lamothe de Haux ($15) is consistently a good example.

Go classic: Pinot Noir or Gamay

Pinot Noir’s liveliness, fruitiness, and silky texture are great for Thanksgiving. The baking spices and earthiness that comes through in this grape matches particularly well. I tend to lean on Pinot Noir from Oregon or even Chile; both regions give a nice balance of the aspects I mentioned above. Additionally, Gamay from Burgundy, which you will often find as Beaujolais is lighter and fruitier than Pinot Noir and virtually no tannin. Louis Latour released a blend of these two grapes (85% Gamay, 15% Pinot Noir, $15) that to me is the ultimate Thanksgiving wine.

If you smoked your turkey…

Time to go for something a little more intense than Pinot Noir and Gamay, which are delicate and will fade behind a smoked turkey. Here is a spot to try a Zinfandel, Grenache/Syrah blend, or South African red blend. Zinfandel is plush and jammy, low in tannin but full-bodied and able to stand up to the stength of smoking. A southern French red blend (such as the $13 Mas Sauvaire from the Languedoc region) would work here, too. A.A. Badenhorst’s Secateurs ($15) is another fine option if you want to explore South Africa.

Be daring: Go with an aromatic white

Pinot Gris and Gewurztraminer are noble grapes in Alsace, with fruity/floral and exotic flavors and aromas. The richness of Alsace Pinot Gris is a great choice. Gewurztraminer has full-bodied tropical fruit flavors and can be very good with a ham if you have guests that don’t do turkey. Viognier is a luxurious white Rhone variety that offers similar aromas to Riesling but with more body and weight. Even better…try a blend of some of these varieties! Willm “Gentil” is a noble white Alsace blend ($13) and Korta “Irune” ($16) from Chile is Viognier, Riesling, and Sauvignon Blanc. Either would be a lot of fun at the table.

Cheat and bring bubbly

No one refuses Champagne, Prosecco, or sparkling wine of any kind. No one, I’m convinced. Plus it is a great way to start the day. Champagne Aubry ($38) is very reasonably priced with an orange zest and brioche character. Mionetto Prosecco ($12) is fun and fruity, suitable for drinking on its own or for making a cocktail. If you don’t have a Champagne budget, try a “Cremant” such as Bailly Lapierre’s Blanc de Noirs ($19).

Try Sherry

Sherry is great for any hard-to-pair meal. Heck, the Spanish drink it with their tapas, since you have so many different foods coming. It has a salty, nutty character with just the right amount of texture. An Amontillado Sherry such as Emilio Lustau’s Los Arcos ($15) is a fine way to introduce yourself to Sherry if you have never tried it before.

No need to go super-expensive…but go ahead if you want to!

I mean, you can if you want to and there is something satisfying about enjoying a high-end wine at holiday time, but chances are higher that Thanksgiving is going to be quantity-driven. I am helping you keep costs down by keeping my recommendations under $20 where possible.

With that, I wish you a very Happy Thanksgiving. Cheers!

It's International Grenache Day!

There is a lot of wine to drink out there and you have countless grape varieties and regions of the world to choose from when you go into your local beverage depot. Today marks one of those days where a grape variety is campaigning for your attention, and that grape is Grenache.

Grenache is a red grape whose origins trace back to Spain (also known as “Garnacha”). It is believed to have roots within the 14th century Kingdom of Aragon, which included regions like Catalonia, Rioja, Sardinia (Italy) and Roussillon (France). Grenache has thin skins so it doesn’t make wines of deep color, but they are packed with richness and fruitiness giving the wines made from this grape versatility.

Grenache is often blended with Syrah in Côtes du Rhône reds, tempering the aggressive tannins, acids, and peppery spice. It is also the base for the great wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and its surrounding “Crus” like Gigondas and Vacqueyras.

Garnacha can be found in many Rioja wines, where it is blended with Tempranillo. Further east, Grenache shows up in the bold wines of Priorat, where it is blended with old vine Carignan, and sometimes Syrah or Cabernet Sauvignon. Sometimes, Garnacha will be bottled on its own in Spanish examples from regions like Navarra and Campo de Borja.

Wineries in Paso Robles and Santa Barbara County, California make Côtes du Rhône-style blends based on Grenache as well. You will also find Grenache in many Spanish rosé wines, and as a component of southern French rosés. Australia has dry-farmed old bush vine Grenache wines that are dense, powerful, and packed with black fruit flavors. Additionally, you will find Grenache in Sardinia, better known as “Cannonau” over there. The style of wines from this Italian island tend to give you caramelized red fruit flavors and spices.

So how about some options so you, too, can celebrate International Grenache Day? If none of these do it for you, well…pick up a Grenache of your choosing and enjoy (whether you open it today or some other time).

Olivier & Lafont Gigondas ($23): Let it be known that Gigondas is one of my favorite red wine regions of the world. It offers consistency of quality at a fraction of the price of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but offers a little more depth than a wine marked “Côtes du Rhône.” Most Gigondas wines start in the low-$20s, so this example gets you into the wildflower and herb-scented reds of this appellation at a lower barrier to entry.

Evodia Garnacha (can be found as low as $9): This wine has long delivered good quality, 100% Garnacha ever since I started getting into wine. It is full-bodied and fruity (strawberry) with a touch of baking spice. Simple yet pleasurable, this will be very satisfying on a cool autumn evening.

Argiolas Cannonau di Sardegna Costera ($17): Argiolas is one of my favorite Sardinian wine producers as I have never been disappointed by a bottle. Argiolas ages the wine in new French oak to add a nutmeg/cinnamon spice to the raspberry and black cherry fruit. A long leathery finish makes this wine a terrific value.

Bonny Doon Vineyard Clos de Gilroy Grenache, Central Coast ($15): Randall Grahm is one of the earliest “Rhone Rangers” of California, and his work with the Grenache variety has been well-documented for decades. With small percentages of Mourvedre and Syrah added for more dark fruit, spice, and savory character, this is a fine way to be introduced to a New World Grenache.

Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Picpoul de Pinet

We are smack-dab in the middle of summer. This time of year is fantastic for experimenting and exploring beverages of all kinds. Cocktails of all flavors, aromas, and colors are probably giving you satisfying refreshment. The beer drinkers are loving the white ales, hefeweizens, and IPAs, all of which give you the exotic tropical fruit and zesty citrus flavors. When it comes to wine, I know that I have been acting as a rosé champion lately, but honestly an unoaked, dry style of any color will have bright, fresh fruit flavors that pair wonderfully with a warm summer evening on the patio. So that brings me to a simple, casual white wine that hails from the gorgeous Mediterranean coastline of France: Picpoul de Pinet [PEEK-pool duh pin-AY].

Picpoul is one of those grapes that you just don't find anywhere except for the Languedoc region in southern France, except for a handful of outliers. It loves the warm, dry climate, as well as the 300+ sunny days per year in the Languedoc. Picpoul grapes are prone to mildew, so cool, humid parts of the world won't allow for fully healthy grapes. Hot areas like southern Spain or countries of the southern hemisphere would essentially "bake" the acid and delicate flavors right out of the grapes. This is why Picpoul is right at home in southern France.

