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I drank all the whisk(e)y. I have no idea if I am happy to have done so, or sad that it's all gone.

I drank all the whisk(e)y. I have no idea if I am happy to have done so, or sad that it's all gone.

Whiskey Advent Calendar Recap: Picking The Favorite Child

January 08, 2018 by Tony Ambrosini

I did it. I made it through the entire Whiskey Advent Calendar that I received as the most unbelievable birthday gift. 24 samples have come and gone, displaying a range of styles from all over the world. There was not a bad one in the bunch, each 30mL sample showing different characteristics. Some were driven by the types of grains used, others by distillation techniques, all with various aging levels. Location of the distillery and warehouse even plays into this, too. I touched on the first four that I opened in the beginning of December before holiday life took over, but now after taking diligent notes and processing everything I can share my thoughts on what I tasted. When I told people about the Advent Calendar, I was often asked, "What has been your favorite?"

Here's how I'll answer that question. Each whiskey brings its own expression to the table: lively or rich, sweet or dry, complex or simple, subtle or forceful. The beauty of all the styles of whiskey out there is that there is a time and a place for all of them and they can all be appreciated when placed in proper context. Some might be better suited for a cocktail rather than enjoying neat with a few drops of water. Others may be comforting and soothing in the winter, while some examples might be lighter and more refreshing in the hot months of summer.

What's my favorite whiskey? It is like trying to pick your favorite child. The Greatest Wife In The World and I have the running joke that our favorite child is the one who sleeps the most at night. My favorite whiskey is the one that is making me happy today. It's all about mood and environment.

So let me share which drams stood out the most. There are several products in the calendar that we have either limited or zero access to in the U.S., and they deserve to be discussed based on their individual merits. However, the whiskies in my top six are all either available in the majority of states or have nationwide distribution. Let's run them down below. Special thanks to the Greatest Wife In The World for going to Master of Malt for an amazing gift.

Honorable Mentions (hard or unable to source in the U.S., but fun to share with you in case you encounter any of these in your travels):

Mackmyra Brukswhisky (approx. $49 via Master of Malt): I wrote of this when I first opened the kit. Even after tasting through the 24 whiskies, the Mackmyra still stands out to me. The combination of delicate floral notes on the nose with red berries and ginger on the palate left a positive mark. We need this here in the states.

Millstone 6 Year Old Dutch Whisky (approx. $62 via Master of Malt): This example from the Zuidam Distillery was a limited release (only 637 bottles were made) and never made it to the U.S. This whisky is malty with banana bread and maple syrup on the palate. On the nose, it's candied walnuts, toffee, and creme brulee. Warm and balanced on the finish. FYI...the Millstone 100 Proof Rye is available in the U.S. if you are looking to try something from this producer.

penderyn-portwood-whisky.jpg

Puni Nova (approx. $62 via Master of Malt): Puni Distillery is located in the far north of Italy, and the young Nova expression has a mash bill of malted barley, malted rye, and malted wheat. Light in color and body, anise, lemons, and cured meats are subtle on the nose. The palate is lively with green herbs and citrus, along a touch of espresso and dark chocolate. Great potential as a summer whiskey or as a base in a cocktail. Puni has some products distributed in California, but it is not widespread yet.

English Whiskey Company Chapter 13 (approx. $90 via Master of Malt): Malt and leather are countered by orange zest and the smell of an old library (just imagine it...you have encountered it before). Dried oranges, malt, and fresh citrus on the palate, which starts off malty and sweet, but finishes lively, spicy, and dry. Origin is St. George's Distillery in Norfolk, England. This was very cool.

Penderyn Welsh Whisky Portwood Finish (approx. $64 via Master of Malt): The Port barrel is noticeable on this killer Welsh whisky from Penderyn. Peach pie, raspberry jam, caramel, and vanilla on the nose. Sweet red and black berries on a rich and full-bodied palate. If you are a fan of Port-finished whisky, then I hope this makes it to the states.

