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As always, I get excited when I have the chance to talk about whisky.

As always, I get excited when I have the chance to talk about whisky.

What We Are Drinking In February

February 07, 2018 by Tony Ambrosini

Another round of brutal wintertime sickness put me behind the 8-ball once again when it comes to sharing some fun drinking info. However, a lot has developed behind the scenes where I am going to be busy in the month of February. This is thrilling for me as it will help me push through the rest of this awful winter with some tremendous events and classes.

If you are in Southeastern Connecticut, you won't want to miss these.

Frederick Wildman 2016 Burgundy Tasting (Trade only), February 8th

Frederick Wildman & Sons is an importer/distributor of fine wines, who will be hosting an event in Boston showcasing wines of Burgundy's 2016 vintage. Winemakers will be on-hand, so this will be a fun one. You will certainly get a report of the experience from me sometime next week.

Japanese Whisky Class at Divine Wine, February 15th

I will be launching a Japanese whisky session in the store's classroom from 7:00-9:00pm, featuring a range of whiskies acquired by Skurnik Wines & Spirits in 2017. More Japanese whisky products seem to be hitting shelves weekly as it is the fastest-growing whisky category at the moment. This course will expand on basic topics covered in my Whisk(e)y 101 sessions and take a deeper dive into what's happening in Japan. Just $20 per student. You can register by calling (860) 691-1053.

Wine 101 at Divine Wine, Begins February 21st

The Boss himself, Ken Turcotte, will be running his awesome wine foundation course over three consecutive Wednesday nights beginning February 21st, 7:00-9:00pm. Ken has delivered this course to over 1,000 students during the store's 15 years of existence. Taste wines and discuss all aspects of wine from field to bottle in a casual setting. Tuition is $100 for the three-week package, which includes study materials and wines. Call (860) 691-1053 to register and make payment.

Trimbach visits Divine Wine, February 22nd

We are in for a real treat later this month as Jean Trimbach of legendary Alsace wine producer Maison Trimbach, presents a range of wines in the Divine Wine classroom from 7:00-8:30pm. Trimbach has been making exquisite wines since 1626. This is one I am not going to miss. Absolutely FREE to attend, but you can buy wines at the end of the program if you like. Call (860) 691-1053 to RSVP.

February 07, 2018 /Tony Ambrosini
Japan, Whisky, Wine, Alsace, France, Burgundy
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A beautiful cocktail for all seasons, what is it about the Negroni that I suddenly fell in love with? Image credit: Liquor.com

A beautiful cocktail for all seasons, what is it about the Negroni that I suddenly fell in love with? Image credit: Liquor.com

Classic Cocktails: The Negroni

January 23, 2018 by Tony Ambrosini in Classic Cocktails

Thank you all for bearing with me while I took the week off as I escaped the hell that is a New England winter to islands under the Eastern Caribbean sunshine. It was great to enjoy a break with my family, but it also turned out to be a time of reflection and self-evaluation. Part of looking inward meant new experiences as far as places I have never been to before, but also what my tastes and preferences are when it comes to my own consumption of tasty adult beverages.

You see, The Greatest Family In The World and I ventured to the islands via Disney Cruise Line (which I will sing the praises of at a later date...just know that the food, drink, service, and attention to detail is impeccable and I highly recommend doing it sometime). Among walking the main squares by the ports, enjoying the sandy beaches, and pictures with Goofy, there was plenty of time to get to the grown-up portions of the ship, notably Deck 4, which had all of the killer wines, spirits, and cocktails you could ever want. One of items that I saw on board in the lounges embodied a dichotomy of familiar and foreign that I have been feeling since I was legally able to drink. Today, I speak of Campari.

It just looks like serious stuff, doesn't it?

It just looks like serious stuff, doesn't it?

Campari has a stunning package. Launched back in 1861, it stands out on a bar shelf with its intense bright red liquid and a bold, yet traditional-looking label. I have seen Campari so many times, I feel like I should already know what it is about. But you want to know something? I have never consumed it until last week's getaway.

This Italian bitter liqueur made up of fruits, herbs, and other plant life is so versatile; it can be used as an aperitif or as a digestive drink. Campari became popular in the United States during the ridiculous Prohibition Era as it was not classified as alcohol, but as a medicine. Campari and soda became an instant hit, and when sweet vermouth was added to the equation, the Italians called it the Americano. However in 1919 when Count Camillo Negroni asked for a higher octane version of the Americano, he chose gin to replace the club soda and the basis for today's Negroni was born. The Americano was originally garnished with a lemon, but an orange was chosen as the Negroni's garnish simply to signal a differentiation from the Americano.

Hey, man...thanks for inventing an awesome drink!

Hey, man...thanks for inventing an awesome drink!

At the Disney Cruise Line's Skyline Lounge, they served a cocktail called "Il Valentino," which contained Hendrick's gin, Campari, and Antica Formula 1786 Vermouth shaken with ice and strained. This was pretty much a Negroni served without ice in a cocktail glass rather than on the rocks in an Old Fashioned glass. When I tasted Il Valentino, I knew I was ready to embrace the Negroni (which I did when we stopped at The Wave at the Contemprary Resort in Disneyworld before coming home). It was tremendous. With Hendrick's being softer in texture and lighter on juniper than, say, Tanqueray, it does a great job countering the complex, bittersweet flavor of Campari. Antica Formula 1786 has very clean fruity flavors with bitter orange and coffee notes and adds extra depth. Additionally, I can't say enough about possessing quality base ingredients in a cocktail...it makes all the difference in the world between a decent cocktail and an extraordinary one.

Variants of the Negroni substitute the gin for whiskey or Tequila. Some examples might use dry vermouth instead of sweet. However the common link in any version of a Negroni, whether the classic or a variant, is always Campari's neon red color and distinct flavor and aroma.

Here is your recipe to make a classic Negroni at home. There are so many flavors going on, it's hard to describe. You just have to try it for yourself, especially if you are a fan of bitter flavors. It's a new favorite of mine that I can drink at any time of year, before or after a huge meal.

1.5 oz Antica Formula 1786 (or other preferred sweet red vermouth)

1.5 oz Campari

1.5 oz Gin (your choice)

Add all ingredients to an Old Fashioned or Highball glass filled with large ice cubes. Stir and garnish with an orange slice. Drink, fall in love, and eat everything in the fridge.

January 23, 2018 /Tony Ambrosini
Italy, Campari, Bitters, Gin, Vermouth
Classic Cocktails
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If you are looking for points to guide you in selecting wine and spirits, you won't find that on this site. Image credit: Comedy Cake

If you are looking for points to guide you in selecting wine and spirits, you won't find that on this site. Image credit: Comedy Cake

Settling A Score: Why I Don't Give Points For Wine And Spirits

January 10, 2018 by Tony Ambrosini

There is a topic in the alcohol business that generates a lot of discussion and has done so for the last several years. It gets hotly contested and fiercely debated among industry suppliers, marketers, writers, bloggers, and beverage enthusiasts everywhere. Yes, I speak of ratings scales and point systems for wines and spirits.

Remember: one drinker's "Incredible" is another's "Average".

Remember: one drinker's "Incredible" is another's "Average".

Let me start with this: I know we live in a time where quick-hitting, easily digestible information is crucial as we are always busy and value our time. I know giving a wine a point value wraps everything up in a neat package, but good beverages have more going on than a score. There is an interesting story, historical aspect, unusual grape variety, innovative growing method, or a winemaking technique involved. I am doing you a disservice if I am not sharing these distinctive aspects, and a two-digit number doesn't do it justice. I will explain...

My job as a retailer, marketing person, and educator is to provide you with quality, concise information about a product so you can make a decision on whether you want to invest your money in it. Additionally, my job is to put aside my own personal tastes and preference and simply share an experience. Then I comment on the following:

Does the juice taste good? (Anything I list here will be worth seeking out in proper context)

What does it taste like? (If I present you a list of flavors and aromas, you can pick out if you like the whole package or not)

What will it cost you? (Everyone has a budget and this is fair to discuss)

That's what I do here. I need to let you know what is inside the bottle and ask if YOU like what it offers; it doesn't matter if I do. Here is an example: suppose I describe a red wine from southern Italy. I tell you it is full-bodied with ripe berry fruit flavors, smells of wild flowers and finishes with a peppery kick for $17. This is par for the course at Flight School. Now, let's say I award this wine 93 points out of 100. If I do this, I have now put it in your head that you should like this wine.

What if you don't? Perhaps you like your reds a little lighter and leaner, or prefer white wines. No matter what, it is not my job to tell you what you should like. I am not here to make you question yourself in your beverage adventures, but rather give you confidence when you are buying something. I am here to show you a product that you would not have thought to look for on your own or were hesitant to spend money on something you have seen, but were unsure about...not judge you for being put off by any wines and spirits I highlight on this site. Additionally, some of what I discuss here is a personal adventure that is just fun to share. It's how I do business when I help customers at the store, and that's how I do business on this blog.

Do you like pineapples and grapefruit? If not, there is no chance you give this wine 92 points on your own scale. Image credit: Deutsch Family Wines & Spirits

Do you like pineapples and grapefruit? If not, there is no chance you give this wine 92 points on your own scale. Image credit: Deutsch Family Wines & Spirits

Look, point systems from the alcohol publications can be a good thing. If you don't know where to start, it is an easy point of reference to help get you in the right direction. The important thing to keep in mind is that you are following an individual's taste profile that might not line up with yours. Even without my use of a ratings system, there will be some degree of subjectivity based on how I describe a whiskey, or a gin, or a white wine to you. I can admit that, and this is why I have always taken scores (and medals) with a grain of salt.

So instead, I focus on interesting characteristics. Is the wine warming and rich, or light and refreshing? Is the Scotch malty, fruity, or spicy? Does this Cognac retain its delicate aromas despite long aging time? Is the gin a juniper-forward Christmas tree in a glass, or is it a softer New World style? How sweet is the finish on this Port wine? Is the Chardonnay buttery and oaky, or zesty and mouthwatering? These are the types of stylistic aspects that will benefit you the most as you explore what you like, and that's the approach I take when sharing recommendations with you...and a number will not properly convey those qualities to you. In the end, your tastes and preferences are just that: yours.

January 10, 2018 /Tony Ambrosini
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I drank all the whisk(e)y. I have no idea if I am happy to have done so, or sad that it's all gone.

I drank all the whisk(e)y. I have no idea if I am happy to have done so, or sad that it's all gone.

Whiskey Advent Calendar Recap: Picking The Favorite Child

January 08, 2018 by Tony Ambrosini

I did it. I made it through the entire Whiskey Advent Calendar that I received as the most unbelievable birthday gift. 24 samples have come and gone, displaying a range of styles from all over the world. There was not a bad one in the bunch, each 30mL sample showing different characteristics. Some were driven by the types of grains used, others by distillation techniques, all with various aging levels. Location of the distillery and warehouse even plays into this, too. I touched on the first four that I opened in the beginning of December before holiday life took over, but now after taking diligent notes and processing everything I can share my thoughts on what I tasted. When I told people about the Advent Calendar, I was often asked, "What has been your favorite?"

Here's how I'll answer that question. Each whiskey brings its own expression to the table: lively or rich, sweet or dry, complex or simple, subtle or forceful. The beauty of all the styles of whiskey out there is that there is a time and a place for all of them and they can all be appreciated when placed in proper context. Some might be better suited for a cocktail rather than enjoying neat with a few drops of water. Others may be comforting and soothing in the winter, while some examples might be lighter and more refreshing in the hot months of summer.