On our honeymoon, The Greatest Wife In The World and I stayed further East of the Picpoul de Pinet wine region in Provence, but I wouldn't be surprised if its wine ended up in our carafe when we ordered the "House Wine." (Image credit: Laithwaite's UK)

Something else to love about Picpoul is that it is very inexpensive. You will find many examples right at the $10 price point. It ripens so easily at its homeland and requires minimal handling or oak barrel treatment, that it simply does not cost much to produce...and your wallet wins because of that. Some producers might use neutral barrels to add some texture and soften the acids of Picpoul, but this is not common. You typically want to find the most recent vintage as Picpoul should be consumed within a year or two of the vintage (there is plenty of 2017 wines that need a home right now).

The traditional bottle for Picpoul de Pinet

Picpoul sounds like a little French sprite has come to offer you a magic elixir to beat the heat or match with raw oysters. It's a fun summertime wine that should not be overlooked when you are looking to restock your wine fridge. Picpoul is also a great alternative to Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio when you are looking for something different. The traditional bottle is in the longer "flute" style bottle, which most customers associating with sweet German Rieslings, but rest assured these wines don't show any perceptible sweetness. I have some examples for you to try. There are many small-production producers that will be worth trying, but these three should be available in most markets due to their solid distribution networks.

La Chapelle du Bastion ($10, Imported by Monsieur Touton): Crisp, clean, and lemony with a touch of minerality. You don't need any more details than that. Simply refreshing.

Moulin de Gassac Picpoul de Pinet ($12, Imported by Winebow): If you are looking for a Picpoul with more flesh and texture to it, look no further than Domaine Gassac, a well-respected wine producer in southern France. Fruit flavors tend more towards peaches and nectarines rather than citrus, but it is still unoaked and made with organic grapes.

Tablas Creek Vineyard Picpoul Blanc, Paso Robles ($27, price direct from winery website): I offer this one up to show you how a winery can stretch the limits with the Picpoul grape, as well as a non-French example. This wine has more of a tropical fruit profile when compared to the previous two, with ginger and herbs accompanying the fruit. Paso Robles in general is doing lots of interesting work with the white Rhône and Languedoc varieties, and Tablas Creek has stepped up when it comes to the Picpoul grape. A fine partner with exotically spiced Thai-style seafoods

Ring Around The Rosé

A couple of weeks ago, the Divine Wine Emporium hosted a huge rosé event outside on the deck. In a little New England shore town, we welcomed quite the crowd as we opened eighteen bottles from wineries located all over the globe. I was lucky enough to have a table of my own, where I poured five rosés and it was a great time. There is nothing better than showing somebody something new.

We had our attendees score the wines they tried on a scale of 1 to 5, with 5 being outstanding and 1 being, well...pour-down-the-drain-worthy. Recently, we were able to compile all the data and now I have some winners to share with you. The top five rosé wines are listed below (along with an honorable mention). If you have not been jumping into rosé wines, you now have no excuse. Without further ado, here they are, all priced between $13 and $19.

Survey says...Drink Rosé

Honorable mention: Hillersden New Zealand Rosé

This did not get enough votes as not enough people had the chance to try this, but those that did gave it high marks, and deservedly so. Made from 100% Pinot Noir, Hillersden's example shows flavors and aromas that I can only describe as a berry salad with orange zest shaved on top. This may not be available in all markets, but if you can find it, snap it up.

Words to live by from Charles Smith, Winemaker

5) Charles & Charles Washington Rosé

This is a wine stew (a term coined by my father any time more than four grapes are in a blend) of Syrah, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Mourvèdre (popular for structure in red wines), Cinsault (adds fruitiness and acidity to Rhône blends), and Counoise (a peppery variety that appears in the wines of Châteauneuf-du-Pape). The result is a fruity, refreshing, and complex wine with candied citrus and strawberry the primary flavors. 

4) Gérard Bertrand Cote des Roses (Languedoc, France)

A fancy-shaped bottle with a rose etched on the bottom, the wine inside is legit. Bertrand makes a complete range of wines from the everyday to the cellar-worthy, all acting as a great way to introduce yourself to the Old World if you are traditionally a California/New World wine fan. Classic strawberry, watermelon, and a hint of grapefruit gives a mouthwatering sensation on the finish of this Rosé.

3) La Belle en Rosé Sancerre (Loire Valley, France)

This is actually a label from the 90+ Cellars family of wines. In the region of Sancerre, Sauvignon Blanc is dominant, but when it comes to reds and rosés, it is Pinot Noir that shines. Coming from a cool climate in the Loire Valley, the flavors become more citrusy (think ruby red grapefruit here) than berrylike, and a minerally, almost smoky character. Finding a Sancerre Rosé for under $20 can be a challenge, so the La Belle is a fantastic way to be introduced to the style.

The reds from Nerello Mascalese can be incredibly powerful, smoky, earthy, and savory. As a Rosé, it's a completely different experience.

2) Tasca d'Almerita Regaleali Le Rosé (Sicily, Italy)

This has become a new favorite at Divine Wine; even before the event it sells out regularly. A Sicilian Rosé made from the local Nerello Mascalese grape, this is very full-bodied and fruity with cherry and raspberry dominating the palate, accompanied by some sweet spices like anise. This is an all-seasons rosé.

1) Domaine Houchart Côtes de Provence (Provence, France)

This wine has been a classic at Divine Wine; it has been at the store longer than I have been here in Connecticut as it consistently delivers on a great combination of delicacy, fruit, acidity, complexity, and long-lasting finish. Whether it is herbed shellfish, tomato-based salads, or a warm summer day on the deck, it does not matter...Houchart is a crowd-pleaser.

What We Are Drinking In February

Another round of brutal wintertime sickness put me behind the 8-ball once again when it comes to sharing some fun drinking info. However, a lot has developed behind the scenes where I am going to be busy in the month of February. This is thrilling for me as it will help me push through the rest of this awful winter with some tremendous events and classes.

If you are in Southeastern Connecticut, you won't want to miss these.

Frederick Wildman 2016 Burgundy Tasting (Trade only), February 8th

Frederick Wildman & Sons is an importer/distributor of fine wines, who will be hosting an event in Boston showcasing wines of Burgundy's 2016 vintage. Winemakers will be on-hand, so this will be a fun one. You will certainly get a report of the experience from me sometime next week.

Japanese Whisky Class at Divine Wine, February 15th

I will be launching a Japanese whisky session in the store's classroom from 7:00-9:00pm, featuring a range of whiskies acquired by Skurnik Wines & Spirits in 2017. More Japanese whisky products seem to be hitting shelves weekly as it is the fastest-growing whisky category at the moment. This course will expand on basic topics covered in my Whisk(e)y 101 sessions and take a deeper dive into what's happening in Japan. Just $20 per student. You can register by calling (860) 691-1053.

Wine 101 at Divine Wine, Begins February 21st

The Boss himself, Ken Turcotte, will be running his awesome wine foundation course over three consecutive Wednesday nights beginning February 21st, 7:00-9:00pm. Ken has delivered this course to over 1,000 students during the store's 15 years of existence. Taste wines and discuss all aspects of wine from field to bottle in a casual setting. Tuition is $100 for the three-week package, which includes study materials and wines. Call (860) 691-1053 to register and make payment.

Trimbach visits Divine Wine, February 22nd

We are in for a real treat later this month as Jean Trimbach of legendary Alsace wine producer Maison Trimbach, presents a range of wines in the Divine Wine classroom from 7:00-8:30pm. Trimbach has been making exquisite wines since 1626. This is one I am not going to miss. Absolutely FREE to attend, but you can buy wines at the end of the program if you like. Call (860) 691-1053 to RSVP.