Now for the top six (in no order, all can be had here in the U.S.):

Kavalan ex-Bourbon Oak Single Malt ($115): This Taiwanese producer is gaining a lot of traction in the U.S., with distribution in many states and only gaining a larger footprint. A fragrant whisky with chile peppers, citrus, and an exotic range of savory spices on the nose. On the palate, the spices are there, but finishes like a Bourbon with a vanilla and long toffee-like sweetness. 

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Teeling Small Batch Irish Whiskey ($40): Many Irish whiskeys feature unmalted barley, leading to a light and clean profile. Teeling uses a high proportion of malted barley (a la Scotch), and the whiskey spends some time maturing in rum casks. This has a soft and sweet nose, with almond, toasted coconut, apples, and vanilla. On the palate, marshmallows, coconut, pie crust, and chocolate with a full and sweet finish.

The Quiet Man 8 Year Old Single Malt Irish Whiskey ($50): The brand's name comes from the distillery owner's father, who was a bartender in Northern Ireland. For being made from all malted barley, the nose is very clean and fragrant, with floral, citrus, and vanilla cream aromas. On the palate, it is light and gentle with a distinct lemon curd flavor and fresh coconut on the finish. This is incredibly easy to enjoy.

Hudson Manhattan Rye Whiskey ($35): Tuthilltown Spirits in New York's Hudson Valley gives rye whiskey the attention it deserves. Loaded with spicy aromatic intensity, it is like walking into a New York bakery and smelling rye bread. On the palate, it's roasted root vegetables, rosemary, orange peel, nutmeg, and ground black pepper on the finish. At 92 Proof, this is loaded with flavor to make an amazing cocktail. Where's my pastrami sandwich with this?

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Whistlepig 10 Year Vermont Rye ($75): Whistlepig continues to gain accolades with newer expressions rye-based whiskies, and deservedly so. This 10 year example takes a stock of Canadian rye that was destined for blending and instead, Whistlepig aged it, finished it in Bourbon barrel, and bottled it at their Vermont property. This is French toast, dates, and fruitcake on the nose, with candied oranges, scones, maple syrup, and baking spices on the palate. Well worth the spend!

Brenne Cuvée Spéciale French Single Malt ($64): When Cognac and Scotch have a baby, you get Cuvée Spéciale from Brenne. The barley is grown in the Cognac region of France, the whisky matures in French oak, then finishes in Cognac casks. The result is a nose of fruitcake, orange peel, and floral notes. The palate has baked pears, green figs, golden raisins, and a warming vanilla finish. Since I happen to be a Cognac fan, this whisky was right in my wheelhouse.

January 08, 2018 /Tony Ambrosini
Whisky, Whiskey, Rye, Bourbon, Irish, Spirits, Italy, England, Netherlands, France
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The Original Broadway Cast of Hamilton performs "The Story of Tonight"

The Original Broadway Cast of Hamilton performs "The Story of Tonight"

Raise A Glass To Freedom: What To Drink On Independence Day

July 03, 2017 by Tony Ambrosini

As you know, I spend a lot of time on this blog promoting the virtues of adult beverages from all over the world. You have seen all kinds of unique grape varieties show up in wines I want you to check out from South Africa, New Zealand, Australia, South America, and all throughout Europe. There is an enormous range of spirits out there; you can find plenty of whisk(e)y and vodka from just about any country, and you know how highly I have spoken of Tequila and Gin, too. I am even trying to be good about giving beer some love here on top of all of that.

But as we approach The United States of America's 241st birthday, it's time to celebrate in style with some fine native drinks. America was founded on being bold and daring; I do that here by getting you to consider drinking something you may never have thought to seek out on your own. Yet for this celebration, I want you to stay close to home. Drink something from America with bold flavors! Chances are, those intense flavors are going to play nicely with your barbecues this long weekend. For instance...

Wine fans: drink up our classic regions like Napa Valley, which put the United States on the map for serious wine production. Live on the East Coast? Now is a good time to try something from New York or Virginia. Additionally, try one of your local wines; maybe it isn't even made from grapes. For instance, when I worked in New Jersey, blueberry and cranberry wines were very popular for casual wine lovers.