What's my favorite whiskey? It is like trying to pick your favorite child. The Greatest Wife In The World and I have the running joke that our favorite child is the one who sleeps the most at night. My favorite whiskey is the one that is making me happy today. It's all about mood and environment.

So let me share which drams stood out the most. There are several products in the calendar that we have either limited or zero access to in the U.S., and they deserve to be discussed based on their individual merits. However, the whiskies in my top six are all either available in the majority of states or have nationwide distribution. Let's run them down below. Special thanks to the Greatest Wife In The World for going to Master of Malt for an amazing gift.

Honorable Mentions (hard or unable to source in the U.S., but fun to share with you in case you encounter any of these in your travels):

Mackmyra Brukswhisky (approx. $49 via Master of Malt): I wrote of this when I first opened the kit. Even after tasting through the 24 whiskies, the Mackmyra still stands out to me. The combination of delicate floral notes on the nose with red berries and ginger on the palate left a positive mark. We need this here in the states.

Millstone 6 Year Old Dutch Whisky (approx. $62 via Master of Malt): This example from the Zuidam Distillery was a limited release (only 637 bottles were made) and never made it to the U.S. This whisky is malty with banana bread and maple syrup on the palate. On the nose, it's candied walnuts, toffee, and creme brulee. Warm and balanced on the finish. FYI...the Millstone 100 Proof Rye is available in the U.S. if you are looking to try something from this producer.

penderyn-portwood-whisky.jpg

Puni Nova (approx. $62 via Master of Malt): Puni Distillery is located in the far north of Italy, and the young Nova expression has a mash bill of malted barley, malted rye, and malted wheat. Light in color and body, anise, lemons, and cured meats are subtle on the nose. The palate is lively with green herbs and citrus, along a touch of espresso and dark chocolate. Great potential as a summer whiskey or as a base in a cocktail. Puni has some products distributed in California, but it is not widespread yet.

English Whiskey Company Chapter 13 (approx. $90 via Master of Malt): Malt and leather are countered by orange zest and the smell of an old library (just imagine it...you have encountered it before). Dried oranges, malt, and fresh citrus on the palate, which starts off malty and sweet, but finishes lively, spicy, and dry. Origin is St. George's Distillery in Norfolk, England. This was very cool.

Penderyn Welsh Whisky Portwood Finish (approx. $64 via Master of Malt): The Port barrel is noticeable on this killer Welsh whisky from Penderyn. Peach pie, raspberry jam, caramel, and vanilla on the nose. Sweet red and black berries on a rich and full-bodied palate. If you are a fan of Port-finished whisky, then I hope this makes it to the states.

Now for the top six (in no order, all can be had here in the U.S.):

Kavalan ex-Bourbon Oak Single Malt ($115): This Taiwanese producer is gaining a lot of traction in the U.S., with distribution in many states and only gaining a larger footprint. A fragrant whisky with chile peppers, citrus, and an exotic range of savory spices on the nose. On the palate, the spices are there, but finishes like a Bourbon with a vanilla and long toffee-like sweetness. 

teeling-small-batch-whiskey.jpg

Teeling Small Batch Irish Whiskey ($40): Many Irish whiskeys feature unmalted barley, leading to a light and clean profile. Teeling uses a high proportion of malted barley (a la Scotch), and the whiskey spends some time maturing in rum casks. This has a soft and sweet nose, with almond, toasted coconut, apples, and vanilla. On the palate, marshmallows, coconut, pie crust, and chocolate with a full and sweet finish.

The Quiet Man 8 Year Old Single Malt Irish Whiskey ($50): The brand's name comes from the distillery owner's father, who was a bartender in Northern Ireland. For being made from all malted barley, the nose is very clean and fragrant, with floral, citrus, and vanilla cream aromas. On the palate, it is light and gentle with a distinct lemon curd flavor and fresh coconut on the finish. This is incredibly easy to enjoy.

Hudson Manhattan Rye Whiskey ($35): Tuthilltown Spirits in New York's Hudson Valley gives rye whiskey the attention it deserves. Loaded with spicy aromatic intensity, it is like walking into a New York bakery and smelling rye bread. On the palate, it's roasted root vegetables, rosemary, orange peel, nutmeg, and ground black pepper on the finish. At 92 Proof, this is loaded with flavor to make an amazing cocktail. Where's my pastrami sandwich with this?

brenne-french-single-malt-whisky.jpg

Whistlepig 10 Year Vermont Rye ($75): Whistlepig continues to gain accolades with newer expressions rye-based whiskies, and deservedly so. This 10 year example takes a stock of Canadian rye that was destined for blending and instead, Whistlepig aged it, finished it in Bourbon barrel, and bottled it at their Vermont property. This is French toast, dates, and fruitcake on the nose, with candied oranges, scones, maple syrup, and baking spices on the palate. Well worth the spend!

Brenne Cuvée Spéciale French Single Malt ($64): When Cognac and Scotch have a baby, you get Cuvée Spéciale from Brenne. The barley is grown in the Cognac region of France, the whisky matures in French oak, then finishes in Cognac casks. The result is a nose of fruitcake, orange peel, and floral notes. The palate has baked pears, green figs, golden raisins, and a warming vanilla finish. Since I happen to be a Cognac fan, this whisky was right in my wheelhouse.

January 08, 2018 /Tony Ambrosini
Whisky, Whiskey, Rye, Bourbon, Irish, Spirits, Italy, England, Netherlands, France
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How is it that this ancient botanical makes me feel better every time it is infused in my alcohol? There's no medical proof it does, but it works for me every time. Image credit: Grape Tree

How is it that this ancient botanical makes me feel better every time it is infused in my alcohol? There's no medical proof it does, but it works for me every time. Image credit: Grape Tree

Recovering From A 40-Day Blitz, Part II: When Illness Strikes

January 05, 2018 by Tony Ambrosini

After sharing some back-to-basics styles of wines with you earlier this week to recover from the post-holiday overindulgence, let's continue our healing in a different way. Before we continue, here is an important message:

EDITOR'S NOTE: None of what is about to follow is proven to be an aid to your health in any way, with no medical evidence to support these words. This is simply the author sharing an experience that will (hopefully) turn you on to this drink by praising its positive attributes.

There. Now with that out of the way, part two of the recovery around here is not only from the overeating and the overflowing of drink, but rather the vile stomach bug that swiftly ripped through our family on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. After that, the cold and sinus issues ran rampant, leading to the inability to taste anything whether it was food or beverage. Kind of a rough way to spend the holiday break while Mr. Freeze holds Gotham and the rest of the Eastern U.S. hostage. Fortunately, we always have inventory of an important bar item here, especially during the fall and winter months. It is unique, soothing, and packed with flavor. I'm talking about the anise-based elixir known as Sambuca.

If you encounter this and taste it, please tell me about it!

If you encounter this and taste it, please tell me about it!

Anise-based spirits have a long history that dates back to the later days of the Byzantine Empire (around 1200 A.D.), and these botanical-driven drinks were, as was commonplace with most spirits, created as a way to cure some kind of ailment. This led to products such as Raki (Turkey), Ouzo (Greece), and Absinthe (France) being developed in their respective home countries, all of which have varying levels of star anise, supporting cast botanicals (a seemingly countless range of spices and roots), and residual sugar. Italy's Sambuca, often made in southern areas like Calabria, uses star anise as well, but green anise, fennel, and elderflower enter the equation. In fact, Sambuca takes its name from the Latin "sambucus" meaning "elderberry," reflecting a significant component in this drink that didn't gain commercial following until the 1800s. It is often a clear spirit (white Sambuca), but you can also find black Sambuca (higher elderbush and licorice content) or much to my surprise red Sambuca (a noticeable cinnamon and cherry flavor and aroma).

The most recognizable Sambuca label, and for good reason. It gives you everything you need to understand what Sambuca is all about.

The most recognizable Sambuca label, and for good reason. It gives you everything you need to understand what Sambuca is all about.

So here in the Ambrosini household, we keep Sambuca on-hand for use as was done in ancient times...as "medicine." The Greatest Wife In The World and I don't know what it is about Sambuca, perhaps the elderflower content or anise's digestive ability, but it just seems to attack all the sore spots in our system. Does it have healing powers? I don't know for sure and I am not going to be some quack that says it does, but it seems to work for us.

The traditional Italian way of serving Sambuca is neat with three coffee beans to represent health, wealth, and happiness at the end of a meal. Honestly, it makes for a flavorful sweetener in black coffee or espresso, too...something that is a regular occurrence whenever I visit family back home. So whether you use Sambuca as a digestive or just to make you feel better, here are two for you to try. One is easily available, the other might require an order with your retailer, who can turn it around for you in a day if the distributor has it in stock (and is totally worth it).

caffo sambuca.jpg

Romana Sambuca ($25): This is the most recognizable Sambuca brand in the world and it will be very easy to find in any liquor mart. Pronounced anise flavor, mouthcoating, and noticeably sweet, this is a benchmark product that tastes great in coffee as it does a great job offsetting coffee's bitter properties.

Caffo Sambuca Secolare ($20): For $5 less than the Romana, you will get a Sambuca that is not as sweet with more elderflower content and more forward aromatics. If you can get your hands on this, I highly recommend trying it. This is what is in our bar at all times and what we prefer to drink neat.

January 05, 2018 /Tony Ambrosini
Calabria, Liqueurs, Italy, Raki, Ouzo, Absinthe, Sambuca
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Amen, friends.

Amen, friends.

Recovering from a 40-Day Blitz, Part I

January 03, 2018 by Tony Ambrosini
This could not be more true about me at this stage of my life.

This could not be more true about me at this stage of my life.

Well, here we are. It's 2018, and with the way Thanksgiving landed on the calendar this year, there was roughly one extra week leading up to Christmas Day. That's seven more days of rich foods, dessert after lunch, and holiday parties with friends/family/co-workers (I'm already full just writing that last sentence). Additionally, we blew through our budgets for holiday goodies, picking up gifts for others, a roast, baking supplies, booze...whatever it was, December tends to be a time of indulgence among all the cheer and giving.

Who needs resolutions?

Who needs resolutions?

Some of you are looking to get back to some healthier eating and drinking patterns if you went too hard the past forty days. Perhaps your body is looking for a vegetable or a salad to help get things right, maybe even some seafood. If this is the case and you are also a wine-drinker, we can restock the cellar with some solid everyday white and red wines that pair well with some of these so-called "detox" foods, yet still offer warmth and satisfaction considering that a large swath of the country remains under Old Man Winter's icy grip.

So as I warm up my writing chops for this year, I'll keep things simple. Two white wines and two red wines are listed below to help you get 2018 started right. It's a new year, so get to know a some new grapes while enjoying some old favorites.

cercius.jpg

Michel Gassier Cercius ($12): Costières de Nîmes is an outlying region of the Rhône Valley of France, where the bulk of Gassier's wines are labeled. It is a winemaking region that frequently delivers great value in its red wines, and white wines are incredibly cheap. The Cercius is a non-standard blend of Grenache Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc, offering a great balance of texture, body, and mouthwatering acidity that will work with your salads.

L'Ecole No. 41 Old Vine Chenin Blanc, Columbia Valley ($16): This is a great New World take on a Vouvray (Loire Valley) style of Chenin Blanc. Unoaked and fruit-forward, this is a refreshing Chenin Blanc with passionfruit, citrus, and golden apples on the palate with a pleasant floral aroma and a touch of sweetness on the finish. This is going to be tremendous with some sushi or exotically spiced dishes (Thai or Indian cuisine). 