Whiskey Advent Calendar Recap: Picking The Favorite Child

I did it. I made it through the entire Whiskey Advent Calendar that I received as the most unbelievable birthday gift. 24 samples have come and gone, displaying a range of styles from all over the world. There was not a bad one in the bunch, each 30mL sample showing different characteristics. Some were driven by the types of grains used, others by distillation techniques, all with various aging levels. Location of the distillery and warehouse even plays into this, too. I touched on the first four that I opened in the beginning of December before holiday life took over, but now after taking diligent notes and processing everything I can share my thoughts on what I tasted. When I told people about the Advent Calendar, I was often asked, "What has been your favorite?"

Here's how I'll answer that question. Each whiskey brings its own expression to the table: lively or rich, sweet or dry, complex or simple, subtle or forceful. The beauty of all the styles of whiskey out there is that there is a time and a place for all of them and they can all be appreciated when placed in proper context. Some might be better suited for a cocktail rather than enjoying neat with a few drops of water. Others may be comforting and soothing in the winter, while some examples might be lighter and more refreshing in the hot months of summer.

What's my favorite whiskey? It is like trying to pick your favorite child. The Greatest Wife In The World and I have the running joke that our favorite child is the one who sleeps the most at night. My favorite whiskey is the one that is making me happy today. It's all about mood and environment.

So let me share which drams stood out the most. There are several products in the calendar that we have either limited or zero access to in the U.S., and they deserve to be discussed based on their individual merits. However, the whiskies in my top six are all either available in the majority of states or have nationwide distribution. Let's run them down below. Special thanks to the Greatest Wife In The World for going to Master of Malt for an amazing gift.

Honorable Mentions (hard or unable to source in the U.S., but fun to share with you in case you encounter any of these in your travels):

Mackmyra Brukswhisky (approx. $49 via Master of Malt): I wrote of this when I first opened the kit. Even after tasting through the 24 whiskies, the Mackmyra still stands out to me. The combination of delicate floral notes on the nose with red berries and ginger on the palate left a positive mark. We need this here in the states.

Millstone 6 Year Old Dutch Whisky (approx. $62 via Master of Malt): This example from the Zuidam Distillery was a limited release (only 637 bottles were made) and never made it to the U.S. This whisky is malty with banana bread and maple syrup on the palate. On the nose, it's candied walnuts, toffee, and creme brulee. Warm and balanced on the finish. FYI...the Millstone 100 Proof Rye is available in the U.S. if you are looking to try something from this producer.

Puni Nova (approx. $62 via Master of Malt): Puni Distillery is located in the far north of Italy, and the young Nova expression has a mash bill of malted barley, malted rye, and malted wheat. Light in color and body, anise, lemons, and cured meats are subtle on the nose. The palate is lively with green herbs and citrus, along a touch of espresso and dark chocolate. Great potential as a summer whiskey or as a base in a cocktail. Puni has some products distributed in California, but it is not widespread yet.

English Whiskey Company Chapter 13 (approx. $90 via Master of Malt): Malt and leather are countered by orange zest and the smell of an old library (just imagine it...you have encountered it before). Dried oranges, malt, and fresh citrus on the palate, which starts off malty and sweet, but finishes lively, spicy, and dry. Origin is St. George's Distillery in Norfolk, England. This was very cool.

Penderyn Welsh Whisky Portwood Finish (approx. $64 via Master of Malt): The Port barrel is noticeable on this killer Welsh whisky from Penderyn. Peach pie, raspberry jam, caramel, and vanilla on the nose. Sweet red and black berries on a rich and full-bodied palate. If you are a fan of Port-finished whisky, then I hope this makes it to the states.

Now for the top six (in no order, all can be had here in the U.S.):

Kavalan ex-Bourbon Oak Single Malt ($115): This Taiwanese producer is gaining a lot of traction in the U.S., with distribution in many states and only gaining a larger footprint. A fragrant whisky with chile peppers, citrus, and an exotic range of savory spices on the nose. On the palate, the spices are there, but finishes like a Bourbon with a vanilla and long toffee-like sweetness. 

Teeling Small Batch Irish Whiskey ($40): Many Irish whiskeys feature unmalted barley, leading to a light and clean profile. Teeling uses a high proportion of malted barley (a la Scotch), and the whiskey spends some time maturing in rum casks. This has a soft and sweet nose, with almond, toasted coconut, apples, and vanilla. On the palate, marshmallows, coconut, pie crust, and chocolate with a full and sweet finish.

The Quiet Man 8 Year Old Single Malt Irish Whiskey ($50): The brand's name comes from the distillery owner's father, who was a bartender in Northern Ireland. For being made from all malted barley, the nose is very clean and fragrant, with floral, citrus, and vanilla cream aromas. On the palate, it is light and gentle with a distinct lemon curd flavor and fresh coconut on the finish. This is incredibly easy to enjoy.

Hudson Manhattan Rye Whiskey ($35): Tuthilltown Spirits in New York's Hudson Valley gives rye whiskey the attention it deserves. Loaded with spicy aromatic intensity, it is like walking into a New York bakery and smelling rye bread. On the palate, it's roasted root vegetables, rosemary, orange peel, nutmeg, and ground black pepper on the finish. At 92 Proof, this is loaded with flavor to make an amazing cocktail. Where's my pastrami sandwich with this?

Whistlepig 10 Year Vermont Rye ($75): Whistlepig continues to gain accolades with newer expressions rye-based whiskies, and deservedly so. This 10 year example takes a stock of Canadian rye that was destined for blending and instead, Whistlepig aged it, finished it in Bourbon barrel, and bottled it at their Vermont property. This is French toast, dates, and fruitcake on the nose, with candied oranges, scones, maple syrup, and baking spices on the palate. Well worth the spend!

Brenne Cuvée Spéciale French Single Malt ($64): When Cognac and Scotch have a baby, you get Cuvée Spéciale from Brenne. The barley is grown in the Cognac region of France, the whisky matures in French oak, then finishes in Cognac casks. The result is a nose of fruitcake, orange peel, and floral notes. The palate has baked pears, green figs, golden raisins, and a warming vanilla finish. Since I happen to be a Cognac fan, this whisky was right in my wheelhouse.

Recovering from a 40-Day Blitz, Part I

This could not be more true about me at this stage of my life.

Well, here we are. It's 2018, and with the way Thanksgiving landed on the calendar this year, there was roughly one extra week leading up to Christmas Day. That's seven more days of rich foods, dessert after lunch, and holiday parties with friends/family/co-workers (I'm already full just writing that last sentence). Additionally, we blew through our budgets for holiday goodies, picking up gifts for others, a roast, baking supplies, booze...whatever it was, December tends to be a time of indulgence among all the cheer and giving.

Who needs resolutions?

Some of you are looking to get back to some healthier eating and drinking patterns if you went too hard the past forty days. Perhaps your body is looking for a vegetable or a salad to help get things right, maybe even some seafood. If this is the case and you are also a wine-drinker, we can restock the cellar with some solid everyday white and red wines that pair well with some of these so-called "detox" foods, yet still offer warmth and satisfaction considering that a large swath of the country remains under Old Man Winter's icy grip.

So as I warm up my writing chops for this year, I'll keep things simple. Two white wines and two red wines are listed below to help you get 2018 started right. It's a new year, so get to know a some new grapes while enjoying some old favorites.

