Surviving Doomsday

It’s a difficult time right now. The discomfort that stems from the pandemic gripping our lives is to a point where some are out raiding all stock of toilet paper and hand sanitizer in preparation for Doomsday. But there is something critical that you need to have on-hand during such a crisis. You need wine and plenty of it!

Yes, I realized that the wine fridge was approaching DEFCON-3 status, so it was time to load up. I picked up a nice spread of wines, white and red, Old World and New World, cheap ones and splurges. Besides, if the lady who dropped by the store could come in and clean out our stock of White Burgundy since “she doesn’t plan on going out anytime soon,” then these wines are plenty good for us.

Of course if all else fails, we’ll find some cask-strength 120 Proof whiskey to wash both our insides and outsides with. Stay safe out there, everyone.

Here’s the list:

All wines pictured are listed below, from left to right.

Estate Tiblalexis Kokarella White Blend ($13): Get exploring when the world is crumbling around you. Here is a zippy unoaked Greek white blend of the lemony, minerally Assyrtiko and the aromatic Malagouzia.

Essay White Blend ($11): Amazing blend of Chenin Blanc, Viognier, and Roussanne from South Africa; I tried some before buying, and the combination of fruity flavors and long finish make this a wine with incredible value.

La Craie Vouvray ($14): It has been a while since I tried a Vouvray…no time like the present! Chenin Blanc has rapidly become my favorite springtime grape.

Broadley Pinot Noir Willamette Valley ($23): The Greatest Wife In The World and I both really enjoy Pinot Noir from Oregon.

Frescobaldi Remole ($10): If we go through our inventory of wines in the picture quickly, I’ll just keep buying cases of this easy-drinking Sangiovese-based blend while giving some love to the folks in Italy.

Rocca delle Macie Chianti Classico ($16): If we somehow end up sequestered from the rest of society, chances are we are making a lot of pizza and pasta knowing that the kids will eat it. A Chianti Classico will pair nicely with each one of those meals.

Domaine les Semelles de Vent Vacqueyras ($24): I love the Rhone Valley’s expressions of Grenache and Syrah, and when I saw this was a new arrival I did not hesitate to blindly grab it. If you don’t see this specific producer, a Vacqueyras in this price range is where it’s at.

Piazzo Barolo ($39): Live like royalty and drink some Barolo, the Wine of Kings and the King of Wines (and for Medieval authenticity, complete with infectious disease running rampant around your castle!). Piazzo makes an outstanding range of wines, all of which can be found at outstanding value. Treat yourself…you deserve it.

Vintage 2006: My Professional And Personal Love

Thirteen years ago yesterday, The Greatest Wife In The World and I were married. Appropriately, the heavy rains came down all afternoon, just like it did on our wedding day, reminding me of the image of my bride-to-be sprinting after her veil that the wind took off of her head. It was such an authentic reaction in the moment of crisis. To mark each passing year of glorious wedlock, I do my best to search for wines that drink well from 2006 so we can celebrate. This year’s choice came from the ancient property of Tenuta di Capezzana: Carmignano Trefiano.

This property in the Carmignano region, just 10 miles from Florence, has been making wine since 804 A.D. Capezzana was the first to introduce Cabernet Sauvignon into the vineyards of Tuscany. The grape thrived here thanks to the land being situated at lower altitudes than nearby Chianti areas; this leads to more warmth, allowing Cabernet Sauvignon to fully ripen. The resulting success made the wines of Capezzana (and more broadly, Carmignano) popular throughout the Renaissance Era all throughout Western Europe.

By 1975, Carmignano became a legally recognized region of wine production. Other Tuscan properties were beginning to experiment with Cabernet Sauvignon in blends with Sangiovese, leading to the concept of “Super Tuscans.” However, producers were forced to label those wines with the broader appellation of “Toscana” since Carmignano was the only demarcated region at the time allowed to have Cabernet Sauvignon. Carmignano had the jump on everyone else on this style, though by 1996 other regions like Bolgheri and even Chianti allowed Cabernet Sauvignon to be part of blends.