Georges Duboeuf Beaujolais-Villages ($11): This is a versatile old favorite that is great to keep on-hand when you need a light, fruity red. Bursting with red berry fruit, you can enjoy this with sauteed leafy greens like kale and Swiss chard, but it is light enough in tannin where you can also pair this with fish rich in Omega-3s like salmon (FYI...full-bodied, high tannin reds do not mix well with salmon's Omega-3 compounds, leading to a metallic taste in your mouth).

santacarolina pnr.jpg

Santa Carolina Pinot Noir Reserva, Maule Valley ($11): Chile is quickly establishing itself as a good source of inexpensive Pinot Noir, a grape that can be difficult to find wallet-friendly sources of good wine. The example from Santa Carolina has plenty of cherry fruit with earthy tones and a spicy finish. If you are a fan of mushrooms and bean-based dishes, this is an easy one to grab.

January 03, 2018 /Tony Ambrosini
Rhone Valley, Costieres de Nimes, Sauvignon Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Pinot Noir, Chile, France, Beaujolais, Chenin Blanc, Washington
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A New Year Means New Features

December 31, 2017 by Tony Ambrosini

Hello everyone...I hope 2017 was good to you. After the holidays brought illness and frigid weather to the Ambrosini home, I thought it might be time to give a little refreshment to this web site you have been loyally visiting for the past year.

The first item to note is that I have included an Events page, which you can click on at the top menu bar. It's pretty simple...if I know of an exciting event involving booze, I will post it there with as much detail as I have available. Most times, events will reflect what's happening in the local community, but if there is something happening across the country that is an exciting destination I will list it here. Additionally, if you know of something happening in your area that you want the beverage-drinking community to know about, get in touch with me and I can add it to my site.

Next, you will notice a "Site Search" feature. Are you having a hard time remembering that whiskey I wrote about? No problem...go to the Site Search, enter text (such as "whiskey") into the field, then press the enter key, and you will have any mention of whiskey on this blog.

Finally, at the bottom of any page, you will see all the social networks I have connected the blog to. If you want to follow me on Facebook, Instagram, or LinkedIn, simply click any of those icons any you will be directed to my social pages. If you submitted your email address on my "Subscribe" page, you should now finally start receiving my posts in your email box.

I hope everyone has a safe New Year's celebration...cheers to 2018!

December 31, 2017 /Tony Ambrosini
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An amazing gift from an amazing person. I am going to convince you that you need one of these.

An amazing gift from an amazing person. I am going to convince you that you need one of these.

The Whisky Advent Calendar: An Unbelievable Gift

December 05, 2017 by Tony Ambrosini

Later this month, I will celebrate four decades of existence on Earth. I remember seeing these milestone birthdays as a kid, where people received wacky gifts and all of which were attached to being "Over the Hill," or diving into some sort of a mid-life crisis. Now, I can certainly appreciate being of the proper age to wear Tommy Bahama clothing, but The Greatest Wife In The World really stepped up her gift-giving game to meteoric heights that I will never be able to reach. I now have in my possession a Drinks by the Dram Advent Calendar: Whisky Edition, produced by the folks at Masters of Malt.

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Yes, this is a real thing and not some Internet meme or semi-pretend video you keep seeing on social media at this time of year. This is an authentic opportunity to taste 24 unique bottles of ANY SPIRIT, not just whisk(e)y. Are you a rum fan? They have a kit. Cognac? Gin? You name it, they have it. Each of the Advent kits have a 30ml sample for you to try; each bottle is wax sealed so you don't have to worry about leaks during transport. The calendar itself was packaged in a sturdy bubble pack that kept everything intact. There are also other smaller tasting kits that have five or ten 30ml samples that you can enjoy. It seems like Master of Malt has all bases covered. As you can see, I have already begun nerding out and making notes to share with you.

There is the option to customize a box instead of going with the prepackaged selections; The Greatest Wife In The World is doing everything possible to test my education in the subject of whisky, including Scotch, Irish, Japanese, American, and other unusual products from the rest of the world. I may not have tasted everything before, but thus far I have some commercial awareness of the drams behind the windows I have opened. 

Don't worry, non-whisky drinkers...I will not bludgeon you too badly, but what can I say? I'm very excited about this gift. I'm going today's post to four examples. I also know I won't get to a sample each day before Christmas, so I will include what I can to give you a feel for what's in this box. I will include price of each bottle if you were to purchase a full 750ml. Here is the first batch of what I have opened up:

Ledaig 10.jpg

Ledaig 10 Year Old Single Malt Scotch ($57): This is a product of the Tobermory distillery on the Isle of Mull, located right next to the Western Highlands. Ledaig (Led-chig) is the peated label, which takes its name from the 57 acre plot upon which Tobermory was founded back in 1798. This is not very malty, but rather clean and aromatic with green herbs, seaweed and applewood smoke. Briny and smoky on the palate, it finishes with a smoked meat character that becomes rich and savory with additional time.

Highland Park 12 Year old label

Highland Park 12 Year old label

The Highland Park's repackaged 12 Year label, along with the rest of their range, reflects the Norse roots of the distillery's founder. 

The Highland Park's repackaged 12 Year label, along with the rest of their range, reflects the Norse roots of the distillery's founder. 

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Highland Park 12 Year Old Single Malt Scotch ($54): This is, and always will be, my smoky style example of single malt Scotch that I use in my classes. Highland Park uses about 80% unpeated malt and the balance peated with the local Orcadian peat; this leads to smoky-but-floral, delicate whisky on the nose. On the palate, it has citrus and green apples with a little tropical fruit and spice. The peat subsides and gives way to fresh oranges on the finish.

Mackmyra Brukswhisky ($N/A): So here's the rub with this Swedish whisky...there is no US distribution. That's one reason why this was special to taste. The nose is soft, with honey and chamomile tea aroma. On the palate, the whisky is light and lively with red berries, ginger and pepper, while the finish is black licorice. Master of Malt essentially acts as their distribution arm out of the UK, but if you were to order a single 750ml bottle from them, you are looking at about $80 if you factor bottle cost plus shipping cost. Here's hoping we get greater access to their product line.

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Amrut Fusion Single Malt Whisky ($67): This was an amazing whisky and it hails from India! Where do I begin...the candied oranges, chili powder, and savory-smoky peat, or the rich dried tropical fruits (mango, papaya)? This finishes savory and earthy, though I have to admit that this whisky changed so much with each sip over time. Adding water tempers the fiery peat (and 100 proof alcohol) and lets the fruitiness come through. This is a real treat that has US distribution and provided a great contrast to the Swedish whisky. 

December 05, 2017 /Tony Ambrosini
Scotch, Sweden, India, whisky, Whiskey
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How do you find a wine to go with all of these flavors and textures? Image credit: Country Living

How do you find a wine to go with all of these flavors and textures? Image credit: Country Living

The Obligatory Wines To Go With Thanksgiving Post

November 18, 2017 by Tony Ambrosini

It arrived rather quickly, but those of us who haven't already moved on to Christmas are making preparations for Thanksgiving Day. It's one of my favorite holidays; I get to eat, drink, and watch football in a larger quantity than I would on any autumn Sunday. I love how the air smells; it is filled with all kinds of sweet and savory goodness. It's many of the usual suspects for the majority of us, right? Turkey, stuffing, cranberry sauce, veggies, and pies are typical, but if you aren't a turkey fan, or a meat eater at all, there might be some other items coming out of the oven or perhaps off of a barbecue.

Nevertheless, the blitz of food needs some tasty beverages to help keep everything moving. While I know beer, cocktails, and sippin' spirits are all delicious, the scope of today's post is to help you find some good wine options. With Thanksgiving serving as our first major feast day of the cold weather months, chances are you will be bringing out a ton of different food options, including the ones I mentioned above. So how do you go about choosing a good wine for foods that will taste rich, savory, herbaceous, fruity, and so on? Here is one basic rule of thumb to follow:

Keep it simple.

I know that's a vague statement on my part, but honestly it holds true here. You will have so many aromas, flavors and textures fighting one another on your plate that you need a wine to bring it all together. It should typically be one that has plenty of acidity (to help you digest large volumes of food), straightforward fruitiness, and body (to harmonize everything on the plate). Certain parts of the meal are enhanced even more if the wine has an interesting spice or floral note. On the other end of the spectrum, if you are looking to break out that super-expensive bottle from the cellar, Thanksgiving dinner isn't necessarily the time for that. The high-end wines that have a ton of complex flavors never get the chance to stand out. Save the special bottle for a simple-yet-elegant dinner (you will see what I mean when I do my Christmas post. Trust me, so stay tuned).

Barberani's Castagnolo Orvieto Classico ($21) has distinct sage, thyme, and anise spice to complement the apple and stone fruit of this wine.

Barberani's Castagnolo Orvieto Classico ($21) has distinct sage, thyme, and anise spice to complement the apple and stone fruit of this wine.

For example, Italian wines can have a pleasant herbaceousness or anise spice. Pinot Noir that spends time in French oak imparts a range of baking spices like cinnamon and cloves. Pinot Gris has some body and texture to help stand up to the rich foods, as well as a floral quality. Riesling's strong aromatics and inherent fruity/floral quality makes it versatile enough to play with all parts of the meal. Beaujolais wines are berry-scented and versatile with plenty of acidity to make your mouth water. I mean, even the candy-like Beaujolais Nouveau (which the wine academic types sneer at) is perfect for just staying lubricated during marathon eating sessions. Of course, the easiest fallback option is to grab some sparkling wine, which I acknowledge is "cheating" when it comes to pairing, but what's a feast without bubbles?

Additionally, if you are looking to try something different, look to Sherry or Saké. Dry Sherry has nutty and savory characteristics and is the magic potion for dealing with difficult-to-pair foods like nuts, olives, and green foods. Light and dry Saké does very well with salty snacks and appetizers. For more details on exploring this route, you should go visit my friend The Passionate Foodie, who has great ideas on how to approach these two wine styles with Thanksgiving dinner.

So let's get to some recommendations! These are all well-made wines from producers who I respect. I hope you seek some of these out and give them a try.

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Domaine de la Prebende Beaujolais ($15): Fermented in both stainless steel and concrete tanks, this is a fruity red wine that will give you the versatility you need, with that touch of sweet spice that makes this wine feel like fall in a glass.

Willamette Valley Vineyards "Whole Cluster" Pinot Noir ($24): This is a wine that gives you the fruitiness of a Beaujolais wine plus a range of earthy spice and coffee that Oregon Pinot Noir can provide. Willamette Valley Vineyards ferments whole bunches of grapes, using the carbonic maceration method that is popular in the Beaujolais region. A different expression of Pinot Noir that will do its duty at the dinner table.

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Hillersden Marlborough Pinot Gris ($18): New Zealand has become overwhelmingly well-known for its distinct Sauvignon Blancs, but let's also get to know their other wines! Here is a copper-hued Pinot Gris from vines that reached optimal maturity for producing quality wine. Citrus and stone fruit flavors dominate, with brief "sur-lie" aging to round out the texture and counteract the acidity. Very clean and refreshing.

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Charles Bove Touraine Sparkling Rosé ($19): You can always go with a Cava or a Prosecco for something simple and bubbly, but lets go with something pink. This is 70% Cabernet Franc, 30% Gamay...and 100% awesome. The combination of aromatics and fruit marries so well with the 18 months lees aging, giving you a sparkler that gives you a great feel for traditional method wines in the Loire Valley. Fresh, fruity, and bone-dry, this is one to enjoy all day long.