Michel Gassier Cercius ($12): Costières de Nîmes is an outlying region of the Rhône Valley of France, where the bulk of Gassier's wines are labeled. It is a winemaking region that frequently delivers great value in its red wines, and white wines are incredibly cheap. The Cercius is a non-standard blend of Grenache Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc, offering a great balance of texture, body, and mouthwatering acidity that will work with your salads.

L'Ecole No. 41 Old Vine Chenin Blanc, Columbia Valley ($16): This is a great New World take on a Vouvray (Loire Valley) style of Chenin Blanc. Unoaked and fruit-forward, this is a refreshing Chenin Blanc with passionfruit, citrus, and golden apples on the palate with a pleasant floral aroma and a touch of sweetness on the finish. This is going to be tremendous with some sushi or exotically spiced dishes (Thai or Indian cuisine). 

Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais-Villages ($11): This is a versatile old favorite that is great to keep on-hand when you need a light, fruity red. Bursting with red berry fruit, you can enjoy this with sauteed leafy greens like kale and Swiss chard, but it is light enough in tannin where you can also pair this with fish rich in Omega-3s like salmon (FYI...full-bodied, high tannin reds do not mix well with salmon's Omega-3 compounds, leading to a metallic taste in your mouth).

Santa Carolina Pinot Noir Reserva, Maule Valley ($11): Chile is quickly establishing itself as a good source of inexpensive Pinot Noir, a grape that can be difficult to find wallet-friendly sources of good wine. The example from Santa Carolina has plenty of cherry fruit with earthy tones and a spicy finish. If you are a fan of mushrooms and bean-based dishes, this is an easy one to grab.

Building A Case...For A Few More Dollars

Earlier this week, I shared with you an easy strategy for building a case of wine that sought value and quality. Today, we take it to a different level. Assuming you have saved up your schillings, received a bonus, or just feel like spending money on wine, well I have a "version 2.0" guide for you when you are looking to find 12 tasty bottles. Whether you are dropping $10 or $100 a bottle on wine, I am always going to steer you to something that delivers high a quality-to-price ratio.

When you have extra money on-hand for that case, new doors open up not just at higher price points, but it gives you access to regions and styles that just aren't widely available in the $10 range. Here are some points of interest to consider when buying a mixed case of wine when money is less of an object, but not growing on trees by any means.

New Zealand has the highest average selling price per bottle of wine of any winemaking country. While there are some large brands that you can find in the $10-$12 range, there are many that exceed $15. Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Gewurztraminer can all cost you. However, if you like the bold tropical zestiness of Sauvignon Blanc, or the clean, aromatic fruit in Gewurztraminer, now is the time to include a New Zealand wine.

Austrian wines command high prices with the precision and balance that shows in their wines. Grüner Veltliner has become quite popular and doesn't really grow anywhere else in the world, so again while there are some good entry-level wines in the $10-$12 neighborhood, go for a wine from a small producer that has complex citrusy/minerally/peppery flavors.

Wines from Burgundy can be very expensive, partially due to the fact that vineyard land is some of the most expensive in the world. Prime sites in many villages make long-lived wines, but there are also more accessible examples that don't require you to empty your bank account if you want to dive into Burgundy. Try Chardonnay wines from the Mâcon region in the south. Additionally, seek out the wines from a négociant to try any Burgundian region's typical style. Louis Jadot, Joseph Drouhin, and Bouchard Pere et Fils are just a few of the larger examples that you should be able to find for both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

Oregon makes some outstanding wines, with Pinot Noir being the superstar of the Willamette Valley. Finding a good Pinot Noir in the sub-$20 range can be a challenge and many examples from Oregon start at about $20. Oregon tends to strike the right balance of fruitiness and earthiness.

Wines from Napa Valley aren't cheap, and if you like your red blends to be a Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot blend a la Bordeaux, there are plenty to be found in the $20 and over range. If you had been purchasing some "everyday" Bordeaux reds in the $12 price point, shoot for the wines with a defined geography such as "Medoc" or "Saint-Emilion", which will cost a few dollars more, but it will give you a sense of what a wine tastes like when grown from vineyards within a smaller parcel of vineyards.

In the Rhone Valley, it's up to you if you want to shoot for Chateauneuf-du-Pape or Hermitage, as each of those wines will hit you for $40 and way upward in many cases. However, if you reach for some of the lesser-known subregions like "Gigondas" or "Crozes-Hermitage," you will pay a fraction of the price of their more expensive brethren. This is where chatting with your friendly local wine merchant will help you a lot.

In Italy, you can start checking out the great grape of Nebbiolo, famous in the Piedmont region and most notably in the sub-region of Barolo and Barbaresco. Like the two Rhone wines above, they can cost you plenty, but wines labeled "Nebbiolo d'Alba" or "Langhe Nebbiolo" will often encompass vineyards outside of the Barolo and Barbaresco communes, giving you something lighter in body, but more approachable in youth (which means you don't need to stick them in the cellar to evolve and harmonize).

Spanish wine's most popular export to the U.S. is wines from Rioja. Now is a great time to go for the wines with some extended oak aging. Look for wines labeled "Crianza," "Reserva," and "Gran Reserva," all of which will increase in price thanks to the amount of time spent in barrel. The great news about Rioja is that wines are always released ready to drink, needing no further aging if you don't want to stash them in the cellar.

Let's not forget the sparkling wine here, too! I'm not saying you have to shoot on up to Champagne, which is truly a delicious sparkling wine that deserves the recognition it gets. However, if you seek out "Crémant" wines, which are sparkling wines made in non-Champagne French regions the same way they are made in Champagne. A Crémant can be found for roughly half the price of a large Champagne house's flagship non-vintage wine for regions like Burgundy (Bourgogne), Limoux (Southern France), Alsace, and Loire.

If you are a Port or Sherry fan, go for a nice bottle of one of your favorite fortified wines. If you need something versatile to cook with as well as drink, an Amontillado Sherry is a nice buy here. As we approach fall, if you enjoy time in the kitchen there will be some recipes calling for a Port sauce. A Ruby Port is fiery and fruity enough to add flavor, but also a nice warming beverage on a chilly night. You can typically find an example of each Port and Sherry style for around $15. Each style also gives you a good baseline of what to expect from an individual producer if you were to venture into their other styles.

So here's what that case looks like if we take the items discussed above into account with specific products. Additionally, we will refer back to the Value Case we did earlier this week and use that as a springboard into other wines.

Marie-Pierre Manciat Crémant de Bourgogne ($23): A fine sparkling wine made from 100% Chardonnay in sustainable vineyards. Floral with orange and lemon peel aromas, peachy on the palate, and very lively with persistent bubbles. Killer value.

Weingut Loimer, Grüner Veltliner Langenlois ($19): Grüner Veltliner's peppery character is on display, with green apples, minerals, and soft herbs, along with a creamy texture. Finishes dry and refreshing! 

Dog Point Vineyard Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($20): We have been seeing the price of the Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc reach the $18-$19 price point over the last few years. For a buck or two more, it is worth your time and money to try this New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, whose passionfruit and grapefruit character gets a boost of 

Cave de Lugny, Mâcon-Villages La Côte Blanche ($15): The thing I love about the Mâcon region is how it can be a great way to introduce you to Old World Chardonnay, while retaining riper stone fruit and tropical fruit flavors.

Fairview Cape Granite White Blend ($16): I can't help but be an advocate for South African wine. You tried the Tormentoso Chenin Blanc from the Value Case. For a few dollars more, try a white blend of Chenin Blanc, Viognier, and Grenache Blanc for a full-bodied, wildly aromatic wine experience.

