There's a part of the winemaking world that deserves the amount of love it is getting seemingly by the minute. Even as we wait for summer weather to really get here, I have the perfect unique grape variety that deserves your attention on these impending warm days. While Sicily and Southern Italy tend to receive the greatest accolades in Mediterranean Europe due to a great mix of authenticity and value, venture farther east to Greece's tiny island of Santorini for something totally different: Assyrtiko [uh-SEER-tee-koh]. 

Jeez, Tony...you are really diving deep here, aren't you? What are you doing? Are you really going to have me digging around for a wine name that looks like something I pulled at random from a bag of Scrabble tiles?

Yes, I am! That's why you are here. You want to know what tastes good; I'm here to point you in the right direction. Assyrtiko not only tastes good, but it's a grape with an interesting story.

Assyrtiko is a white grape variety you only see in Greece; it thrives best in the volcanic ash-laden soils of Santorini, covering 65-70% of the vineyard area there. Volcanic ash: a thing that sounds like nothing should grow in it! Aside from the soil composition, Santorini's climate is hot and very windy for a large part of the growing season. Many grapes can barely survive an unforgiving environment like this, yet Assyrtiko not only survives, but it also finds a way to retain its acidity, leading to fresh, vibrant wines. One of the most innovative ways the growers in Santorini learned to combat the harsh environment is to train the vines into a basket formation, shielding the grapes from the hot winds, yet still allowing good air flow to keep vines cool.

Dry wines from Santorini show some good texture and body, but that zing of lemony acidity and touch of salinity balances things out. Add in a minerally/stony/earthy note that tends to show up, and you have a wine that's great to serve with shellfish or white fish like halibut. Those flavors of Greek cuisine that include the staples of olives, cucumber, fresh garlic, lemon juice, parsley, and yogurt make Assyrtiko an awesome match, even if you had these on lamb (a meat often associated with red wines). It's not easy to make a comparison to another grape variety that is well-known; perhaps it resembles some of the native southern Italian white varieties (Greece and Southern Italy do have a history together), but honestly Assyrtiko is like nothing else. That's what makes it an awesome grape variety. If you need more detailed perspective from someone who has lived in Greece and has greater experience with the grape (and Greek wine in general) than I do, look no further than this guy.

For the record, you can also find Assyrtiko made as a Vin Santo-style sweet wine, though here in the U.S. not in large quantities. Assyrtiko grapes are traditionally laid out on straw mats in a ventilated room to allow water to evaporate and grape sugars to concentrate. The grapes (with two other local varieties of Athiri and Aidani) are then crushed, fermented (with residual sugar remaining), and bottled. Another barrel-aged style can be made after addition of an alcoholic distillate (a la Port production). These are rich, golden nectars that are worth seeking out if you come across them.

But for now, chances are you will find at least one of these three wines and you can taste for yourself. If you really like to explore, find these. Don't see it? Ask your retailer to score one for you. Experience the distinct, unique flavor of Assyrtiko!

Santo Winery Santorini ($16): Packed with lemons and minerals, this has a little floral note and finishes bone dry. This cries out for shrimp or scallops.

Vassaltis Vineyards Santorini ($22): This one shows more grapefruit and nectarines plus a fuller body than the Santo Santorini. Here's where your sturdier white fish will come into play.

Domaine Sigalas Santorini ($25): Loaded with a range of citrus and stone fruit flavors, plenty of minerals, and a salty kick at the end. I want this with lamb and Greek yogurt sauce in a pita with plenty of herbs, as the wine would make a great contrast pairing with the food.