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Conte Vistarino Sangue di Giuda Costiolo, ($19): Don't forget about dessert! Literally translating to "Blood of Judas," this sweet wine is a specialty of the Oltrepo Pavese region of Lombardy. This is a blend of Barbera, Croatina, and Uva Rara, all plentifully found in this growing zone of Italy. Think of this as a lighter Port wine, where the alcohol is far lower at around 7% abv. This is a very lively wine with plenty of acidity, bursting with berry fruit, finishing clean and without a sticky, cloying sensation. Give it a shot with an apple-cranberry or blueberry pie!

November 18, 2017 /Tony Ambrosini
Orvieto, Beaujolais, Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris, Oregon, New Zealand, Sangue di Giuda, Italy, Umbria, Lombardy, Loire Valley, Sparkling Wine
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Do you like to drink with this stuff? Image credit: Business Insider

Do you like to drink with this stuff? Image credit: Business Insider

The Obligatory Wine With Halloween Candy Post

October 30, 2017 by Tony Ambrosini

It's that time of year! Get ready for (if you haven't seen them yet) the blitz of articles about pairing wine and other booze with Halloween candy.

Before I get into the meat of this topic, let me start with this: Halloween is quite the production in my neighborhood. Everyone around here understands we have a window of time to celebrate and generally just have a good time. When it's done, it's done; people have jobs to get to and life to deal with the next day. During that time, however, the neighborhood has fire pits and music. Some houses have some tasty beverages for the adults to sample while kids get the traditional range of "fun size" candies, along with a sprinkling of full-size confections from the really awesome houses.

So whether you end up enjoying Halloween with the neighborhood for a few hours, or end up coming back from trick-or-treating with the kids to knock down a beverage or two, there's always one thing to remember if you are going to pair your booze of choice with candy:

Make sure your drink is (or seems) sweeter than the candy you are eating.

I can't stress that point enough. Dry wines and light beers are going to taste very thin and harsh with just about any type of candy, whether it is fruit flavored, chocolatey, peanut buttery, or anything else. Sorry, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, and many Italian white wines...you are out. IPAs and (Insert macrobrew here) Lite? So are you. High-tannin or light-bodied red wines? Brutal. Your beer and wine will just taste astringent and tart. These are all mighty fine adult beverages and I love them all...just not today.

However, there are some ways to get around this rule of thumb when it comes to drinking with candy, especially if you just don't like sweet wine or other alcoholic beverages. Sometimes playing around with flavor composition, illusions of sweetness, and texture can help make a pairing work.

Less than an hour away from home, Two Roads has always delivered on just about any beer I have had from them. The Oktoberfest is no different.

Less than an hour away from home, Two Roads has always delivered on just about any beer I have had from them. The Oktoberfest is no different.

Let's start with the beer-drinkers. While most beers aren't necessarily sweet, there is a component of a brew that can give you the impression of sweetness on your palate: malt. That's right...most malty beers feel full-bodied and creamy with a caramel/chocolate/toffee flavor profile. These are all the aspects of a malty beer that can play nicely with your Twix, Kit-Kats, and Butterfingers. Newcastle Brown Ale and other English Brown Ales work nicely with these candies. Additionally, go for what is readily available at this time of year: Oktoberfest/Märzen style beers. These are a little lighter and not quite as malty as a Brown Ale, but has some of the sweet fall baking spice notes. Whether you go with the ubiquitous-but-steady Sam Adams or a local craft brewery, you can't go wrong (assuming you like the style, of course). If you prefer to steal the fruity candies like Starbursts and Skittles from your kids, try a Fruit Lambic; Lindemans tends to be the most readily available of this style and finishes sweeter than other producers.

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Now, what do we do about wine? If you are not a sweet wine lover, then we need to find wines that are full-bodied, fruity, and assertive. Oaked Chardonnay does the trick with the bold, tropical fruit flavor, butterscotch and cream (the byproduct of malolactic fermentation), and sweet spices. Look no further than the outwardly named "Butter" by JaM Cellars. It's going to have all of that for about $15. Great for popping the candy corns or even milk chocolate.

Fruit-forward, full-bodied reds can work wonders with candy.

Fruit-forward, full-bodied reds can work wonders with candy.

For a "dry" red, Australian Shiraz and California Zinfandel can be so ripe, full-bodied, and jammy, the wines will leave you with a sweet sensation on the finish. Yalumba Y Series Shiraz ($15) or Bogle's Old Vine Zinfandel ($10) keeps things simple and straightforward. The red fruit bomb that is the Zinfandel and the raisiny/figgy/peppery character of the Shiraz will each give you what you need for dark chocolate candy.

A little off the beaten path, but worth trying if you find it. Alvear offers terrific value with all of their products.

A little off the beaten path, but worth trying if you find it. Alvear offers terrific value with all of their products.

For the sweet wines, Port and dark chocolate has long been an essential pairing; the complexity of each feeds off of one another. You can also consider the syrupy, chocolatey, and mouthcoating Pedro Ximinez ("PX") Sherries; PX can be poured over ice cream for some serious indulgence if rummaging through Halloween candy isn't good enough. It will just overwhelm any confection you throw at it, though it will play well with a Snickers or Reese's since Sherry generally has a nutty character to it. Bodegas Alvear's Solera Cream ($18) is made with 100% PX grapes in the region of Montilla-Moriles, a production area more inland with a hotter climate than the traditional Sherry regions. As a result, the wines are less expensive.

We haven't touched on enough wine to drink with your fruity candies. Go big or go home, I say, with the Hungarian sweet wine known as Tokaji [toe-KYE]. Royal Tokaji Wine Company Red Label Tokaji is peachy, citrusy, and full of honey. There is always Ice Wine from Canada, the Finger Lakes, and Austria that are delicate, fruity, and sweet, but with plenty of acid to prevent the wine from feeling sticky sweet on your palate. Inniskillin is a well-known Canadian producer as is Nigl of Austria. If you are willing to spend $40 for a 500mL bottle, dive in (then save whatever is left in the bottle to enjoy with fruit tarts and cakes on a later date).

A mere ounce of this stuff instantly boosts the flavor of any beverage. Feel free to go inexpensive on the vodka. I won't tell.

A mere ounce of this stuff instantly boosts the flavor of any beverage. Feel free to go inexpensive on the vodka. I won't tell.

Now, what if you are into spirits? Well, one of the easiest things you can do is hook yourself up with a flavored vodka of choice, mix with lemonade, and be on your way to gorging on Skittles, Sour Patch Kids, Jolly Ranchers, and Gummi Bears/Worms/Other Creatures. One concoction we enjoy in the summer is blueberry vodka with lemonade, and honestly you can get away with that year round. Or, grab the magic Cognac and raspberry liqueur known as Chambord ($35-ish) and add that to your flavored vodka. No Twizzler stands a chance.

Here are some others you can work with as well in the spirits department: Bailey's Irish Cream and a Milky Way, El Dorado 12 Year Rum with any caramel candy (or even those banana Laffy Taffy things), and Champagne and pretzels (there will be pretzels in the candy bag, I promise you...and that's a good reason to drink Champagne).

Hey, have fun with this. I have seen some posts out there on the topic that give zero explanation as to why any of the pairings work. Hopefully, I make some sense with my line of thinking, but I would also love to hear what you enjoy with the Halloween haul. Just remember this: alcohol and sugar dehydrate you. Consume both for long periods of time without some water or other food in-between shoveling in the sweets can lead to some wretched hangovers. Enjoy the evening in moderation and, of course, be safe!

October 30, 2017 /Tony Ambrosini
Beer, Icewine, Champagne, Italy, Cognac, Rum, Liqueurs, Sherry, Pedro Ximenez, Port, Spain, Vodka, Chardonnay, Shiraz, Zinfandel, Tokaji, Hungary, California, Australia, Austria
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Limited in space or on dollars? Don't let that stop you from stocking your home bar! Image credit: The Cocktail Project

Limited in space or on dollars? Don't let that stop you from stocking your home bar! Image credit: The Cocktail Project

Build Your Bar: A Dozen Essentials Help You To Get Started

October 25, 2017 by Tony Ambrosini

As much as I love to dive into wine, distilled spirits has dominated my beverage landscape as of late; it comes with the territory of running classes in this category at the store. As a result, I have managed to build up a bit of inventory in my home bar over the past year, all while understanding some of the differences among the huge range of options available to us all.

For those of you who are attempting to build your own inventory, my guess is there are mixed feelings out there. There is the camp of people who have brands they love and will always go to with ease, while others don't know what to seek out and spend hard-earned money on. It can be difficult for the latter group; you want to have a complete set of bar staples for guests or mixing cocktails, but you may not be sure what to drop $20-$40 on that will deliver for you.

Wine lovers, you may remember when we built a case of wine together that goes easy on the wallet; our task was to keep the case to $120-$150. If you were to buy the spirit essentials you need, you will easily spend more since the average price per bottle of quality spirits are high than it is for wine. Fortunately, you can do this for about $250. That's right...a full bar that gives you versatility, enjoyment, and outstanding value for roughly twice what we paid to get the wine inventory started.

Let's do this thing. I find that as long as you have one of each of the following spirits/mixers, you can make most classic cocktails, plus give yourself some things to sip straight if you like. In no particular order: Blended Scotch Whisky, Bourbon Whiskey, gin, rum, vodka, Tequila, Cognac, sweet vermouth, dry vermouth, orange liqueur, bitters, and tonic water. Yes, I know tonic water is non-alcoholic, but there are some great artisanal options for you to choose from these days and can be a major component in cocktails. Pick up some lemons, limes, and a small bottle of hot sauce, and you are in business.

Now for specifics on the Big Twelve bar essentials. You will be able to get away with spending no more than $35 on any of these bottles. These are all solid. Please note that spirits pricing can fluctuate depending on where you live, how much your retailer can buy to keep costs down, or depending on whether a category is generally trending up or down.

For your whisk(e)y:

Famous Grouse or Johnnie Walker Black Label blended Scotch whisky ($35 ea.)

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If you are a fan of the Rob Roy or Rusty Nail, then you need some good blended Scotch whisky. Alternatively, each option can be enjoyed as-is. For my fellow Scotch nerds and newbies alike, Famous Grouse is a blend made from the malt whisky of Macallan and Highland Park, two distilleries owned by the same company as Famouse Grouse: The Edrington Group. The red grouse on the label is Scotland's national game bird, and Famous Grouse is the top selling blended Scotch in Scotland. This is gentle and well-balanced.

Johnnie Walker is the top selling blended Scotch in the United States and worldwide, with 40 different whiskies making up the blend. The peated portion of the whisky comes from Caol Ila and Talisker, and all whiskies used in the blend were aged at least 12 years. Johnnie Walker is notably smokier than Famous Grouse. Despite Scotch being incredibly popular with prices on the rise, both Famous Grouse and Johnnie Walker Black remain solid values and you can't go wrong with either.

Bulleit or Larceny Bourbon Whiskey ($28 ea.)

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I once again present two options. When it comes to Bourbon, there are two fairly distinct groups: low-rye and high-rye. Consider this to be similar in a way to peated or unpeated Scotch. The higher the rye content, the more aromatic and assertive its flavors will be. Less rye means corn's soft texture and sweetness will come out.

Bulleit has a citrusy and spicy character, and bottled at 90 proof, it can withstand the addition of other ingredients that will tamp down some of the rye in your Old Fashioned or Manhattan. Larceny, a new product getting a lot of play out on the market has not only a lower rye profile, but also some wheat, making for a gentler Bourbon. Larceny has more of a honeyed, toffee-like character that is definitely suited for sipping.

For your brandy:

Camus VS Cognac ($30)

Hennessy is very popular, and has the skyrocketing price to match. I know it wasn't that long ago that I wrote about it, but it should be a bar staple.