Whiskey fans: nothing is more American than Bourbon. It can't be made in any other country and call itself "Bourbon." You could even take things a step further with Rye whiskey, which was very popular way back in the Colonial days in Maryland and Pennsylvania. Not a whiskey fan, but you like spirits? There is nothing wrong with spiking your beverage with some local craft gin, rum, or vodka

Beer fans: you have more choice than ever before when it comes to craft beer. Again, seek out a local brewery, or if you want to play to the American Revolution, Sam Adams has always delivered for me when I get paralyzed by choices.

I am going to give you an option in each category and share a cocktail that we love making at this time of year. Have a friend in North Carolina or Washington state? Raise a glass to them. Have an enemy in Texas or Illinois? Raise a glass to those folks, too. Chances are that while they are driving you crazy, they are helping you stay on your toes. With that, have a safe 4th of July holiday and enjoy these beverages responsibly.

7 Moons California Red Blend ($12): I poured this at our store's 15th Anniversary Tasting and it went over incredibly well thanks to its jammy red and black fruit along touch of vanilla and spice. This is made up of seven grape varieties: Zinfandel, Merlot, Grenache, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec. It's a tasty "wine stew" that will go very well with a simple beef burger.

Russell's Reserve 10 Year Old Bourbon ($40) and 6 Year Rye ($40): Go big, or go home. Part of the Wild Turkey range, Russell's Reserve has bold flavor, spiciness and richness. The Bourbon is like caramel-coated cherries and vanilla. I enjoy the citrusy aromatic intensity of the 6 Year Rye on its own, but mixed with equal parts Regatta Ginger Beer, it is a simple cocktail to help you beat the heat.

Two Roads No Limits Hefeweizen ($8/4-pack of 16 oz cans): Some love for a Connecticut brewery! The Hefeweizen is great for the summer with just 5% abv, tropical fruit flavor and a refreshing citrus kick on the finish.

Here is the cocktail we love at this time of year: Rosé, Bourbon, and Blue, which comes from Bon Appetit's The Grilling Book, an unbelievable book I received one Father's Day that has killer food recipes and some interesting cocktails (non-alcoholic versions, too!). Even if you aren't a Bourbon fan, I will bet you anything that you will enjoy this.

Ingredients (Makes 8 cocktails):

7 Tbsp raw sugar

2 cups fresh blueberries, divided

The finished product.

The finished product.

2 cups freshly brewed unsweetened black tea (orange pekoe is highly recommended)

1.5 cups of fruity rosé wine (We used 90+ Cellars Languedoc rosé for $9.99, but a rosé from the Navarra region of Spain works nicely here, too. Sorry...we included something non-American.)

1 cup Bourbon (Our choice was Knob Creek 100 Proof. It's loaded with flavor and stands up to all the ingredients you will be adding)

3/4 cup fresh lemon juice

8 lemon slices

Stir sugar with 7 Tbsp hot water in a small bowl until sugar is dissolved; transfer to a food processor. Add 1.5 cups blueberries and purée until smooth. Set a fine mesh strainer over a large pitcher. Strain blueberry mixture, pressing on solids to extract as much liquid as possible; discard solids. Add tea, rosé, Bourbon, and lemon juice. Chill for at least 2 hours.

Cut remaining blueberries in half; add to pitcher. Fill Old-Fashioned glasses (or any sturdy glasses) with ice. Divide cocktail among glasses and garnish with lemon slices.

 

July 03, 2017 /Tony Ambrosini
California, Bourbon, Rye, Beer, Zinfandel, Grenache, Merlot, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Rosé
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The rugged landscape of Scotland is balanced by the heather growing in the foreground. Image credit: Walk Highlands

The rugged landscape of Scotland is balanced by the heather growing in the foreground. Image credit: Walk Highlands

Whisk(e)y: A Seasonal Transition Of Flavors

April 14, 2017 by Tony Ambrosini

For the whisk(e)y drinker, we have hit a point on the calendar where you may be looking for a change. Spring is great for that; after all, the season represents rebirth and youthful exuberance. You have to see how our small shore town in southeastern Connecticut has suddenly come alive with people out walking or running much more. The raw gray days are slowly being replaced by sunny skies and gentle warmth.