Willamette Valley Vineyards Estate Pinot Noir ($25): Fresh red cherry fruit and red plums, with herbs, baking spices, and a touch of smoke. This is a great way to get introduced to an Oregon Pinot Noir if you haven't tried one before. If you have tried one, this has been a consistently good product from vintage to vintage.

Château Lanessan Haut-Medoc ($25, 2014 vintage): Bordeaux feels the impact of vintage variation more than most winemaking regions with its marginal climate. After a string of leaner, more traditional Bordeaux vintages (2011-2013), this 2014 from a solid property located in the upper Medoc peninsula gives you a wine loaded with black cherries and pipe tobacco, thyme, a touch of woody character.

Scavino Langhe Nebbiolo ($20): Nebbiolo's inherent flavors of red cherry fruit and roses are complemented by eucalyptus and tobacco. Nebbiolo can be forceful despite the pale ruby color; it is loaded with tannin and acid meant for long-haul aging, but in this more approachable version, the structural components are as intense thanks to shorter skin contact during fermentation. A great entryway to get to know Nebbiolo from a traditional producer. 

Martin Cendoya Rioja Reserva ($21): Dark berry fruit with earthiness and a noticeable oak component, which smooths out some harsh edges you can get from Tempranillo when it is young. Vanilla and a slight toffee note help illustrate the impact of 14 month barrel aging and additional time in bottle before being released to the market, ready to drink now.

Domaine du Terme Gigondas ($28): I picked this up for my birthday back in December. It is my favorite French red wine region. Neighbor of Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas is based on Grenache, with small percentages of Syrah and Mourvedre added to the blend. Gigondas has offered more stability to me in terms of quality and price, whereas Chateauneuf-du-Pape can be all over the map. Fresh blackerry fruit, violets, and Herbes de Provence, show up in this wine that I really enjoyed on my big day.

Domaine Bousquet Mendoza Malbec Reserva ($16): You got the introductory Malbec in the value case. Go back and get the Reserva, which spent 12 months in oak barrel and see what's different!

Quinta do Noval Fine Ruby Port ($17): A single estate Port (compared to a blend of estates produced by the larger companies), this is an easy one to carry in the cellar if you are a Port fan. Raspberry and blackberry fruit, but warming and well-balanced.

So total is $245. With a 10% discount and Connecticut sales tax, this is a $234.50 case, roughly twice the cost of our Value Case earlier in the week. If you had these 24 bottles lined up in your wine fridge/cellar, I think you are off to a heck of a start! Stay with me as we keep exploring. Send me feedback...let me know if you tasted ANY of these wines as I would love to know what you think.

Until next time...

Building A Case For Value

It's not that often these days where I am actively working the sales floor at the store. However in the past and when I help out on the big holidays at Divine Wine, a customer presents me the following:

"Hi! I would like to buy a case of wine, but I am not sure what I want. Can you help me?"

Yes! This is what I do. It's my livelihood. I always get excited at the opportunity to send customers home with 12 bottles of wine that (hopefully) they will enjoy with friends, family, colleagues, or just by themselves on a random Wednesday night.

Now, there is a key component to the statement above: "I am not sure what I want." In general, wine drinkers know what they like, but in this instance I get the impression that my customers are hesitant to step outside of their comfort zone. After all, they are buying a full case of wine so people are investing their hard-earned dollars in me and my recommendations. Of course if you choose to make your own choices, which you are perfectly capable of doing, I won't treat you as if you were having a touch time choosing a dozen donuts:

No matter whether you decide to choose specific wines on your own or ask me for help, I have a way for you to structure how you go about purchasing a case of wine. For today, I am focusing on the everyday/value bottles. Consider this to be the $120-$150 range when all is said and done. Keep in mind that many retailers will take anywhere from 10-20% off of a purchase of a case of wine with the ability to mix and match how you see fit. Let's dive into some things to consider when building your case from a perspective of seeking value.

Find your brands:

As much as I love to show you something from a small artisanal producer from some remote corner of France, the fact is that your larger, well-known brands will be easy to come by. Additionally, depending on the size of the retail store, their purchasing power will dictate how low they can keep prices. So you might encounter that Alamos Malbec, Blackstone Merlot, Concha y Toro Chilean red blend for a very inexpensive price already, all of which make great house wines or something you can offer a guest at a party who is looking to have something familiar. You can score some of your favorite brands for as little as $7 per bottle in some places. However...

Include some lesser-known regions and grape varieties:

Know what Corbieres is? In context of this post, who cares? Just know that some great Cinsault-based pink wine is being made here for $12.

If you are shopping at a good store offering the combination of knowledgeable and friendly customer service, chances are high that the overwhelming majority of wines on the shelves will be at minimum, drinkable and at best, very exciting. So if you see a red wine from Portugal made with Touriga Nacional for $10, grab it. A rosé from Languedoc, France made with Cinsault for $12? Get it. A South African Chenin Blanc for $10? Go for it. There are tons of examples from Italy and Spain, too. Piedmont and Tuscany get tons of love (and accompanying higher prices to match) in Italy, but Puglia, Sicily, and the Veneto regions can frequently offer you significant value. Additionally, Spain still has an incredible quality-to-price ratio, maybe the best of any country right now. There is a ton to choose from.

Find "declassified" wines from a European producer:

Naming conventions and labeling rules for wines in Europe will often refer to a geography, which is most evident in the wines of France, Italy, Spain, and Portugal. Lets say you have a producer of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, a specific wine zone in the Rhône Valley of France with a set of rules for making wine. Chances are that the same producer might make a wine from a larger area, different grape varieties than are permitted in the "Grand Vin" of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, or less stringent production rules to make a Côtes du Rhône wine, costing you a fraction of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Côtes du Rhône is a broader geographical area with more flexibility in rules for producing wines.

Another example comes from the Loire Valley. Sancerre's white wines are made from 100% Sauvignon Blanc in the Sancerre region. However, if the wine is made from vines outside of Sancerre, or don't adhere to technical aspects like vine age or yield control, then the wine might be labeled "Vin de France Sauvignon Blanc" such as the example below from Domaine de la Perriere.

Both wines are made from Sauvignon Blanc grapes from the same property owner, but the Sancerre is costing you $25. The one labeled Sauvignon Blanc? $10. This is a great way to go value-hunting. It might take a little digging around and a bit of research, but finding this kind of information will help save you several dollars.

Don't forget sparkling wine!

Look, we can't drink Champagne all the time, nor should Champagne and other sparkling wines only be reserved for special occasions. A bottle of bubbly as part of your case is a must-have. Best of all, you can find a fruity sparkling wine like Prosecco, or you can find Cava (Spain's sparkling wine made using Champagne's process, but with native grape varieties) can often be found at a bargain. For less than $15, you can spot one of each without a problem. Then you can pop the cork anytime you see fit, because you will have a bottle on-hand and ready to go, special occasion to celebrate, or not.

Why don't we do this...let's take some of these wines and stick them in the box. Then we'll add a few more, total it up, and you will see how you can build your mixed case of goodies to take home. Prices are approximate, and I will use 10% as the case discount as a conservative estimate. These are all wines I have tried and would recommend to anyone looking for a solid variety pack case that includes many styles of wines.

Mionetto Il Prosecco Brut, $11, a simple, easy-drink bottle of fruity sparkler, great for casual parties and Mimosas.