For your Tequila:

Cazadores Silver ($25)

Am I being lazy? Maybe, but again it will deliver on the price for you as I wrote in my classic cocktails post on Margaritas.

For your rum:

Plantation 3 Stars White Rum ($20)

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Created by well-respected Cognac producer Maison Ferrand, Plantation 3 Stars is made up of rums from Trinidad, Barbados, and Jamaica. Some components from Jamaica and Trinidad are aged, while other Jamaican components and Barbados are unaged. Ferrand uses a "proprietary filtration process" to strip out color from barrel aging without stripping away flavor (which can happen in many instances with charcoal filtration). The result is a full-bodied and complex white rum that you can mix or drink straight with a little chill on it. This is one of the best bargains I have seen in any spirit category and is worth the extra $3-$5 over the better-known Bacardi.

For your Vodka:

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Tito's Handmade Vodka ($23)

Tito Beveridge (a name that seems destined to be in this industry) created this Texas-based pot-distilled vodka that is now the top-selling spirits brand in the United States. Pot-distilled vodkas have some body to them (a la Ketel One), making this a vodka you could sip neat if well-chilled. I can also testify that this made a killer base for a Bloody Mary during a football tailgate party! Despite the brand's overwhelming success, Tito's is still very reasonably priced.

For your Gin:

Gordon's London Dry Gin ($20)

For the traditional, juniper-forward gin drinkers out there, this should fall right in your strike zone. Tanqueray is another option as well, which is bottled at a higher proof (great for not losing delicate citrus and floral aromas/flavor when mixing cocktails), but you may spend a few more dollars. Gordon's is the top selling gin brand in the world with its mass appeal and easy mixability.

For your vermouth:

Martini & Rossi Sweet ($11) and Dry ($11) Vermouth

There's no need to get too fancy here. If you are on a limited budget, the M&R products are the way to go. They do the job just fine when you are getting started. Sweet vermouth works for your Negroni, Manhattan, and Rob Roy, while the dry vermouth will mix fine with your Martini or act as a flavor-booster in your cooking (a fine addition in Carbonara pasta, for the record).

For your orange liqueur:

Agavero Orange ($23) or Caffo Solara Triple Orange ($25)

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This comes down to what you like to do with your cocktails. If you are REALLY into Margaritas, the Agavero is a Tequila-based orange liqueur that meshes nicely with Tequila (thanks, Captain Obvious!), also costing you less than the Patron version. If you seek versatility in cocktails, where many of them call for triple sec/orange liqueur, the Caffo from Italy gives you good, fiery orangey flavor. As a reference point, Cointreau (as much as I adore it) hits the $30 mark in some markets. Again, we are seeking value, so either of these will do a solid job for you.

Additional mixers:

Angostura Bitters ($6)

This is a staple that can't be overlooked. Yes, it is everywhere and readily available, but for good reason. It is solid. As you continue progressing in building your inventory, we can talk about that...and we will (how's that for a tease?)!

Fever Tree Tonic ($6/4-pack)

Here's your "splurge" product. I can't say enough about the clean flavors Fever Tree provides. Aside from the flagship tonic, they have flavored versions such as lemon and elderflower that will add extra depth of flavor to your Gin (or Vodka) & Tonic. Don't believe me? Taste Fever Tree alongside Schweppe's or Canada Dry and you will become a convert!

So there it is! This is an outstanding starting point for building up your personal bar. These twelve items will help you get the ball rolling and serve as your baseline for branching out...and we will cover that sooner than later!

October 25, 2017 /Tony Ambrosini
Spirits, Cognac, Bourbon, Scotch, Vermouth, Rum, Tequila, Gin, Vodka, Liqueurs
1 Comment
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Grapegrowing and Winemaking is a Hazardous Passion

October 17, 2017 by Tony Ambrosini

A before and after of Signorello Vineyards in Napa. The winery was destroyed by wildfires, but fortunately it sounds like vineyards are intact (Image credit: Suzanne Espinosa/Twitter)

I will admit that I have lived the month of October with tunnel vision. I often forget how loaded my fall schedule gets, both personally and professionally. However, global catastrophic natural disasters are difficult to ignore. It has been a busy hurricane season, where Puerto Rico and the Gulf Coast regions and have been hit hard and are still recovering. There have been devastating earthquakes in Mexico. Then there are the raging California wildfires that are ripped through the heart of wine country in Napa, Sonoma, and Mendocino, and new blazes started to the south in the Santa Cruz Mountains area.

From the viewpoint of the wine drinker, this is really difficult news to hear. Some of us have visited Napa Valley or the Russian River Valley, taken tours of wineries, and enjoyed the romantic, peaceful landscapes of the manicured vineyards. We have made mental and emotional connections to these places, so when we read about a winery being decimated or fields on fire it hurts a little.

Now...take that unsettled feeling you have and multiply it by 100 or 1,000, and you can feel the same way a winery owner does. Or a vineyard worker. Or a tasting room manager.

Frosted grapes: great for some, terrible for many.

Frosted grapes: great for some, terrible for many.

Sometimes, we take things for granted when we go pick up that California red blend in our local wine shop. Remember, it is an agricultural product that we enjoy. Grapevines are subjected to a range of weather conditions (wet, dry, cold, hot, sunny, windy); some grapes are built for excessive heat (Grenache) or cooler tempratures (Riesling), others aren't. Rain close to harvest time can lead to diluted grapes and humid conditions can lead to moldy grapes. Springtime frosts can damage tender shoots and buds that have yet to become grapes. Early fall frosts can kill off leaves that are necessary for photosynthesis to help grapes fully ripen. The vineyard manager will watch weather reports religiously to make a decision on when to pick grapes. Even during harvest time, making sure grapes are picked in cooler temperatures is paramount to preserving a grape's refreshing acids and preventing early oxidation.

The evil little monster that destroys vineyards: Phylloxera

The evil little monster that destroys vineyards: Phylloxera

Vineyards are also subjected to a variety of pests and diseases. Phylloxera is the most infamous in history; it is a louse that feeds on a vine's roots and slowly kills it. The Great French Wine Blight happened in the mid-1800s thanks to these evil little SOBs. 40% of French vineyards were wiped out, crushing the economy. This led to an important discovery that French vines could be grafted onto American roots to resist phylloxera's attacks. Vineyard owners also have to deal with birds and other animals trying to eat ripe grapes.

You also have other specialty producers who need perfect or near-perfect conditions to make the wines they want to. Champagne producers want less-ripe grapes, since the high acidity in those grapes is essential in quality sparkling winemaking. Icewine producers need frozen grapes on the vines; if they don't get that, no Icewine is made. Same goes for Sauternes, the nobly rotten sweet wine region. Sauternes needs consistent cool morning mists followed by warm dry afternoons in the fall to create the environment for a benevolent mold to set into healthy grapes, which concentrates sugars. If Sauternes doesn't get this defined weather pattern, no Sauternes wine is made. If the weather is too damp for several days, the bad mold can set in. Grapes have to be discarded and the harvest is lost.

I didn't want my first post in two weeks to paint this doom and gloom picture, but the truth is that there is a lot riding on natural conditions for vineyards and wineries to have a successful vintage. There is so much to account for and some of it is completely out of a winery's control. It's a constant battle to fight pests and disease. When large-scale events like wildfires enter the picture, the situation becomes so much more stressful for the wine producer. Fortunately, over 99% of the harvests were completed prior to the outbreak of the fires, and by the way...don't let anyone tell you the 2017 harvest is tainted by smoke getting into the grapes. Your wine will be fine when it gets to the bottle.

So today, I ask you to grab a bottle of California wine and enjoy it as a way to support the folks working hard while dealing with a massive amount of chaos. Not a wine person? Try some Texas whiskey, Florida microbrew, or Puerto Rico rum. If anyone is looking for another way to help California wine country get back on its feet, my colleagues at SevenFifty have set up a GoFundMe page. Here's hoping recovery happens sooner rather than later.

October 17, 2017 /Tony Ambrosini
California, Napa, Sonoma, Mendocino
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It's time to majestically discuss and drink single malt Scotch. Image credit: The Daily Record (UK)

It's time to majestically discuss and drink single malt Scotch. Image credit: The Daily Record (UK)

The Waves Of Whisky Have Hit Me Hard

September 29, 2017 by Tony Ambrosini in Education

It amazes me how fast the switch flips from the slower-paced summer months to the breakneck speed of September. It's not just school year adjustments, but all the fall extracurricular activity quickly spikes up. Additionally, my life as a professional drinker means there is less time for actual drinking and more time spent running classes and promoting events. Along with that, just staying current with the world of adult beverages by reading up on certain topics or even meeting with folks in the industry can present a different set of challenges. Fortunately, the start of autumn led me to a whole lot of time spent studying, learning, presenting, and even tasting whisky.

What can I say...of all the beautiful spirits available, I can't help but profess my love of distilled grains. I have so many choices to get cozy with, and with so many options at our disposal, there is bound to be one you like...even if you claim to not like whisky. This theory could easily be put to the test based on my Mastering Single Malts series that I am leading at Divine Wine. Last Thursday night, we spent a session covering all of Scotland's regions of whisky production. In the class, we discussed the stylistic differences and how flavor and aroma are impact by techniques used in each of the region's distilleries. We also covered environmental differences, such as a distillery's proximity to the coastline, water and peat sources, and so much more. 

If you need a reminder, the term "single malt Scotch" refers to a single distillery's whisky produced from 100% malted barley and aged at least three years in old oak barrels. All aspects of production must take place in Scotland. To think that this is all you need to follow to call your product single malt Scotch, how do we end up with a gigantic range of selections with different styles, quality levels, and price points?

We had an interesting lesson, even some debate, as to whether it is a region or an individual distillery's character that dictates a style of single malt Scotch whisky. Typically, the regions have been lumped into certain "flavor camps" over the years, but honestly you can have a heavily peated Highland whisky or an unpeated Islay whisky. It all comes down to identifying a "house style," which is a flavor expectation each time you sip your dram. Along the same lines, a Champagne producer will have an identifyable style every time you taste its sparkling wine. The distilleries and Champagne houses are building unique brands.

Image credit: Ace Spirits

Image credit: Ace Spirits

For your reference, here are the regions we are dealing with when it comes to Scotch, and what their whisky typically tastes like.

Speyside: the highest concentration of distilleries are located in this subsection of the Highlands. Lots of water sources and and variations in the landscape lead to a wide range of styles, but generally speaking Speyside Scotch can show up either fruity or malty. Southern Speyside tends to have softer, lighter flavors.

Lowlands: Gained a reputation for lighter, more delicate spirits as this was a center of grain/blended Scotch production. Single malts evolved this way, too, and the Lowlands should be given plenty of respect for its fragrant maltiness.

Highlands: A large physical geography with many variations. Coastal distilleries feel the salt air, particularly in the Western Highlands, leading to rich and briny whiskies. Southern Highlands show more "green" flavors with delicate aromas. Eastern Highland Scotch has a lot of flavor and structure, meaning they can stand up to long aging. The Northern Highlands are fruity and full-bodied. This is a region where possibly more than any it pays to get to know the individual distilleries when searching for a style you like.

Islay (EYE-lah): An ancient island where peat dominates thanks to it being a traditional fuel (as opposed to the mainland having access to coal). Scotch whisky is generally bold and fiery from here. This is Scotch for the IPA beer-lover thanks to its assertiveness.

Islands: Technically part of the Highlands, whiskies can be similar to Islay in style as peat is often used, but not all the time. Salty, seaweed flavors are noticeable, and peat (particular from the northern Islands of Orkney and Skye) is less aggressive, but smoky. Other islands, like Jura, or fragrant and piney without being peaty. There is no uniform style for an "island" whisky, but each island has distinct character. 