Of course in other parts of the country, you guys are rocketing toward summer and might already be in a different mindset. With today's goal being to show you a way to transition from deeper, heavier winter whiskies to livelier but still flavorful versions, I may encounter a bit of a challenge in presenting something unifying. As it is, Easter Sunday will be an 80-degree outlier that is followed up by a need for a sweater in the coming days.

Additionally as we have learned here before, whisk(e)y has a wide spectrum of styles to choose from, so again seeking common ground isn't easy. However, there are a few of good rules to follow if you have an open mind and tend to be a seasonal drinker:

1. Go for younger whiskies

With Single Malt Scotch or Irish, 12 years or less is preferred, but some examples could be stretched to 15 years. Younger whiskies tend to have those fresher more vibrant flavors, like grass, flowers, heather, and fresh fruit. Peated whiskies are very pronounced, fiery, and intense on the nose. With demand continuing to skyrocket for premium aged whiskies, look for some No Age Statement single malts (many will be a combo of ages from three to ten years) or some blended whiskies (which will have lighter cereal grains or unmalted barley). 

To me, this is one reason why Bourbon is popular; Bourbon tastes really good in its youth thanks to new American oak barrels that impart a ton of flavor very quickly. The base grain of corn leads to soft whiskey with a sweet finish that makes it easy to enjoy young. The combination of these two aspects makes Bourbon taste like Bourbon!

2. Keep an eye out for rye

For American or New World whiskies, seek out Bourbon whiskey with rye heavily involved in the blend (anything upwards of 20% as a little goes a long way) or try a straight rye (where rye makes up at least 51% of the blend), such as Bulleit Rye (a steal at $28). If you have tasted rye bread before, you notice how pungent and distinct it is, but also how flavorful it is without being too dense. That's how rye whiskey presents itself, too.

Good quality Canadian whisky often has a significant proportion of rye, so if you encounter an artisanal product coming from north of the border, give it a shot!

3. Head to Asia

Japan produces whisky along the same rules as a peated Scotch whisky, but rather than a spirit that is rich and malty, flavors are clean and transparent with lots of fresh orchard fruit (apple, peach, and plum come to mind) and a floral character on the nose. Some producers use Japanese oak that increases the floral/perfume character and imparts a little peppery spice. Japan experiments with many grains in blended whiskies, leading to leaner and lighter-bodied spirits. These are all techniques that will provide you with a lively finished product.

Another place to look? Taiwan!

So whether you are a seasonal drinker, or are just looking to change up your stash in the home bar, I have a few ways you can go.

If you want Scotch...

Glenkinchie 12 Year Old ($55-ish): One of the few Lowland distilleries in operation, Glenkinchie's flagship product gives you light citrus, fresh flowers, and a touch of vanilla cream. With a drying, herbal finish this is great with light salty snacks. 

Other good choices include Monkey Shoulder Blended Scotch ($30), and Glenmorangie Original ($35, a staple which I give to people who claim they don't like Scotch)

If you want Bourbon...

Buffalo Trace Bourbon Whiskey ($28): during a time where Bourbon's popularity is at an all-time high, it's good to see Buffalo Trace hasn't gotten too out-of-control on price. There is noticeable rye on the finish in this otherwise balanced example, but the rye is what we are looking for in the warmer weather. With flavors of vanilla, brown sugar, and fresh oranges, this is a crowd-pleaser.

Other good options include Woodford Reserve ($40, my go-to for the Kentucky Derby) and Basil Hayden's ($45) for their higher rye proportions; Basil Hayden's might be close to one-third rye.

If you want something off the beaten path...

Hibiki Harmony ($66): For the whisky nerds out there, the Harmony has a broad spectrum of gentle flavors and aromas. Delicate and light-bodied, this has tropical and exotic fruit flavors, backed by wild herbs, roses, and a pleasant woodiness. There is an incense-like note on the end that is a signature of the use of Japanese oak. If you can find it, try it! 

 

April 14, 2017 /Tony Ambrosini
Scotch, Irish, Bourbon, Rye, Japan
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