2006 was, and still is, an outstanding year for Tuscan wines. If you are a fan of older wines, take advantage of what Tuscany has to offer across the board: Brunello di Montalcino (Banfi), Carmignano (Capezzana), Chianti Classico Riserva (Rocca delle Macie), Vino Nobile di Montepulciano (Fattoria del Cerro), Bolgheri…these are all drinking well right now. While I realize that I spend a lot of time shining the light on lesser known regions that deserve your attention, returning to the classics is important, too. Tuscany’s cherry fruit flavors, earthiness, and herbaceousness are so friendly with tomato-based dishes (where Sangiovese dominates), and the aged examples become more leathery and savory and are satisfying on their own or with a hunk of Parmesan. As The Greatest Wife In The World would say, these wines “taste Italian”…the wines express authenticity.

I have no tasting notes to provide you on Capezzana’s Trefiano yet; once we find a day where we are not traveling for work, doing wine dinners, or attending/leading classes, we’ll offer some data for you to chew on. In the meantime, you can’t go wrong with a bottle of Tuscan red wine with a 2006 vintage. Just note that securing a bottle could be difficult as available stock is irregular from market to market, but the producers I named parentheses above are usually the most readily available without (too many) exorbitant ($100+) price tags; those wines keep you in the $30-$90 range.

If you aren’t looking to drop that kind of cash on a wine, well then you have another way to approach Tuscany, and Carmignano in particular. If you want to explore Carmignano for a fraction of the cost, go for Capezzana’s Barco Reale di Carmignano, a red wine made from younger Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc vines along with little aging. The current release is from the 2014 vintage and is ready to drink now for about $16. The result is a fresh, vibrant wine wirth dark fruit flavors, gentle tannins, and refreshing acidity.

Chianti: The Last Straw

I can't help myself with the movie references this month for some reason, but hey...at least I am picking some good ones. In any case, I know I spend a lot of time trying to shine the spotlight on lesser-known wine regions that you should know about. However, it is also important to not forget about the classics. Even among these popular winemaking regions, there is one that seems to have faded into the background among the Bordeaux and Burgundy, Brunello and Barolo, (and apparently any other legendary "B" wine). Today, I am talking about Chianti.

Thin, slightly fruity, very astringent. 

Even if you searched my previous posts, you will notice I have never really gone into detail on this Italian wine staple. I do think there is still an unnecessary stigma associated with this wine, mainly because of the bulbous bottle inside of a straw basket. This was the norm back in the 1970s and 1980s, but even with high-quality Chianti being imported today why doesn't Chianti carry the same clout with the American consumer?

100 MIL-LI-ON Liters!

Whether you are already a fan of Chianti or need your preconceived notions changed, here we go. The Chianti region is responsible for north of 110 million liters of wine being produced; that's roughly 44 Olympic-sized swimming pools of Chianti available to you. There was a time when there was indeed just too much damn wine being made that had "Chianti" on the label. This annoyed the producers in the traditional heartland of the Chianti region of Tuscany, who were situated in the vineyards stretching from Florence to Siena. They felt the outlying regions that were making lighter Chianti were harming the reputation of the classic region. So by 1984, "Chianti Classico" was born to note this longstanding, chewier, denser red wine that can evolve in the bottle. Other subzones of Chianti that produced wines of distinction above and beyond basic Chianti were eventually awarded their own recognized regions; these include "Colli Fiorentini," "Colli Senesi," and "Rufina." They are sometimes referred to as Chianti satellite regions. All of these wines are based on a high percentage of Sangiovese, THE grape of Tuscany with its high acid, sour cherry flavor, and (with proper aging) leathery texture. Percentages of local grapes like Colorino, Canaiolo, Malvasia, and Trebbiano can be added, but so can the well-known grapes Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. There is a large palette for the grapegrowers and winemakers to choose from.