Campbeltown: Located on a peninsula, this town was once a major hub of malt whisky production before a high number of distilleries closed due to lack of demand for their heavy, oily, complex whiskies. Today, the few distilleries remaining have carved out a niche with an old-school, rich pre-Prohibition style.

That's what you are dealing with in a nutshell and is a great starting point for you when you explore the regions of Scotland. If you still need a starting point to work off of, here is what we tasted last week! These are all considered flagship products that are typical of each distillery's style. There is something for everyone in this range of products.

Here is the lineup from the regional session of the Scotch class! Details below...

Here is the lineup from the regional session of the Scotch class! Details below...

Glenlivet 12 Year Old, Speyside: This is the top-selling single malt in the U.S., and I can understand why. It is gentle, soft, lightly fruity with green apple flavors, and it has a floral fragrance that makes this easy to enjoy. It's an easy one to keep in your bar.

Cragganmore 12 Year Old, Speyside: This hits the other end of the spectrum for Speyside malts, with rich, nutty flavors. Each time you stick your nose in the glass, you smell something new. Berries, pears, herbs, and walnuts all show up in this dram and has a long, lingering finish.

Auchentoshan 12 Year Old, Lowlands: Citrusy with breakfast cereal/baked oatmeal flavors. Vanilla, ginger, and nutmeg make this whisky taste like fall in a glass.

Dalmore 12 Year Old, Northern Highlands: Rich and full-bodied with dried fruit flavors (figs, dates) and candied oranges. With sherry casks involved, you can taste the nutty, saline flavors on the finish, but still wrapped up in the dried fruit flavor.

Springbank 10 Year Old, Campbeltown: Oily texture but intensely aromatic. It has a delicate texture with pears and apples, but also has a smoky maltiness on the palate. Finishes like apple pie after the smoke subsides. This is almost like drinking all of the regions in one glass.

Lagavulin 16 Year Old, Islay: Bold, fiery and intense, Lagavulin is a bonfire on the beach, with salty, almost bacony flavors. When you taste the whisky a second time, there is tropical fruit flavor underneath all the peat smoke. One to drink in front of a roaring fire.

 

September 29, 2017 /Tony Ambrosini
Whisky, Scotch
Education
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What You Are Drinking For NFL Week 3

September 20, 2017 by Tony Ambrosini in NFL Drinking Schedule

What the heck does a California middle school and Thomas Jefferson's estate have to do with football? This isn't a flashback to my history class, is it?

Let me be honest...getting adjusted to the back-to-school routine has been difficult. The combination of that plus some other classes I am working on at the store are taking up a good portion of my time. That being said, I have no excuse for not continuing to share how you can drink well when you have the window to enjoy an adult beverage. Fortunately, the football season helps write the script for me, and this week we have any easy inroad to include wine! Sunday night's matchup features the Oakland Raiders and the Washington Redskins; each city is a reasonable drive to several quality vineyards in Northern California and throughout Virginia (yes, I realize the Washington stadium is in Maryland, but whatever. It's my site).

Look, we can go to so many wineries for our choice to represent the Raiders, but understand something about this franchise. Late owner Al Davis always did things his way, and one of the things he had established in 1996 was to hold his team's summer training camp in Napa, Redwood Middle School to be exact. Yes, this is the same Napa where pristine, well-manicured vineyards that produce some of the most opulent and rich styles of wine found anywhere on earth are located. This brings me to a visit I took for my work-study trip after claiming my WSET Diploma. I never actually made a recommendation on what to taste from Cuvaison, which was one of my two winery visits. It is not easy to do, especially when my visit involved tasting a lot of different clones of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay (which led to the different cuvées that are now the finished wines available to you for purchase) inside of a brand-spanking new facility. The options are all solid. In the end, if you have a chance to get your hands on a Cuvaison Chardonnay or Pinot Noir, you are getting a shimmering New World example of pure fruit meeting intelligent use of barrel-aging, where the wine is not overwhelmed by oakiness and woodiness.

Virginia may not be well-known nationally along the lines of the west coast regions or even New York's Finger Lakes. However, the next batch of states that includes serious winemaking and viticulture know-how includes Virginia. Need proof? You can visit any of the 17 wine trails and have yourself a very good time. But for our purposes, it is difficult to discuss wine, especially Virginian wine, without including Thomas Jefferson. Jefferson was a wine-lover and President George Washington's Secretary of State. Prior to that role, he was a Minister to France; his trips to Europe opened his eyes to the world of wine, becoming quite knowledgeable to the point where he took such comprehensive notes and purchased so many wines to bring back to the United States, he helped build the President's wine cellar. Jefferson also had the dream to grow European grape varieties (the popular ones we all know and love) in the Eastern U.S. The goal never panned out before his passing, but today the Monticello wine trail might be the heartbeat of Virginia wine with the state's most popular winery of Barboursville leading the way. There is a great story on how a multi-generation Italian wine family left a lasting impact on this property's fortunes in the wine industry.

So today will be one of the few weeks I can make straight wine recommendations. No beer. No whiskey. Just great-tasting adult grape juice. Enjoy what should be another entertaining game along the lines of last week!

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Cuvaison Spire Carneros Pinot Noir ($55): Carneros is one of the cooler parts of the North Coast, with fog and mist that can linger until lunchtime, before giving way to warmth and abundant sunshine. The Spire Pinot Noir offers a foil to the brute force of a football game with elegance, liveliness, and ripe fruit. All of the berry fruits are in this wine, with baking spices and a touch of cola and smoke. It will give your senses something to focus on during the commercial breaks.

Barboursville Viognier ($22): No barrels. No malolactic fermentation (the process leading to buttery/butterscotch flavors in wine). Just pure fruit expression of the aromatic white Rhône variety, with some aging on the lees to add a layer of complexity akin to fresh baked bread. With Viognier's apricot, tropical, and floral aromas, this is a great example of what Virginia is capable of and it is totally worth the price tag. Drinking this wine is like enjoying jam and bread...really easy.

September 20, 2017 /Tony Ambrosini
Napa, Carneros, Virginia, California
NFL Drinking Schedule
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What You Are Drinking For NFL Week 2

September 14, 2017 by Tony Ambrosini in NFL Drinking Schedule

Two very different cities with one thing in common: football teams with explosive offenses that are must-see television on Sunday night.

Yeah, last Sunday night was a snoozefest. Even Dallas Cowboys fans have to admit that was a boring show, but this week's Sunday night game is shaping up to be much different, especially to the casual fan.

This week's contest takes us to Atlanta, where the Falcons open up their brand new billion-dollar stadium against the Green Bay Packers. This is a rematch of the January NFC Championship game, where the Falcons ran the Packers out of the building before you could even warm your seat to the tune of a 44-21 final score. Now the Packers head back to the same city to exact some revenge. Each team is loaded with star players; quarterbacks Aaron Rodgers and Matt Ryan are recognizable and if you are a fantasy football player, chances are high you have someone you are counting on in what should be a game loaded with offensive fireworks.

So when we are looking for something to drink with a game that mass appeal to both the casual fan and the die-hard, we need to keep things simple. We want our beverage to taste good and be interesting, but we also don't need something to contemplate or analyze. Since Wisconsin and Georgia aren't wine country powerhouses, wine won't be in the equation. There are some fine distilleries in each state, but neither has strong enough nationwide distribution where I can make a recommendation for you to find easily. By default, we go to the old-school traditional pairing of football and beer.

Wisconsin has a long brewing history, thanks to German immigrants settling in the state and bringing their beer-producing knowledge to 1840s America. Within each town there was some kind of brewery/brewpub, but as quickly as business grew, Prohibition and The Great Depression closed the doors on many establishments. However, one brewery that managed to survive it all was Stevens Point Brewery. Located a two-hour drive northwest of Milwaukee, it was able to cope with Prohibition by manufacturing soft drinks and sodas, plus beverages known as "near beer" during the Dark Ages of alcohol production. Stevens Point has been in business for 160 years, but it wasn't until 1990 that it made its first sale outside the state of Wisconsin, which was their flagship Point Special Lager. By 2004, distribution expanded throughout the Midwest and demand for more products rose. Today, Stevens Point makes a fantastic range of solid-to-outstanding beers and non-alcoholic sodas that are worth trying when you see them.

When it comes to beers from Georgia, I had no experience with them until I took my first trip to Chattanooga, Tennessee. With a really cool downtown and waterfront area that is becoming quite the food and drink destination, Chattanooga has access to so many beers and spirits made by craft producers throughout the south. So when I walked into a Chattanooga grocery store for the first time and saw a display of beers from Atlanta's Sweetwater Brewing Company, I was intrigued and picked up a few. SweetWater produced its first beer back on April 20th of 1997, the 420 Pale Ale. It didn't take long for word to get out about how good their beers were, leading to quick growth at a time when craft beers were really making a name for themselves. Winning an award for Best Small Brewery at the Great American Beer Festival made a major impact as brewery expansion was needed to meet demand. In just 20 years, SweetWater established itself as one of the top craft brewers not just in the American South, but nationwide.

Trust me...I am not overlooking the wealth of craft brewers located in Wisconsin and Georgia. However, the best place to start if you are looking to get each state under your beer-drinking belt is to go with the breweries with the greatest amount of access. Stevens Point and SweetWater can do just that for you. Here are two brews that taste good, have great balance, and don't require a lot of thought while you are watching the game on Sunday.

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Stevens Point Beyond the Pale IPA ($10/6-pack): Tropically fruity with a touch of maltiness to balance the refreshing quality and the hoppiness of the beer. 6.5% abv means you aren't rocketing through these beers, but it if the game is that interesting you will be taking it slow anyway.

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SweetWater 420 Extra Pale Ale ($10/6-pack): This golden ale is very aromatic with floral and earthy notes. It is a mouthwatering brew that will make you want to keep the salty snacks coming as you enjoy the game. 5.7% abv, which is on the lower end of the craft beer alcohol spectrum...as long as you aren't driving after the game is over, grab an extra one.

September 14, 2017 /Tony Ambrosini
Wisconsin, Georgia, Beer
NFL Drinking Schedule
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The quiet town of Dogliani has vineyards planted exclusively with one grape variety, and it is our subject of today's Fun To Say, Fun To Drink segment. Image credit: Langhe.net

The quiet town of Dogliani has vineyards planted exclusively with one grape variety, and it is our subject of today's Fun To Say, Fun To Drink segment. Image credit: Langhe.net

Fun To Say, Fun To Drink: Dolcetto

September 12, 2017 by Tony Ambrosini in Fun To Say Fun To Drink
I spent plenty of time honing my skills by coming to trade events hosted here by Vias Imports. Image credit: Marriott

I spent plenty of time honing my skills by coming to trade events hosted here by Vias Imports. Image credit: Marriott

It's been a little while since I took the time to shine the spotlight on a grape for you to be introduced to in your wine-drinking adventures. As always, I try to tie these wines into some of my own experiences, and today will be no different. Let me take you to my early days of trying to figure out Italian wine. One of the first things I did when making the change from the tech sector to the alcohol business was to find opportunities to pour wines at trade shows. If there would ever be opportunities to get the combined practical experiences of wine service and knowledge, working a grand portfolio tasting for an importer or distributor would be the perfect place to do it (if you are thinking of getting into the industry, I recommend you do the same).

So twice a year, I would head to New York City's Marriott Marquis to pour wines for Vias Imports, an outstanding importer of (predominantly) Italian wines. Much of my experience with them would be in northern Italy, where I was hit with an incredible array of long-lived wines, unique local varieties, and some interesting cultural crossover with border countries like Austria, Croatia, and France. Yet there will always be one day that will stick out in my mind when I think of these days working a table for five hours straight: my meeting with winemaker Orlando Pecchenino.