Fonseca Twin Vines Vinho Verde, $8, Vinho Verde is a light, low-alcohol, slightly fizzy citrusy wine from the northeastern corner of Portugal.

La Petite Perriere Sauvignon Blanc, $10, this is the declassified Sancerre from above

Cantine Paolini Sicilia Pinot Grigio, $10, this Sicilian Pinot Grigio has some flavor to it, with melon and tropical fruit.

Tormentoso Old Vine Paarl (South Africa) Chenin Blanc, $13, try some Chenin Blanc as a Chardonnay alternative, plus a wine from South Africa. A region and a grape that deserves your love and attention.

Domaine Sainte Eugenie Corbieres Rose, $12, an unbelievably fruit-but-dry rose wine from southern France. Provence, for all of its delicate fruit and herbs that I really enjoy, does not have the fruit-forwardness of this wine.

Parolvini Barone Nero Veneto Red Blend (Cabernet Sauvignon, Refosco, Malbec), $12, an interesting blend that includes the native northeastern Italian variety of Refosco, which has a leathery, violet-scented character. It plays so well with the deep, dark fruit of the other two grapes, and it's not every day you see Malbec being grown in Italy.

Azul Portugal Douro Red Blend, $11, a blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, and Touriga Franca. All of these grapes go into Port wines, but when vinified as a dry wine, it gives you plenty of structure and fruit with a bit of smokiness.

Domaine Bousquet Mendoza Malbec, $11, there is a proliferation of Argentine Malbecs out there, and for the money Bousquet delivers so well.

Bodegas Atalaya Almansa Laya Red Blend, $10, this is a blend of Monastrell (a powerful, dense, chewy high-alcohol red wine variety), and Garnacha Tintorera (one of the few red varieties whose pulp and juice is red also).

Concha Y Toro Casillero del Diablo Winemaker's Red Blend, $10, an easy-drinking staple in the large Chilean Concha y Toro winery's lineup. Fresh black fruit, licorice, and a touch of green bell pepper.

Gnarly Head 1924 Lodi Red Blend, $10, an opulent, blackberry jam and raisiny wine that is very soft on the palate.

Total for the 12 wines is $128. Take 10% off, and that's $115.20. Connecticut sales tax is 6.35%, so that gets us to a grand total of $122.52. That puts us in the lower range of what I categorized above. You are getting a nice spread of regions and grape varieties in this, too. Keep in mind that I have also listed these in order of how you might want to taste them if you were to do an absurd 12-bottle flight!

Hopefully, this gives you a great starting point in building your own case, but as always you know where to find me if you have questions. Good luck!

Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Muscadet

Wines from the vineyards near the river city of Nantes (pictured) are exactly what you need this summer.

It's fun to drink

And it's fun to say.

It comes from France.

It's Muscadet [moose-cah-day]!

You know that I am an unabashed fan of wines from the Loire Valley of France, and with the heat returning to the northeast, I love them even more. There are so many dry, zesty white wines and fresh, lively red wines to choose from. However, today we focus on a white wine from the city of Nantes in the western Loire whose low alcohol, light body, and refreshingly simple flavor is perfect for this time of year. Additionally, it was a wine that my two older sons absolutely loved to say when they overheard me discussing my wine studies; it's clearly fun to say for kids, but they have over a decade to go before it can be fun to drink.

Muscadet is one of the unique protected production areas in France in that it does not refer to a grape variety or a geographic region. Wines made with this name are made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape (often shorted to Melon), whose tendency toward neutral flavors was ideal base material for Dutch traders to turn into brandy. This, along with the deep freeze of 1709, led to an increase in plantings of Melon. The name "Muscadet" is believed to have come from the supposed "musky" character that Melon displayed. Perhaps earlier clones of the variety showed this funk, but in today's examples there is no muskiness to be found.

Muscadet wine is produced from an area of roughly 32,000 acres, a significant swath of land for producing one type of wine, but still pales in comparison to Bordeaux's nearly 300,000 acres. Within the boundaries of the Muscadet zone, there are more specific terroirs and names that may be appended to the name of Muscadet on a label if the wine follows the production rules.

Map of the Muscadet production zones. Chéreau Carré is an important producer of Muscadet wines Image credit: DeMaison Selections

Muscadet-Sèvre et Maine: this is the one we see the most often on the shelves; it is often the richest and most complex of all three sub-zones.

Muscadet-Coteaux de la Loire: the northernmost region, where vintage variations are noticed the most out of the three sub-zones. Coteaux de la Loire tends to be the highest in acidity of the three sub-zones.

Muscadet-Côtes de Grandlieu: this didn't receive its own sub-zone until 1996, so prior to this vineyards were producing basic Muscadet. Soils are lighter and sandier, leading to delicate, light-bodied wines with floral aromatics.

In addition, these three sub-zones can all add "sur Lie" if they use a specific winemaking technique. In order to impart a creamier texture and give Muscadet a fuller body, fermented wines will sit in a tank or vat with the spent yeast cells (called the lees) from fermentation. The cellar hands need to stir the lees, which release sugars and proteins into the wine, leading to a richer texture. Temperature needs to be kept under control and lees need to be stirred, otherwise spoilage can occur in the wine. Additionally, if lees aging goes for more than a twelve months, it can lead to "off" flavors, such as rotten eggs in the wine (Yum!), unless serious care is taken in the cellar.

Muscadet wines are natural matches for seafood. Sea scallops and raw oysters are both phenomenal with Muscadet, as are mussels cooked in white wine with garlic and herbs. Keep the seafood preparations simple,and you will be in business. The other good news about Muscadet is that it does not break the bank, even on the higher end of the price spectrum. I have four wines for you to try, all of which show a progression from delicate and easy-drinking to assertive and complex.

Château de La Chesnaie Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie ($12): Briny and citrusy, this is an easy way to get yourself introduced to what everyday Muscadet is all about.

Château l'Oiselinière de la Ramée Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie ($17): More defined citrus fruits, such as grapefruit and lemon zest, are complemented by a subtle floral note A softer texture than the Chesnaie, but still has some bracing acidity to keep the wine from feeling flat in your mouth.

Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie Les Gras Moutons ($23): Vines are 20-60 years old, so fruit concentration begins to increase when compared to the previous two wines. The range of citrus fruits show up in this wine, but now stones and earth start to show. The texture is richer than the two as well, and this is where you begin to see what happens when Melon is grown in more specific vineyard areas with organic farming techniques.

Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Clisson ($28): Organically farmed, "Clisson" is the first recognized "cru", or great growth of Muscadet. Pépière stretches the limits of lees aging by going to nearly two years on the spent yeast cells. Vines ages are anywhere from 50 to 110 years old, leading to very concentrated flavors. White peaches, apples, brioche bread, and a smoky/stony character make this one of the more complex Muscadet examples out there. I highly encourage you to try this wine if you can find it!

Back to Basics: Premium Blends Around The World

You may have noticed that a lot of my posts have been of the exotic variety of late. Aside from recapping vacation adventures, I have gone into great detail on cocktails, plenty of spirits, and unusual grape varieties. So today, it's time to ease up on the gas a little and get back to basics with some good straight-up wine discussion. In this edition of Flight School, I share with you some classic and interesting red and white blends of which I have really received a high level of enjoyment from.