Credit goes to Vinepair for the Chianti map above.

Additionally, if you see a "Chianti Classico Riserva" wine on the shelf, it has been aged a minimum of 24 months. Some producers such as Rocca delle Macie, make a Chianti Classico Riserva ($29) that can rival some of the wines of Brunello di Montalcino. A new category debuted in 2014 called Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, which are wines made from grapes from vines only owned by the winery who is producing them; it is common practice to source grapes from other vineyards to make a percentage of blends. This stricter regulation showcases a more defined location...more terroir.

Chiantis are great with everything from pizza, to red-sauced pastas, to hearty beef dishes (example, Braciole). The Classicos and Riservas are also lovely on their own when you get a slight chill in the air (which is getting here soon); these are very satisfying wines.

How about a couple of recommendations? OK...here you are. These will help take you Chianti drinking to the next level, and hopefully change your opinion of the wine for the better.

Cecchi Chianti Classico ($15): This is a great starting point; we recommend this one a lot at Divine Wine, as it gives you the classic sour cherry and leathery notes that you want from a quality Chianti, along with a touch of herbaceousness.

Palagetto Chianti Colli Senesi ($15): One of the satellite wines of Chianti, Palagetto makes a fantastic range of products that you should seek out, whether this Chianti or not. The Chianti Colli Senesi is about 85-90% Sangiovese with a bit of Merlot and local grapes blended in. Deep ruby in color, this has a raspberry and earthy tones.

Barone Ricasoli Chianti Classico Gran Selezione Coledila ($45): If you want to treat yourself, go with a wine from the family that is credited with creating the original "recipe" for Sangiovese-based Chianti. This is a higher-octane wine made from 100% Sangiovese aged at least 18 months in new oak barrels, imparting a lot of vanilla, chocolate, and baking spice flavors to the primary dark cherry fruit flavors. While awesome to try now, it will pay you back with a few years in the cellar to harmonize and soften the tannins. 

Ask Tony: To Chill Or Not To Chill?

It's time for another installment of Ask Tony: You have questions, I (maybe) have answers.

We are finally about to hit some real summer weather again. I find that when temperatures go up, the preferences for an alcoholic beverage are all over the map. Some just want an ice cold beer. Others like a cocktail (Gin and Tonic or a Margarita, anyone?). Perhaps a little vodka or Bourbon on the rocks on a muggy summer evening. There is really no argument here with any of those choices.

Then there is wine. White wine can provide a foil for the heat with a vibrant, refreshing quality. However, if you are outside grilling, higher alcohol, bolder red wines will make better partners with your food, even if it is not ideal for some in the warm weather. When I talk to fellow wine lovers, I am frequently asked how to treat them as far as temperature goes:

Should I chill this?

How long should I put this in the fridge?

Is it wrong to put an ice cube in this?

We don't ever chill red wine, do we?

Allow me to share a relevant story with you. Years ago, I went to one of my first WSET wine classes to be introduced to all of the basics of wine, including storage and service. I received two white wines and was instructed to smell, taste, and write down notes about flavors and aromas. One tasted of pears and apples and felt more acidic. The other sort of peachy and softer. When it was all said and done, it turns out both wines were the same exact wine (an Italian Pinot Grigio)...one served three degrees cooler than the other.

That was my first introduction to the importance of serving temperature; this is an aspect of wine drinking that should not be overlooked. Because of that experience, I completely understood why I was asked so many questions later on in my wine and spirits career.