Spending five hours with Orlando Pecchenino shaped my understanding of winemaking, in general and Dolcetto, in particular. Image credit: Tom Hyland

Spending five hours with Orlando Pecchenino shaped my understanding of winemaking, in general and Dolcetto, in particular. Image credit: Tom Hyland

I found out I was assigned to work with Pecchenino mere minutes before the show started. I spent a lot of time researching his wines, along with the wines of fellow Piemontese producer Elvio Cogno. Anytime I can have access to a winemaker of premier products, I am going to make the most of my time learning from him or her. I listened to Pecchenino talk about his vineyards and how they are organized. I learned why he plants one grape variety in a block of vineyards and others elsewhere. I got to understand how he determines ageability of wines made from grapes in specific vineyard blocks. While it was great to nerd out to all of this, the thing that really stood out that afternoon was his passion for a single grape variety: Dolcetto [dole-CHAY-toe].

The only thing missing from this picture is a glass of Dolcetto. Image credit: Martha Stewart

The only thing missing from this picture is a glass of Dolcetto. Image credit: Martha Stewart

Dolcetto is a very popular wine in the Piedmont area of Italy. While Nebbiolo gets all the praise and Barbera is the workhorse, Dolcetto is the choice for the local drinking establishments with large plates of antipasti and other casual meals. It makes wines with very deep color with some examples almost looking like blue ink in your glass. Dolcetto might mean "little sweet one," but these wines are not made into a sweet style; they are bold, aromatic, and finish very dry, but are fruity with a slight tannic/bitter edge to them. The most likely appellation you will encounter with Dolcetto wines is "Dolcetto d'Alba," which you will find from many Barolo and Barbaresco producers as the Dolcetto vineyards will overlap these communes. Since Dolcetto grapes can ripen very quickly, a Piedmont wine producer might plant Dolcetto grapes at higher altitude than their Nebbiolo grapes (destined for Barolo, for instance) to slow down ripening and help preserve what little inherent acidity the grape has.

While Alba has some recognition for Dolcetto, other grapes like Barbera and Nebbiolo can thrive there to make quality wines. On the other hand, the nearby small town of Dogliani is exclusively devoted to Dolcetto in Piedmont. Producers in Dogliani might own vineyards outside the area to make Barolo, Barbaresco, and Barbera-based wines, but the focus is on Dolcetto here. With Dolcetto wines from Alba being fragrant and approachable in youth, Dogliani wines are more powerful and structured, many of which hold incredible aging potential. In fact, at the event with Orlando Pecchenino, he opened a magnum of his entry-level stainless steel-fermented "San Luigi" that was a decade old and I can only explain the flavor as red and black cherries wrapped in leather and Italian herbs. It was incredible. I can only imagine what his oak-aged "Siri d'Jermu" (12 months in large oak barrel) and "Bricco Botti" (2 years in old oak barrel) would taste like after 10 years in bottle.

Dolcetto offers so much for your senses, showing itself in many styles. If you have some cash laying around to spend on wine, I highly encourage you to try Pecchenino's three Dolcetto wines as a flight; it will run you close to $100 for the three wines. But if the budget is tighter, or you can't get access to the whole range, I have three wines for you to try that you should be able to find at your local shop.

G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d'Alba ($15): A perfect intro to the grape, this Dolcetto is loaded with blackberries and smoked meat flavor with just a touch of tannins and pleasant bitter edge on the finish.

Elio Grasso Dolcetto d'Alba dei Grassi ($19): An outstanding Barolo producer, this is a great way to get to know Grasso's powerful styles. Deep purple, almost opaque in the glass, this is very full-bodied with a ripe plum fruit that is similar to New World Merlot's flavor and plushness. However, the herbaceous and peppery notes are the major difference here with noticeable tannins.

Pecchenino Dogliani San Luigi ($22): This has to be in your lineup to get to know Dogliani. Stainless steel fermented, the wine has lively cherry flavors with violet, rose, and smoke. Acidity and tannin are more noticeable compared to the other two wines. Finishes savory, but fresh. 

September 12, 2017 /Tony Ambrosini
Italy, Piedmont, Dolcetto
Fun To Say Fun To Drink
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I know you love this stuff, Pumpkin Spice People. But I have something else for you that will get you excited for some fall drinking. Image credit: Healthful Pursuit

I know you love this stuff, Pumpkin Spice People. But I have something else for you that will get you excited for some fall drinking. Image credit: Healthful Pursuit

Cognac Is My Pumpkin Spice

September 08, 2017 by Tony Ambrosini

Up here in New England, if you can believe it, leaves have already started to fall. A couple of storms ripped through town and took the muggy heat with them as they left. Even though it is not officially autumn, it sure feels like it now.

Just...no. The craze has gone too far.

Just...no. The craze has gone too far.

And as the fall season takes effect, oftentimes well before it does, the pumpkin spice folks start getting very excited for said flavors to infiltrate every food and drink imaginable. Pumpkin spice is an option in every coffee drink available. And syrup. And Peanut butter. And waffles. How about yogurt pretzels, tea, and chocolate. Pumpkin spice is in your beer and Jell-O pudding. Hell, it's even in the things you don't eat: candles, soaps, perfumes, and so on.

Here's a hot take for you: I'm not into ANY of the above, especially in my coffee. This is also not a criticism of you if you are a pumpkin spice lover; eat and drink what tastes good to you, I am all for that. However, you know what my job is for my profession and here at Flight School. I am here to show you a beverage that you may not have given consideration to or perhaps forgot about. So for all you pumpkin spice champions out there, I have something for you that I absolutely love at this time of year: Cognac

Yes...Cognac! This is MY pumpkin spice. While it is something I like to use in cocktails such as a Sidecar year-round, in the fall I am all about sipping this spirit of power and delicacy. It's not an easy spirit to generalize, but fine aged examples of Cognac give me dried orange, apricot, apple, and figs fruit flavors. With increased age, Cognac becomes more savory and earthy, all while preserving delicate floral notes that give Cognac its finesse and elegance. Accompanying flavors and aromas give you the range of baking spices you love in that pumpkin spice latte: cinnamon, cloves, nutmeg, ginger, and anise. Throw in a little pipe tobacco and dead leaves, and you have all the smells of fall in one glass!

The regions of Cognac. Image credit: Cognac Expert Blog

The regions of Cognac. Image credit: Cognac Expert Blog

Additionally, if you are a wine-lover and you have never tried Cognac before, give it a shot; this type of brandy is actually a distilled white wine! The region of Cognac is located north of Bordeaux, whose vineyards almost form concentric circles as it spreads from the central heartland and top area of production. Each region and choice of grape variety brings something different to the final spirit. For example, Grande and Petit Champagne (not to be confused with the sparkling wine region of Champagne) give Cognac the combination of floral notes and ageability. Fins Bois is fruity, with faster maturing spirits. Borderies is rich, earthy and full-bodied. When it comes to grapes, Ugni Blanc (also known as Trebbiano in Italy) is a popular choice as it provides high acid necessary for quality distillate, as well as floral, spicy, and fresh-baked pastry aromas. Two other grapes, Folle Blanche and Colombard, provide body and depth of flavor, along with additional acidity and intense aromatics.

As for barrel aging, which is required to produce Cognac, here are some helpful labeling terms and their definitions.

  • VS or ***: Minimum of 2 years

  • VSOP: Minimum of 4 years

  • Napoleon: Minimum of 6 ½ years

  • XO: Starting with 2016 vintage, Mininum of 10 years (previously 7 years minimum)

  • Hors d’Age: For very old Cognacs, usually an age statement (as in Scotch whisky)

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Now let's get down to business. Let's hook you up with a flight of the three most popular styles of Cognac: VS, VSOP, and XO. It often pays to try these three styles from one producer to see the effect of age, but I will share three different producers for you to seek out that offer outstanding quality. When you are done with this flight, you will be saying it with me: Cognac is my pumpkin spice.

Camus VS Cognac ($30): Fruity and floral. Lively, but mellow on the palate. This is a great way to get introduced to Cognac. Use this as part of a cocktail, or if it is still warm in your location, this will be great on the rocks.

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Thomas Hine Fine Champagne Cognac VSOP ($55): "Fine Champagne Cognac" means all the Cognac comes from the Grande Champagne and Petit Champagne regions, with Grande Champagne making up over 50% of the blend. Rich with a creamy texture, it is fruity with cloves, nutmeg, and ginger spices.  

Delamain XO Pale & Dry ($100): Powerful and deep, with dried figs, vanilla, smoke, and the entire range of baking spices, but still retains an orange blossom character and fragrance that is hard to achieve from a Cognac subjected to extended aging. A special bottle!

September 08, 2017 /Tony Ambrosini
Brandy, Cognac
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What You Are Drinking For Sunday Night Football Week 1

September 07, 2017 by Tony Ambrosini in NFL Drinking Schedule

The glamour and glitz of New York and Dallas are overshadowed by a strong community brewery in Brooklyn and a humble distillery 95 miles south of "Big D" in Waco. Image credits (L-R): Business Insider, D Magazine, Brooklyn Brewery, The Beer Haul

You (hopefully) just read my in-depth analysis of the teams playing in tonight's NFL Kickoff game, and what you can drink from the respective cities/regions involved. I finish up the Opening Day special with the two teams playing on Sunday Night, which will be the norm for this series; I would be here all day and night if I tried to come up with recommendations for every game of the season!

Where Sunday's score will be settled this week in prime time. Image credit: Dallas Cowboys

Where Sunday's score will be settled this week in prime time. Image credit: Dallas Cowboys

The first Sunday night game that counts in the 2017 standings is being played by two teams Eagles fans wish would be wiped off the face of God's green earth: the New York Giants and the Dallas Cowboys. These are two teams that drive massive ratings anytime they are on television (to the chagrin of the Eagles fan) and hail from two states that are booming in all three phases of alcoholic beverages: beer, wine, and spirits. It's not going to be an easy decision.

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The Giants call themselves New York, but play in New Jersey, so I have been given some leeway with where I can choose from. However, I am going to stick to my place of birth for the New York/New Jersey choice. I was born in pre-trendy Brooklyn, New York that looks nothing like it does today. When Brooklyn Brewery first opened for business 1988, the goal was to revive the brewing scene in New York City that was hit hard by both a hop shortage and then Prohibition. Co-founder Steve Hindy took the approach of donating his brews to local events, mostly in creative arts like music, theater, and museums, but also in other business launches, according to their web site. The foundation was formed through ties to the Brooklyn community and spread from there. Today, you can find Brooklyn beers on the shelves nationally, with a killer range of products.

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For the Dallas area drink of choice I head south to Waco, where Balcones Distilling is located. I had made mention of their Texas Single Malt Whisky in the past, but never really went into great detail about the company. Balcones got started in an old welding building in 2008, knocking down walls, bringing in copper stills and started distilling by 2009. The goal was simple: make authentic Texas whisky (note the lack of 'e' in whisky, sort of an homage to the Old World), where malted barley plays a key role in their products as it does in Scotch whisky production. However, the hot days in Texas offer an aging environment different from Scotland, where the spirit matures in barrel faster, leading to a different flavor profile. Balcones also uses corn in their products as is common in Bourbons from Kentucky, but sourcing in the American Southwest leads to a different flavor from Kentucky Bourbon. In a mere nine years, Balcones has put itself on the map as a fantastic whisky producer with distinct products.