Franciscan Estate Winery does a blending class on-site, but we were fortunate to get one of their blending kits for our classroom. Image credit: Franciscan Estate

At the store, we once ran a blending session using Franciscan Estate's "Magnificat" as our reference point, a kit that is sold by the winery. It is a lot of fun to take the five grapes from the Magnificat (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec) and create your own wine in the proportions you see fit. Tasting your own "Franken-wine" alongside the Magnificat is a great practical exercise in how the different grape varieties play off of one another.

When it comes to wine blends, remember that there is always a method to the madness. While it used to be that some producers would just throw disorganized grapes into the fermentation vats and make a wine from them, individual grape varieties are bringing something to the party. The goal is for the grapes to work in harmony to achieve a desired style. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, for example, have long been partners in Bordeaux wines; Cabernet's "structure" (acid, tannin, and aromatics) have often been a foil for Merlot's plush texture and ripe fruit flavor. However, one can also amplify a specific characteristic in a blend. In an example like this, A Merlot-Malbec blend in Argentina will feel ultra-soft on your palate with very ripe fruit flavors since the two grapes have some marked similarities.

I have three whites and three reds for you to try that have been recent favorites of mine. None of these break the bank and provide you with casual, yet interesting wines to enjoy.

The White Wine Flight

Wieninger Wiener Gemischter Satz ($20): You may remember me mentioning "Gentil" blends as a way to get introduced to the grapes of Alsace, France. Gemischter Satz is a similar concept in Austria. This particular blend is mostly Grüner Veltliner, Weissburgunder, Welschriesling, and Chardonnay, but there are smaller proportions of many local varieties like Riesling, Rotgipfler, Zierfandler, Sylvaner, Traminer, Neuberger. The producer refers to this as "All of Vienna in One Wine." This is aromatic and fresh with delicate citrus and stone fruits, along with some minerally/earthy notes. Perfect with lighter seafood dishes or as a counter to Wiener Schnitzel!

Domaine Lafage Côtes Catalanes "Côté Est" ($14): The Côtes Catalanes region of France near the Spanish border is delivering great value with these unique blends of native and international varieties. Côté Est uses Grenache Blanc (popular for its body, alcohol, and tropical fruit), Roussanne (a high-acid aromatic white grape of the Rhône Valley) and the well-known Chardonnay. The end result is a vibrant, yet creamy white wine with pineapple, apricot, and wild herbs.

Castellargo Friuli Grave "Albus" ($16): Friuli is tucked away in the far northeast of Italy, touching the Austrian and Slovenian borders. Native grape Friulano is blended in near equal proportions with Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay to create a pungent citrus, herbaceous, earthy wine with some texture on the palate and a slightly floral nose. Delicious with a pasta of fresh herbs and green veggies.

The Red Wine Flight

Viberti Langhe "Dolbà" Rosso ($16): The "Dolbà" refers to the blend of Dolcetto (40%) and Barbera (60%). Dolcetto (translates to "the little sweet one") when fully ripened gives you wines with dark berry, almost jammy fruit that has some tannin and strong aromatics. Barbera is the workhorse grape of the Piedmont area, and in this case provides plenty of acid and fresh red cherry fruit to counter the Dolcetto. A wonderful pizza wine!

Domaine de la Solitude Côtes du Rhône ($18): Solitude is a well-regarded producer of the ageworthy Châteauneuf-du-Pape. In some ways, this is the "baby version" of their flagship wine. 50% Grenache (for body and berry fruit flavor), 30% Syrah (for dark, earthy fruit, acid, and tannin), 15% Cinsault (for juicy red raspberry fruit and acid), and 5% Carignan (for additional "structure" such as acid and tannin). What you get is a well-balanced, versatile red blend that goes great with anything from a burger in summertime to a hearty stew in winter.

Graffigna Centenario Elevation San Juan Red Blend ($14): This is a blend of equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec (both well-suited for many Argentine wines), Syrah, Tannat (an old Southwestern French grape that actually thrives in neighboring Uruguay!) and Bonarda (a fruity red grape that gets lost in the shuffle at times). Tannat's structural and dark fruit content are very high, and Bonarda's fruitiness and full body help counter the aggressiveness of Tannat (which takes its name from "tannin"). The Syrah actually adds a touch of smokiness to the finished wine, too. Sear a cut of red meat, pour a glass of the Elevation, and be happy!

Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Gewürztraminer

The Battle of Turckheim, Alsace, 1675. Only the beginning of the fighting in this revered territory that produces some of the most exquisite wines in the world. Image credit: Wikipedia

Sometimes, you need an excuse to step outside of your comfort zone. Internally, you might recognize that you need to branch out and be more adventurous in your drinking. However, it can be difficult to choose a direction, particularly if you are not familiar with some of the grape varieties available to you.

So today, I unveil the "Fun To Say, Fun To Drink" feature for you. Need a run-down of a wine grape that you might have seen on a shelf, but you were hesitant to spend the money on it? I have you covered, and the debut involves the distinct and unusual grape called Gewürztraminer.

Umm...how do you say that, and what is it?

Gewürztraminer (guh-VERTZ-trah-meen-er) is an aromatic white grape variety which, despite having a German name, has its roots in Alsace, France. If you read your history books, you will remember that this eastern section of France was fought over for many centuries, changing hands from French to German rule a number of times until the end of World War II. It's cool, yet sunny climate lets Gewürztraminer and other aromatic varieties thrive. Despite being considered a white grape, Gewürztraminer has a pink/red color to its skins. Because of that, the wines end up having a coppery hue to them.

Gewürztraminer ripening in a German vineyard. This bunch is packed with wild aromas and rich flavors.

So what does Gewürztraminer smell and taste like?

Gewürztraminer is loaded with tropical and exotic fruit, perfume, flowers, and spices; these wild flavors and aromas make sense when we find out that "Gewürztraminer" translates to "spiced traminer", where "traminer" is an ancient family of aromatic varieties that made its home in northeastern Italy's Tyrol region (near the Austrian border). When I went to school at the International Wine Center and studied the Alsace region, our instructor for the session claimed Gewürztraminer to be a "banker" grape; it's aromas are so distinct that if I encountered it on an exam, I could easily identify it and "take it to the bank" that I would be right. Guess what? So can you.

Is all Gewürztraminer the same?

Not at all. Gewürztraminer has the tendency to get high in alcohol and low in acidity, so it can have a flabby, oily texture if the grapes ripen too quickly. Underripe Gewürztraminer can be very light in flavor; I would describe that sensation of drinking rosewater or green tea. There is a wide range of expressions in between those extremes, and vineyard site selection is critical in getting the most out of this grape. Aside from Alsace, you can find Gewürztraminer from northeastern Italy, Germany, Oregon, Washington State's Columbia Valley, the Finger Lakes of New York, and even South Africa. Examples can also finish fruity (with a pleasant bitter edge), dry, or sweet (in the case of "Late Harvest" examples that turn to raisins on the vine).

So what do you have for me and what am I eating with them?

I am glad you asked! By the way, due to Gewürztraminer's fussiness and difficulty to deal with in the vineyards and winery, it is not a cheap wine. That being said, I have some reasonably-priced examples that you should be able to find at your local wine shop or beverage depot.

Montinore Estate Willamette Valley Gewürztraminer ($18)

Floral, citrusy, and gingery, this zesty example from Oregon's Montinore Estate will work great with a range of Thai or Indian dishes. A great way to get yourself familiar with Gewürztraminer for under $20.