There is such an enormous range of styles out there. Wines can be light or full-bodied. There are reds, whites, and rosés. Some are sparkling, others are fortified. Wines might be very high in acid, fruit, or tannin, and what about sweet wines? With seemingly infinite types of wine to choose from, you will discover that serving certain wines in a temperature range will maximize your sensory experience. Let's lay out some simple guidelines (with some of my favorite wines' labels sprinkled throughout:

White is cooler than red

Not more fashionable. Cooler in temperature. White wines in general are lighter in body than reds. There are also more high-acid white wines than reds. Reds have tannins that are not in white wines. If an acidic white wine is served too warm, it tastes flabby and boring. If a high-tannin red wine is served too cold, the mouth-puckering tannins are amplified, making the wine too astringent and tough. Generally speaking when in doubt, chill the white, keep the red out on the counter.

Aromatic wines of any color like the cold

Now, this is something that requires some exploration and familiarity (which I can help you with). Some grape varieties jump out of the glass at your nose, others are more restrained. For white wines, the Alsatian white varieties like Riesling, Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, and Gewürztraminer all benefit from temperatures (43-46F). Sauvignon Blanc, white Burgundy/Old World Chardonnays, and Viognier also benefit in this temperature range, too.

Red wines like Gamay (Beaujolais) and Cabernet Franc (from New York or Loire Valley of France) are very fragrant and fruity and pay you back when served around 50-54F. These are also light in tannin, so no worries about astringency wrecking your palate. This temperature range also works well for many New World Chardonnays. Just stick a room temperature wine of these varieties in the fridge for 20-30 minutes and you will get close. 

Treat rosés like white wines

If you are serving rosés, treat them as a white wine. Rosés are just red grapes that were treated in the way white wines are produced. Cold temperatures bring out the strawberry/watermelon aromas commonly found in these wines.

Low-to-medium tannin wines should feel cool to the touch

Pinot Noir can show itself light and juicy (in the vain of Gamay above), or full-bodied and chewy. Get to know what type of Pinot Noir you are working with. Fancy Premier or Grand Cru Burgundy shouldn't be served too cool, but casual California, Oregon, New Zealand or Chilean Pinot Noir should get 15-20 minutes in the fridge. Basic Chianti, inexpensive Bordeaux, and Côtes du Rhône wines are other examples of wines that should feel cool to the touch when you grab the bottle.

"Room temperature" for high-tannin reds

By room temperature, we are talking 64F-68F and that's on the very cool side of what most people find bearable in their homes. However, this is the temperature that wines like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Zinfandel, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, and Nebbiolo-based wines show their best. The tannins feel soft and mature at this temperature and makes for a better tasting experience than throwing these in the cooler. If you have a wine fridge or cellar that you keep around 58F, just take out the wine and set it on the counter for 30 minutes and you should be good to go. If it is a particularly hot day and you are drinking outside, there is nothing wrong with throwing one of these wines into an ice bucket.

Chill sweet white wines

Sweet white wines suffer from the same issue as the high acid white wines when served too warm, but throw in the residual sugar that gives the impression of a sticky, cloying sensation that makes these wines not as enjoyable as they should be. Sweet Rieslings (Finger Lakes, Germany, Austria, etc), and Chenin Blanc (Loire) will taste so much better when served cold. The acids come to life and balance the fruitiness and sweetness.

Others

Champagne and other sparkling wines should be well-chilled. Fruity sparklers like Prosecco and Cava in particular benefit the most from being in 40F temperature, while most non-vintage Champagne should be a few degrees warmer.

Fino and Manzanilla Sherry, Tawny Ports all should be chilled as well.

Sweet red wines like Ruby and Vintage Ports will have some tannins, so keep these at room temperature.

One other tip: to quickly chill wine, make sure your bucket has both water and ice in it. The laws of heat transfer will get your wine chilled in about 15 minutes. It will take two or three times longer in just a bucket of ice.

Here's what you can do for your flight. Pick up a Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc and a Tuscan or California red blend. Taste each one at room temperature. Then stick the bottles in your fridge for 30-60 minutes and see how the wines change if you think temperature doesn't matter.

Just do me one favor: if you are going to drop an ice cube into your wine, give me a heads-up so I can look the other way. I won't tell anyone if you do.