So I'll be honest: I am a Giants fan. I will be sitting on the couch rooting for my team with beer in hand, but in a showing of support for the greater good of alcoholic beverages, I will recommend a Balcones whisky for you and I to enjoy...it's just really good and impossible to ignore! Here's what you (yes, you too, Eagles fans!) are drinking Sunday night:

Brooklyn Brewery Oktoberfest ($10/6-pack): Malty and creamy, but balanced with the right amount of hops. It's like drinking a loaf of dark, crusty bread with a touch of baking spice. Enjoyable on a cool, late-summer night.

Balcones Brimstone ($70): This is a deep, bold, unique whisky that imparts an incredible smokiness thanks to a proprietary process using local Texas scrub oak. Tobacco, red chiles, tea, and a flavor I can only describe as "Texas BBQ rub" based on black pepper with a long savory finish. If you are a fan of strong, upfront flavors and aromas in your whisky (I am looking at you, IPA beer drinkers), this is one to sample!

 

September 07, 2017 /Tony Ambrosini
New York, Texas, Beer, Whisky
NFL Drinking Schedule
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Kicking Off A New Season Of Drinking

September 06, 2017 by Tony Ambrosini in NFL Drinking Schedule

From urban revitalization to quaint villages, there is a stark contrast between the two regions of Western Missouri and Coastal New England. Image credits (L-R): Lawnstarter, MysticSeaport.org, VisitKC, Wikipedia

Editor's Note: The author is a huge professional football fan and is about to make mention of this sport in a new weekly series. Fear not, non-football fans; the focus is on the aspects of drinking delicious alcoholic beverages from all across America.

I am entering my favorite part of the year: the humid summer weather will be going away, my kids are back at school, and the football season is getting underway. When the calendar flips to September, the big red wines become more frequent than white wines, and the spirits cabinet morphs from Tequila and rum to Scotch and brandy. My beer preferences change from the refreshing wheat ales to hearty stouts. Despite all my efforts to convince you that there is no need for "seasonal" drinking, guess what? I still do it...and I don't care. With that in mind, today I debut a new series revolving around the teams playing on NBC's Sunday Night Football. Since Week 1 has kicked off every year on a Thursday night since 2002, I will be including the Thursday night game in my opening post. 

Gillette Stadium: the site where the opening conflict gets resolved.

Gillette Stadium: the site where the opening conflict gets resolved.

2017's opener gives us the Kansas City Chiefs and the Super Bowl Champion New England Patriots. Aside from outstanding barbecue, some of my favorite items coming out of Kansas City is the beers of Boulevard Brewing Company. The founder of the brewery, John McDonald, was a carpenter by trade, but he drew inspiration for what he was about to build from a European trip in 1984. After sampling many Belgian-style ales from overseas, he was ready to turn his dream into reality. McDonald built his brewery in an old brick building on Southwest Boulevard (where the brewery takes its name from). By 1989, the first keg of Boulevard Pale Ale was ready. 

Thanks to word of mouth, beer-lovers soon discovered how good McDonald's beers were. The company flourished so much, Boulevard outgrew that old brick building by 2004. An expansion of the brewery and addition of state-of-the-art equipment was part of the revitalization of this Kansas City neighborhood. Today, Boulevard boasts an impressive lineup of brews, whether they are available year-round or in limited releases.

For the New England beverage of choice, well I have many states and cities to choose from, with anything from New Haven north and east all the way up to Maine. I do realize that the craft brewing scene is unbelievable throughout New England, but with the weather still a bit muggy and warm lately I will give you a rum to enjoy!

Back when I did some events for a private club in New London, I remember being introduced to filmmaker Bailey Pryor, who produced The Real McCoy: The Legend of Bill McCoy and the Rum War at Sea. In a nutshell, it was the story of a rum-runner during the Prohibition Era, constantly beating the authorities in the spirits trade, all while gaining such a well-regarded reputation for providing uncut spirits, the buyer always knew he was receiving "The Real McCoy." It's a fascinating piece, and if you have about an hour to check it out, you should click the link above.

Pryor worked with Richard Seale, Master Distiller at Foursquare Distillery in Barbados, to develop a rum that could live up to the name "The Real McCoy." While the distillery is down in the Caribbean, the company operates out of Mystic, Connecticut, offering a range of rums that includes 3 Year, 5 Year, and 12 Year age statements. Certainly great for mixing cocktails, I chose one that I really enjoy sipping on its own. 

So who do you have...Kansas City or New England? No matter who you root for, you can't go wrong with either of these two beverages. Stay tuned for Part 2, which includes what to drink for the Giants-Cowboys game. Cheers!

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Boulevard Brewing Company Tank 7 Farmhouse Ale ($13/4-pack): When I went to Florida on vacation this summer, it seemed as though all of the restaurants in or near the theme parks had Boulevard's Tank 7 Farmhouse Ale. So after spending a week in Disney World passing on Tank 7 every time, we went to Universal Studios Orlando only to see this beer on our lunch menu at Cowfish. I was happy to have finally tried it; citrusy and lively, Tank 7 has some body and richness (at 8.5% abv) to it, but it finishes bone-dry and made me want to eat everything in the restaurant. Boulevard also has a "Great Eight" variety pack, which includes Tank 7 and three other beers from the Smokestack Series (The Calling Double IPA, Tell-Tale Tart Sour Ale, and the Imperial Stout) that should cost you about $20 if you can get your hands on it.

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The Real McCoy 5 Year Old Rum ($26): A tasty range of dried fruits (mango, pineapple, papaya) on the palate are complemented by the flavors from the ex-Bourbon casks used to mature the rum. Vanilla and brown sugar come through, but the finish is nutty and spicy...it's like drinking French toast! 

September 06, 2017 /Tony Ambrosini
Missouri, Connecticut, Beer, Rum
NFL Drinking Schedule
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How do those bubbles get into your high-quality sparkling wines? It takes a lot of work, perhaps more than you think.

How do those bubbles get into your high-quality sparkling wines? It takes a lot of work, perhaps more than you think.

A True Labor Of Love

September 04, 2017 by Tony Ambrosini

You may have noticed that my post count has dwindled over the last couple of weeks. School has already begun here in Connecticut, yet we are still trying to squeeze every bit of summer in that we can. However, I have also been using the time to plan all sorts of great events, classes, and casual tastings during the autumn months.

That brings me to this past Saturday, where we sent summer off in style by tasting a range of sparkling wines. Parents of school-aged children toasted the various educational facilities taking our kids for another 182 days of our year. Others simply raised a glass to what was a very fun summer in town.

The sparkling wines we tasted all had something in common: all wines were made in the Traditional Method of sparkling wine production. What is that, you ask? In its most basic form, it is the following:

  1. Ferment a base wine in a vat
  2. Re-ferment the wine inside of a bottle
  3. Age the wine with the spent yeast cells (the lees)
  4. Remove the lees from the bottle
  5. Add appropriate sweetness (if desired)
  6. Bottle the wine under pressure

Looks easy, right? Well, I guess when we break it down into six steps, I suppose it does. Truthfully, there is so much more to making a sparkling wine via the Traditional Method. Let's break down each step:

Fermenting a base wine might be the simplest task on here, but even then to achieve the best base wine a winemaker needs some things to work in his/her favor. Grapes need to be high in acid; this is the reason sparkling wine is so refreshing when you sip it. When acidity and bubbles come together, your palate wakes up instantly. Wines low in acid taste flat and boring. If a winemaker is making a non-vintage sparkling wine, it needs to be a consistent product, meaning it should taste the same every time you buy it. Winemakers define a "house style" by blending wines from the most recent harvest with reserve stocks of wine of varying ages.

Next, that blended wine goes into bottles along with the liqueur de tirage, which is a concoction of yeast, sugar, and wine that leads to refermentation in the bottles. The carbon dioxide given off by the yeasts during this process is captured in the bottle and that's where your bubbles come from. This is how they do it in Champagne, Cava, and many New World Sparkling wines. "Crémants," which are essentially sparkling wines made in France that follow Champagne's model but don't come from the Champagne region, use this method for bubbles, too.

After this stage, it is time to age the wine on the lees, which have basically drowned themselves in the alcohol they created. The longer the wine ages on the lees, the more toasty and savory notes develop. There are different requirements laid out for specific regions. Non-vintage Champagne requires a minimum of 15 months bottle aging, while vintage examples must spend at least three years in bottle. In practice, many Champagne houses will exceed those minimums. Cava is required to age only nine months (as in the Crémants of France), Cava Reserva specifies a minimum of 15 months (as in non-vintage Champagne), and Cava Gran Reserva requires 30 months minimum (approaching the level of vintage Champagne as far as aging goes).

These metal cages are gyropalettes doing their jobs of getting the yeasts into the bottle necks.

These metal cages are gyropalettes doing their jobs of getting the yeasts into the bottle necks.

Once the aging is done, it's time to get the yeasts out of the bottle. Traditionally, the bottles were stored in "pupitres," which look like peg boards with bottles sticking out of them. Over time, the bottles would be "riddled", or manually turned to allow the yeasts cells to slide into the neck of each bottle. This is a time-consuming process that costs the producer money. In the 1970s, the gyropalette was developed to handle riddling in a more efficient way, accommodating about 500 bottles at a time. From here the bottle necks are frozen to turn the yeasts into a solid plug that can be ejected from the bottle. I think the best way to illustrate the process is to just show you with a video:

What you are seeing after the frozen plugs are removed is the addition of sweetened wine (the dosage) that will dictate the sweetness level of the entire bottle of wine (Brut, Demi-Sec). If no sweetened wine is added, the sparkling wine will be labeled "Brut Nature" or "Brut Zero", a bone-dry product.

So there you have it. It's not an easy process to make a sparkling wine by Traditional Method, but the end result is persistent bubbles, a creamy texture, and a liveliness that can't be matched by other methods of production. We sampled five wines this past Saturday afternoon of all different styles, but all are delicious in their own ways.

Saturday's Lineup!

Saturday's Lineup!

Parés Baltà Cava Brut ($14)

This winery practices organic and biodynamic farming, leading to vibrant wines made from the traditional Spanish grape varieties of Macabeo, Parellada, and Xarel-lo. Green apples, lemon zest, and a touch of earthiness. Makes for a great sipper on its own or as the base for a Mimosa.


Paul Mas Cote Mas Crémant de Limoux Brut Rosé ($16)

Located in the eastern foothills of the Pyrenees, Limoux has a long and storied history as a sparkling wine region in Southern France. This dry, pink bubbly is loaded with blood orange and tangerine flavors and has a pleasant bitter note on the finish that adds to the complexity of a customer favorite at the store.


Gruet Brut ($17)

Who would have known that the deserts of New Mexico would be suitable for quality sparkling wine production? The Gruet family discovered this fact on a trip to the American Southwest in the early 1980s, and they set up shop near Albuquerque. 24 months aging on the lees in this flagship product is balanced by ripe nectarine and tropical fruit flavors and a full-bodied softness on the palate.


Marie-Pierre Manciat Crémant de Bourgogne Brut ($23)

A fine sparkling wine made from 100% Chardonnay in sustainable vineyards. Floral with orange and lemon peel aromas, peachy on the palate, and very lively with persistent bubbles. Killer value. I wrote of this in Building a Case for a Few More Dollars


Ayala Champagne Brut Majeur ($39)

Champagne is not cheap; it can sometimes be a challenge to score something for less than $40, but here is a non-vintage example the delivers well beyond that price. White peaches and flowers are on the nose with fresh baked brioche and savory/smoky flavors on the palate. Long and fruity on the finish.

 

September 04, 2017 /Tony Ambrosini
Champagne, Sparkling Wine
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