Abbazia di Novacella Alto Adige Gewürztraminer ($25)

Fermented in stainless steel tanks, this Italian example is very lively and aromatic, but lush on the palate. It's full-bodied texture makes this great with a plate of sausages or a pasta with ground sausage, cream, and basil. The honeyed mango flavors would make this work with duck, too.

Pierre Sparr Alsace Gewürztraminer ($25)

Pierre Sparr traces its history back to the year 1680. Anise, apricots, and dried peaches show in this wine, along with a touch of residual sweetness. If you are familiar with the lychee fruit, you might detect that here, too. I would go with bacon-wrapped scallop with this one.

Pierre Sparr Alsace Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Mambourg ($40)

Pierre Sparr's Mambourg vineyard is dominated by Gewürztraminer vines, which have an average age of 40 years, leading to intense, concentrated wines. This wine is rich and full-bodied with a spectrum of dried tropical fruits, honey, and spice. If you are living it up this would be a great match with foie gras. 

The Skurnik Files: How Back Labels Can Make You A Smarter Shopper

Last week, I wrote of my experience at the Grand Portfolio Tasting presented by Skurnik Wines & Spirits. That event spurred a ton of thoughts on how I can help you, my fellow beverage consumer and today I guide you in a direction that I think most shoppers take for granted.

Skurnik, along with other suppliers, distributors, and importers, sell their products to your favorite wine shops and beverage depots across the country. Depending on the retailer you give your hard-earned money to, you could be speaking to salespeople at a specialty shop to help guide you or you are left to your own devices at a big box store, based on the level of knowledge and experience of the employees. No matter the type of store you frequent, there is always one way to help yourself get an idea of what you might like.

Take a look at the back label of that bottle

The front label of a wine bottle or whiskey bottle is always the sexy, magnetic way of drawing you into the product. It is what is displayed on the shelves, and a lot of times there are some great pieces of information to help you get an idea of what is inside those bottles. There are names of grape varieties, a wine region shown, vineyard names, village names (often in French wines), whiskey age statements, and flavors of a vodka just to name a few examples.

However, on the back is where we find the names of the suppliers. A lot of times, the web sites are listed so you can see their whole portfolio. A supplier may be heavy in Old World/European wines (like Skurnik), almost exclusively Italian (Dark Star Imports), or into South American wine, lesser-known California wines and sake (Vine Connections). Click on any of those links, and you will get stories on individual producers and their products available. You can read about the company's philosophy. Maybe you share the love of organic wines that a supplier is focused on. Or perhaps you see a supplier focused on aged rums (which you might be able to add to your personal collection of aged rums). While each product may not be available in each state, you can oftentimes approach your retailer to see if they can order you anything of interest...and your order typically arrives in 1-2 days if the supplier has the products in stock.

So if, for example, it turns out you really like Skurnik's La Colombina Brunello di Montalcino, you may end up liking Skurnik's Brunello from the producer Mocali. Even if the style is different, it should still taste good. You liked the Mocali? Try their Rosso di Montalcino or the Brunello Riserva. This is how you can develop a personal flavor profile. A high-quality supplier is carefully screening what will do well in the U.S. market or individual states, and when a wine makes it into the portfolio, it will almost always be worth trying if the wine is a style that intrigues you. I like those odds.

You might also see a wine region you never saw before. Google "Salice Salentino". You will discover that Negroamaro is a grape used in this Italian region's red wines. Check out Negroamaro and you'll find descriptions that might mirror Cabernet Sauvignon. If you are a Cabernet Sauvignon fan, chances are you might like wines of Salice Salentino.

Three wines from Central Italy, all from different producers, subregions, and importers. Lots of good data to help you, including web sites for further research.

William Grant & Sons is a supplier of the best-selling single malt Scotch whisky, Glenfiddich. If you are a fan of Glenfiddich 12 Year, perhaps you want to try the 12 Year example from Balvenie distillery, which is also in the William Grant portfolio.

Provide your feedback to your retailer. The wine manager is going to meet with representatives of these suppliers, so your favorable reviews or harsh criticisms help make future decisions on what you will encounter on the shelves. A little research and dialogue go a long way in helping you figure out smart ways to branch out, all while sticking with a style that your prefer.

So flip that bottle around every now and then. You never know what kick-ass bottle you will discover next.

The Obligatory Valentine's Day Wine And Chocolate Post

Tuesday is Valentine's Day, a date on your calendar that can be met with a mix of emotions. Some people love it and go all out with the stereotypical package of flowers, candy, and dinner out at a nice restaurant. Others loathe it believing it is some made-up "Hallmark Holiday" or perhaps do not have someone to share the day with, and therefore it becomes a depressing day. Some will do their best to just make a Tuesday night extra special for a loved one.

The mix of emotions is understandable. After all St. Valentine, who the holiday is named for, is quite the complex character in history. He performed Catholic marriages against the wishes of the Roman Emperor Claudius II, so Valentine was subsequently beaten, stoned, and beheaded for his actions in the year 269. Oh, what fun! Also, over time St. Valentine became the patron saint of love, but also the patron saint of beekeeping, epilepsy, and plague. My goodness...love is in the air!

And whether you view Valentine's Day as a time for love or the plague, chocolate will always be associated with this day. If you are a wine lover (which I assume you are, because you are here reading this post), then you will inevitably see the articles about "Best Wine & Chocolate Pairings This Valentine's Day" or something of that ilk smattered about the Interwebs. So let's get this out there immediately:

Unless you like sweet wines, stop pairing wine with chocolate.

This is not some hot take. It's fact. Chocolate has a complexity unlike any other food out there. Chocolate comes in flavors that are salty, milky, caramelized, bitter, fruit-filled, but the actual chocolate itself is a combination of sweet, savory and umami. This bold array of flavor needs wine with just as much character and has to be sweeter than the chocolate. The only wines that come to mind are Vintage, Late Bottled Vintage or aged Tawny Port wines. Other sweet wines like Late Harvest Riesling and Ice Wine are too delicate. Sauternes and Tokaj can be dominated by chocolate's character, despite bringing the requisite sweetness and richness levels.

Now, I am sure there is a group of you who might be saying something like, "Hey, Jerky Mr. Know-It-All...I have chocolate-covered strawberries and cherries for dessert. What do you say to that?"

Glad you asked! I have two suggestions, each of which will cost you around $20.

Look for Banfi's Rosa Regale, an Italian lightly sparkling low-alcohol wine bursting with cranberry, strawberry, and raspberry flavors. This is a home run with chocolate-covered strawberries. 

Gerard Bertrand's Banyuls (a Port-like wine made in southern France from Grenache grapes) has a deep, dark black berry jam and cherry fruit character. This is what you want with your chocolate-covered cherries. 

Now with such a challenge posed to the range of sweet wines, why are the dry wines going to be even more difficult? The popular and romantic association has been the ubiquitous Cabernet Sauvignon and dark chocolate pairing, but here's what happens: Cabernet's flavors go hollow when chocolate is introduced. All you are left with is a mouthful of acid, tannin, and alcohol. It's not a pleasing experience, and you want satisfaction on Valentine's Day. Pinot Noir also has a misguided presence here, too. Yes, it is fruity and silky-smooth when done well, but it is delicate and low in tannin; chocolate overwhelms any affordable Pinot Noir. 

My suggestion to you this Valentine's Day is to drink those dry red wines with your kick-ass dinner, or maybe enjoy the wine as an "intermezzo" after dinner and before dessert. Your senses will thank you.